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PAS pump strip down How to

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  • PAS pump strip down How to

    Power Steering Pump Strip down, inspection and seal kit replacement.

    The pulley

    1)Remove all 3 bolts on the pulley, the pulley is seized/sweated onto the hub of the triangular coupling, DO NOT try to press it off cold, you WILL destroy the pulley. Apply a short intense flame to the pulley and at the same time a very small amount of pressure in a press/ Hub puller. And the pulley will come off (I will be removing the hub later to service the gland and High pressure pump).

    High pressure side
    (Brake assistance)


    2)With the pulley off this gives you access to the bracket bolts and High pressure pump. Remove the bracket taking note exactly where each bolt goes.
    3)Use a Metal marker and mark lines across the body of the unit so it goes back together in exactly the same orientation. (this is important as oil galleries line up inside
    4)Remove the 4 x bolts on the end of the pump behind the triangular pulley (see pic)
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Graham; 18th April 2005, 21:36.
    Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

  • #2
    This will separate the high pressure pump away from the low pressure pump, the galleries in the low pressure side on the left line up with the little hole which feeds the high pressure pump on the right. The galleries feed both high and low pressure parts to the unit.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Graham; 18th April 2005, 21:37.
    Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

    Comment


    • #3
      5)Now the thrust washer can be seen. I will measure end float this week and work out what size should be in there. This pump had a 0.98mm washer in with a small amount of float, also look at what material it is made from as it is a friction device. (LATER ON I WILL WORK OUT EXACTLY WHAT SIZES SHOULD BE IN THERE) The rotating cam which consists of a sweated on brass lobe with a High tensile ring which is free to spin on the brass lobe and push the pistons of the high pressure pump.
      Attached Files
      Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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      • #4
        Here is a view into the high pressure side:
        Attached Files
        Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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        • #5
          Low Pressure side (High flow-Steering)

          6)Now remove the 4 M8 bolts on the low pressure side and carefully split the end plate off the low pressure pump this plate contains a speedy sleeve type plain bearing pressed in to control shaft movement. Now you will see the low pressure vane pump.::
          Attached Files
          Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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          • #6
            7)With the vane pump exposed (see photo below) you need to mark up the components so they go back exactly the same using a PERMANENT MARKER not a metal marker as a permanent marker leaves a 0.0001mm layer on the metal (which wont affect anything) where as Metal marker leaves a thick paint (Which could seize it up) - Clearance and tolerances are a real issue here.
            Attached Files
            Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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            • #7
              8)The 2 pegs on the rotor housing are loose but if you hold them right they will help in lifting out the rotor housing. Now the rotor with the 10 vanes can be lifted out.- SOME OF THE VANES WILL FALL OUT-make sure they go back in the right way with straight edge out, and the edge with the notch cut facing into the rotor. So you should now have components looking like them in this pic
              Attached Files
              Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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              • #8
                9)Now the far end plate with the ports can be lifted out of the main body, when out and turned around you can see the set shape seal which consists of 2 parts the rubber seal and a plastic anti extrusion ring. Make sure you get these the right way around, as the seal will not work if they are the wrong way around, see pic below
                Attached Files
                Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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                • #9
                  10) Following on from STEP 9 of the you will see a small cap which if you squeeze down will feel the tension of the spring, with your finger on top of the cap carefully prise out the cap which is only held in by friction (4 tangs).
                  11) Now you will have a spool with a high pressure relief valve inside. (for when your on full lock). This is as far as I advise going, as the relief valve might be calibrated, and stripping down could alter its setting Your components should look like those in photo below:
                  Attached Files
                  Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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                  • #10
                    13) Re fit the relief valve and press the cap back in. It doesn’t look like it has a good hold but is captive by the vane pump end plate
                    Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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                    • #11
                      14)Replace all o-rings and seals in the vane pump and re build this unit making sure that it is spotlessly clean with a bit of Goo200 fluid on build up. Make sure when you re-fit the rotor that none of the vanes fall out. (Oil will help hold them in place), and the rotor lines up with the shaft. Loose vanes will spell hasta la vista to the pump as it will just crunch up. And either snap a belt or shear the shaft inside, or strip the splines off the shaft.
                      Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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                      • #12
                        High pressure side and gland

                        15)Following the previous procedure to split the high pressure unit from the low pressure unit.
                        16)Using an Impact screw driver undo the 2 cross head plugs on the outer casing, (see Photo in step 1) these will be very tight, so make sure the unit is clamped in a vice (with soft jaws). Take care when removing the plugs as there is a spring underneath and it could fire the spring guide, which is inside the spring, away.
                        Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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                        • #13
                          16)Once the spring and spring guide is out, the piston should fall out of the bore underneath the spring, it might need a gentle tap on a wooden block to get the piston to slide out as the oil can hold it (repeat this procedure for both sides). Remove the O-Ring from each end. (I believe these are B.S. 016-Viton- About 3p each). Now you should have two lots of components like the ones below (ignoring the shaft and components on the left
                          Attached Files
                          Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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                          • #14
                            17)Set up the triangular shaped coupling up like picture Below or use a suitable hub puller with the unit clamped in a vice, and apply a sustained heat from a oxy propane/acetylene torch, the heat needs to get into the hub faster than the heat getting from the hub into the shaft so the hub will expand quicker than the shaft releasing its 0.001” interference nip so the press/hub puller will be easier. Allow the hub to cool naturally, do not quench it, as it may warp, or crack.
                            Attached Files
                            Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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                            • #15
                              18)Now push the shaft through the gland (into the pump) and remove the shaft from the backside.
                              19)Remove the steel ring off the brass ring, and remove the brass ring off the shaft-they should all be loose.
                              20)Now between the gland and the cam lobe there is a second thrust washer, this measured 1.00mm (other was 0.98mm) I will work out clearances later.
                              21)Using a blunt screwdriver flick out the gland seal which is only a single lip endless oil seal moulded around a reinforcing ring and should pop out easily. Now you should components which resemble the photo below
                              Attached Files
                              Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler.--:Albert Einstein

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