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1995 Audi S2 ABY Ming Blue

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  • 1995 Audi S2 ABY Ming Blue

    I've been after another S2 for a while having sold my ABY years ago. A forum member contacted me regarding the wanted ad and I agreed to buy the 3B. Further to this, I also said that I would take the ABY as this was currently running but the MOT had expired.

    The ABY is in Ming Blue, registered 31st December 1995 and has 146K miles. The interior is black leather and the wheels are A8 Sport, or so I'm told. I do have the original Avus ones, but they look so small.

    I knew that the car came with issues and I looked forward to getting stuck in. The car was delivered late one evening and after being given the keys from the delivery driver, I tried to start it but the car refused to start. I spoke to the owner who said that the car had never not started, so I thought, 'just my luck!'.

    This weekend I delved a little deeper and pulled the codes which came up with quite a lot, but the main one seems to be the Hall Sender. With the fuel pump working and I also looked in the tank and added a good two gallons of fresh fuel, I put the jumper into relay 208 just to double check the pump and fuel delivery. Relay 208 crumbled in my fingertips, but I had a spare and this is working fine so I thought I might as well change the sensor.

    At £75 I ordered the BOSCH unit and started to strip the front of the car and was shocked with the condition of the cambelt, so it's probably just as well it hasn't started so far. I've now ordered a new belt, idler and water pump already to fit next weekend.

    Not a brilliant picture of the car, but a good one of the cambelt!
    Last edited by steverrquattro; 20th January 2019, 19:28.
    Steve

    1990 RR 20V
    1982 SWB UR - RS2 Engine


  • #2
    OMG

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    • #3
      Just about to destroy the engine by the look of it, good job ya checked it out

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      • #4
        Looks like you got there just in time!
        No start might just be old petrol? Since they started putting ethanol in petrol it don't last long at all. Drain it out and put some shell V power in
        Nothelle S2 Avant in restoration

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        • #5
          Tesco Momentum

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          • #6
            woah!! **** was about to hit the fan. lucky you got it in time.

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            • #7
              Been there for 146k miles!

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              • #8
                Holy moly, on par with my old belt

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                • #9
                  I'm not going to post up every basic thing that gets done to the car as many of you will have BTDT. One thing that I did get done yesterday though, was to re-fit the gas strut on the NS. The problem was that the nut had come off the set screw, so to use the boot I had a trusty piece of wood.

                  If you partially remove the trim, including the piece that runs across the top of the headlining, you can just about get your hand in. At first it appears solid, but this is just soundproofing. Pop a little hole in it and you have limited access. Tape a washer to a nut and then tape it to your finger....and then present it to the inside of the rear quarter and then fix in the set screw. Oh and then struggle to get your finger back because you taped it to the nut!

                  Grease the female ends and then re-fit remembering to fit the clip and retaining pin.
                  Steve

                  1990 RR 20V
                  1982 SWB UR - RS2 Engine

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                  • #10
                    New timing belt kit fitted along with the hall sender and the car fired up 1st time. Started several times after that and now won't start.

                    Fuel pump is good as is the fuel. I know this because Andy squirted it all over my trainers...…. :-)

                    12V's at the injectors and the coilpacks. Fuel pump relay changed just in case.

                    A long story short, when cranking over there is no fuel pressure. We've had the G4 and G28 sensors out and cleaned. I was thinking the speed sensor, but the rev counter is working and I have assumed that if it was faulty it wouldn't? That said and if it is working, why isn't the relay pulling in for the fuel pump.

                    Any thoughts?
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by steverrquattro; 20th February 2019, 19:18.
                    Steve

                    1990 RR 20V
                    1982 SWB UR - RS2 Engine

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Put VCDS on to check for errors? Usually a good start. Is the fuel pump priming? No dodgy old 90s alarm system playing up?
                      1996 Audi S2 - 295bhp and 326lb/ft - Complete Rebuild Project

                      1994 Audi 80 - 2.0 8v (slow but reliable!)

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                      • #12
                        If it has an old Audi alarm it could well be something to do with that, as willg has pointed out. I had a no start situation with my car ( no spark ) turned out to be the immobiliser. When removing the alarm system I found there were three immobiliser circuits, ignition, fuel and starter. Might be worth a look.

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                        • #13
                          Old alarm removed by previous owner.

                          I've just found this which I'll check out tomorrow.

                          Testing a G4 is something like this: "Test the resistance between between pins 1 and 2 of the black connector end of the G4. (With the bump on the middle of connector up, the pins are, left to right, 1 ,2 and 3.) Between 1 and 2 you should have "approximately 1000 ohms".
                          If NO = replace, If YES - test between pins 1 and 3 and then 2 and 3. Both should be infinite ohms, i.e. "open", If NO = replace. If the G4 is fubar'd the engine will not start. If the engine is running when the G4 fails, it will keep running, but never start again (until you replace the G4).

                          Testing the G28 sender: Set DMM to resistance (2K ohms). Connect the leads to pins 1 and 2 (1 is on the left with the connector bump on top, 3 is on the right). Must be approximately 1000 ohms. If no, replace RPM sender. If Yes, connect the DMM between pins 1 and 3 and then 2 and 3, both must be infinite ohms (no continuity). Again, failed G28 = no start because the G28 signal is initially used by the ECU to trigger the fuel pump relay.
                          Steve

                          1990 RR 20V
                          1982 SWB UR - RS2 Engine

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by steverrquattro View Post

                            Fuel pump is good as is the fuel. I know this because Andy squirted it all over my trainers...…. :-)
                            Who knew it was going to shoot fuel out of the inlet?

                            sigpic
                            1991 Audi S2 3B - 2.5 Stroker engine
                            1997 A6 2.5TDi quattro avant - C4
                            1976 RD250E / 350LC cafe racer

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                            • #15
                              Well, RPM sensor measured 1K ohms between pins 1 & 2 whereas the Speed sensor measured infinite resistance. It also refused to come out and had to be persuaded with a punch and a hammer!

                              Attached Files
                              Steve

                              1990 RR 20V
                              1982 SWB UR - RS2 Engine

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