Audi Coupe Quattro 2.3 20V - Czech Republic

[Tom_]

Screamer pipe fully welded and covered into titan heatwrap, the same as a downpipe. The exhaust is currently under construction, but the end part of the exhaust is missing . EMAP piping is also ready. So now have to finish the end part of the exhaust and then have to finish the intercooler piping and custom cross-member. Then hopefully will be start

[Tom_]

Currently, I am in the middle of finishing the exhaust. The downpipe is 89mm and the rest is 76mm. The above subframe section is left to do, so hopefully next week I will finish the exhaust completely and then could move on to the IC piping. IC piping will be 76mm hot side and 63 as I struggle with a space there.
Also the cross-member is almost done. Now have to add a custom snub mount bracket and some oil cooler brackets.

[Tom_]

Yesterday I tried to start newly built engine, but with no success. I have spark, I have a fuel pressure, I have oil pressure but the car wont start: little couhling and some bang from the exhaust. Will try something else tomorrow but otherwise I am a little bit lost. It was a pretty disappointing day to be honest. I knew it wont be that easy to start it for the first key switch.

[Tractor Dave]

Timing?

[K Simmonds]

As Dave say's start by double checking the cam and distributor timing.

Can you get it to fire on starting fluid? If you can then then the timing should be right but it's not firing the injectors.

[K Simmonds]

Just looked back through your thread and you've got an adjustable cam pulley, you need to to be 100% sure the timing is correct for the first start.

Not being negative, however be prepared to plumb the screamer pipe back into the exhaust, I ran one on my S2 and found the noise to be intolerable and i don't mind loud exhausts.

[Tom_]

So its alive...timing was spot in the summer when I checked. I changed cam signal position in ECU and voila.
If the screamer pipe will be too much, I will redo it into the exhaust. Will see

[K Simmonds]

That's a result, nice when it's such a simple fix.

As for screamer pipe's they're extremely noisy when the wastegate is modulating boost under load at lower RPM's, I found that the most off putting, it's a bit like a hifi system jumping from volume 1-10 rapidly and at random. Unlike exhaust gases from the turbo outlet the sound wave's coming out of a screamer pipe have nothing to dampen them down after leaving the combustion camber so they're much louder and higher pitched.

See how you get along with it, it may not bother you and it's no big deal plumbing it back into the main exhaust system.

I decided I didn't really like the noise and it gives the police a good reason to pull you over especially in town, my other consideration was horses as it's not always possible to simply burble by them off the throttle.

[Tom_]

Will see, I have no experience with screamer pipe, but downpipe always could be modified.
Anyway yesterday the car started and ran nicely (6x times), but after some minor adjustments the car wont start again, the happy moments were changed to angry ones.
Friend come look on it, and looks everything good to him, so not sure what happened.
I will go back to that initial tune what I ve done, but not sure if this helps.

If its here someone who could look on my datalog and setup in MTune, and give me some guidance or advice, it would be lovely

Edit: I got an idea what to change..so will see if this help or not

[jbrentd]

Contracts on getting her fired up! Great feeling, I'm sure.

[Tom_]

Thanks, yes, lovely feeling. Have to solve some coolant leaks and squeeking a new alternator, but so far the engine runs well even it's not fully tuned. But only hearing the engine running is perfect.
That leaking water manifold is the worst thing to leak as there is no access to the bottom bolts.
Still plenty of work ahead but I was scared of the first start and first few minutes of running.

[Tom_]

Engine is running nicely so far, but only on the stands.

I found two leaks , one around the water manifold (the worst possible) where is that triangular seal, so there is a small leak. Honestly, I cant reach those two bottom bolts there without removing the intake. Any ideas to seal this flange without removing it?

Another one leak is a clutch master cylinder, where is that plastic nipple going to.Not that rubber hose, but that rubber seal vs nipple or rubber seal itself. It is a brand new part, so I am really pissed because of that—another few-hour job. I bought a TRW clutch master cylinder. Is there any tip how to seal that clutch cylinder? or only change for another one?

[Tom_]

Here is that leaking spot. I will try to unscrew the bolts and tighten it again. Maybe it will help. Here is spot where trw clutch cylinder is leaking

[Tom_]

Clutch master cylinder is leaking badly around this seal. Could that seal be bought separately? I would say not, but I am no expert

[Tractor Dave]

The seal looks similar to the one used for the fluid bottle to master cylinder which is available. I would remove it first and see if its damaged or installed incorrectly. If its a new part i would just send it back for a replacement. Where did you buy it? Lots of fake stuff around.