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1995 Audi S2 ABY Ming Blue

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  • #46
    I’ve got some stage one chips

    S2 Coupe 3B Project


    Ur quattro restoration

    S2 Avant

    Boost is the new rock and roll!
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    • #47
      Despite what you have said the vehicle should be equipped with the factory immo if its an S or T chassis number. So the key should have the transponder chip (its well hidden!), the reader coil around the ign, the seperate immo box and the B variant ecu. I understand that the key blade should have an F on it as well. From what you have said it seems to be working correctly. Usually if the start was blocked the engine would start briefly and then cut out. The immo light would flash and a code would be thrown up. Whilst its acceptable to reprogramme the original ecu chips, they usually don't like having the ecu replaced. There is a procedure to re sync a different immo ecu within the immo controller via VCDS. As the car is presumably toward the end of the production run it will be difficult to say whether the ecu is the original one or not unless you could cross ref the chassis number date with the ecu date. Usually components pre date construction so unless the ecu was obviously later than manufacture it will be difficult to say conclusively!
      Last edited by twoqu; 11th March 2019, 16:59.

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      • #48
        Reading through the PO thread linked previously there is some mention of the removal of the black plug from the bottom of the fuse box. Again I am presuming that this was to effect a repair. This would have some relevance if the repair was to the wire that feeds the coils via S32. It does seem that the black connector B (T6r) does include that wire and therefore would be a candidate to cut the supply to the coils. However you have said that there is power to the coils so again that might be coincidence.
        Whilst on the fuse box, as others have said the blue and red fuse holders should be populated as they feed the various components that you have the faults codes for and the other is the Lambda. All necessary when the engine finally starts.

        Also it mentions repairing things in the A pillar area which is where the motronic loom main earth is amongst others. That might have relevance to the low voltage/bad earth fault although that seems to have corrected itself.
        Last edited by twoqu; 11th March 2019, 17:33.

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        • #49
          Lastly, you are going to have to start eliminating things it isn't. Unfortunately it could be either an electrical or mechanical issue.
          If you are confident it is ignition related then you need to test or substitute. Firstly get some new plugs of the correct type even if they are just the cheap copper ones for testing. Keep the battery charged. Pointless having the injectors connected until you have proof of spark.
          The bad news could be either a damaged crank or cam pulley puting the hall sensor out of phase. Difficult to assess without a scope although again there is no fault code to support that. As the G40 has been replaced then thats unlikely to be at fault. Bit odd that it started ok after replacement unless it was because that the relationship between pulleys was within tolerance. Again unlikely to be the flywheel pin which is another player in this. Again you could verify this was intact.
          If the coils have power and earth then the only other signals are the ecu triggers from the various ecu pins. I think it would be difficult to interupt all 5 to act as an immo rather than as mentioned previously interupt a single wire. I believe you can test them by hooking a led test light up to the connectors from the engine loom to the coil loom. One connector will have 4 pins populated the other 3. If the led flashes when cranking we know the ecu is happy. There is the earth back on one pin for all the coils not sure where that ends up.
          In fact you could test the whole coil loom/coils by removing them and trying it on the UR temporarily. If it functions then we have eliminated a few other components.
          It's difficult to know where in the chain to investigate. Hopefully there might be a few ideas there to keep you occupied!
          Last edited by twoqu; 11th March 2019, 18:35.

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          • #50
            Awesome posts.

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            • #51
              Indeed, thanks twoqu for all of your suggestions. I will update shortly what has been eliminated.

              For now as an update, I have swapped the ECU and the only code I get now is the Speed Sensor. The car has the TFSI coilpack setup and I just want to make sure that they are on the right plugs as they have been on and off several times.

              Working from the front of the car there are five leads which disappear into the heat shrink. Coming out of the other side to this, one is the earth on the Rocker Cover, two go to connectors on the rail and the other two go to connectors which I assume use to connect to the POS amps. How to test which goes where as two of the wire lengths are almost identical.

              PS I did do a continuity check and for cylinders 1 & 2, they went to the connectors on the rail on the LHS.
              Steve

              1990 RR 20V
              1982 SWB UR - RS2 Engine

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              • #52
                How many pins are in the two connectors from the coil harness?
                How many pins are in the cars POS connectors?
                The strange thing here is the car run after the cambelt/G40 change so is obviously capable of working! Frustrating to say the least.
                Some of these coil looms consolidate all the earths on the one wire whereas on the OE there is earth to both POS.
                So the OE POS should have 4 terminals in one and 3 in the other. So the coil harness might have 4 pins in one but only 2 in the other if that makes sense.
                As it run before I guess we can rule out anyone messing around with the POS assignments.
                Due to orientation, I guess it is possible to mix the 4 and 5 coil connectors up. I believe the 5 is longer as it twists back on itself.
                Last edited by twoqu; 4th April 2019, 19:26.

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                • #53
                  twoqu,.....you the man. As soon as you mentioned about the furthest one from the front turning back on itself, I knew that there was something wrong as someone had mixed them up.

                  The car fired up on what turned out to be just two cylinders, which were labelled as 5 and 2. Through a process if elimination I swapped the remaining three until it eventually ran smoothly.

                  What a welcome back to S2 ownership this has been.
                  Steve

                  1990 RR 20V
                  1982 SWB UR - RS2 Engine

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                  • #54

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                    • #55
                      Good news mate!

                      S2 Coupe 3B Project


                      Ur quattro restoration

                      S2 Avant

                      Boost is the new rock and roll!
                      sigpic

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        Relating to the question to what coilpack goes where, here are is the information as asked by twoqu:

                        The LH connector on the rail = 3 pin.
                        The connector to the right = 2 pin.
                        The floating connector with the brown terminal = 4 pin.
                        The floating connector with the black terminal = 3 pin.

                        Can I just say' thanks' as well to everyone who has helped so far.
                        Steve

                        1990 RR 20V
                        1982 SWB UR - RS2 Engine

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                        • #57
                          The brake warning light is showing on the car and the reservoir for the Power Steering Pump is down on fluid. It looks pink in colour what is in there, but should it not be green?

                          What are the differences?
                          Steve

                          1990 RR 20V
                          1982 SWB UR - RS2 Engine

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                          • #58
                            Yes, it should be green.
                            You will have to flush out whatever is in there and replace with proper VAG pas fluid which you can still buy from your local Audi dealer.
                            Normal pas fluid attacks the seals on our cars. Hopefully you got there in time

                            Brake light could be for a number of reasons. Could just be a faulty abs sensor or dirty pick up ring. Have you got a code reader?
                            S2 Avant in restoration
                            S3 Sportback daily
                            Terrecan parts collector

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                            • #59
                              My brake warning light used to come on now and then even with all fluids at correct level I think it was a weak brake bomb. Now I have deleted the bomb you are welcome to it for postage cost, might be OK for refurb so you don't have to have your car of the road while you swap them

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                              • #60
                                Brake warning will be brake fluid level, pas fluid level or a hydraulic pressure warning. If you've got ATF in there, you need to get rid of it as it foams up with the high pressure from the pump- it can trigger the pressure warning
                                Mike

                                http://www.s2-audi.co.uk

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