1992 Audi UrS4 Avant - Ragusa Green

[UrS4boy]

Dave beat me to it!!

And I am still in my jammies!

[Bram]

Back from my holidays trip I noticed a large leak of cooling liquid somewhere behind the radiator. It all started with the main radiator fan being ON all the time, during my trips in hot France, once started (warm/cold) the car, which never happened before.

Trying to take out the IM throttle housing and make room from the bottom of the car, in order to inspect the leak, I fail to remove the front bumper of the UrS4. I already located 2 big bolts at the front of the bumper close to the license plate, but there is no movement.

Is there a description for removal of an EU UrS4 front bumper? I found instructions for UrS6 and funky USA UrS4 bumpers, but those bumpers seem to look different, with other locking bolt locations and bits. I am just used to the S2 bumper that is quite simple to handle, but this is totally different on the C4 models.

Appreciate all hints.

[UrS4boy]

...Appreciate all hints.

Have a read through this bumper post:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/116410.phtml

[Bram]

Thanks, this give some good detail. So I found the lower bolts for the bumper mounts, I simply have not yet spotted the top bolts yet

the search continues tomorrow. Hope the side brackets will loosen the bumper without too much effort......

[UrS4boy]

Thanks, this give some good detail. So I found the lower bolts for the bumper mounts, I simply have not yet spotted the top bolts yet
the search continues tomorrow. Hope the side brackets will loosen the bumper without too much effort......

The bumper just clips into the side brackets. Have a look at this (for NAmerican bumpers but it has descriptions of how to handle the side clips):

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/239435.phtml

North American side clip (Euros are similar):

[Bram]

OK, I managed to release the front bumper and saw that the cooling water pump is leaking lots of water from the bottom "wheep"-hole. I guess the pump shaft seal is shot. Will get a new one and install it hopefully soon.

Next to this I still have the rad fan always ON when ignition is turned ON (Fan on speed 2) and it goes to speed 3 when the engine starts and runs. The fan is OFF when the ignition key is not engaged.

I read here (http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64673) that rad sensors can also fail, but will they trigger the fan to turn ON all the time? Or could it be a blown fuse / or dead relay?

I read it can also be a dodgy after-run relay 324..... will this cause the fan to go ON when ignition is is turned ON and also when the engine is running? I will try to remove the 324 and see what happens. and also replace the afterrun temp sensor in the water manifold as it looks a bit dodgy.

[Bram]

Time for an update: I replaced the water pump for a new one and also replaced the radiator temp sensor. This fixed the water leaking and also the radiator fan to go on speed step 3 all the time. While the water was all out I also replaced the other water sensors in the IM and thermostat.

And while I was there also replace the long belt in front of the engine (the one driving the PS pump, Aircon Pump, etc) since that one looked really old and hardened out.
Timing belt I did not replace as it's fairly fresh and installed just 50k km ago and did'n want to take off the front pulley this time.
Also managed to replace the x-plug on the PS pump, as that one was leaking too.

All issues gone and happy driving the car again!

Spring time I will convert the UFO brakes to a HP2 setup and replace the dented downpipe with a better one, that I just bought.

[macspring]

Hi Bram,

Where are you at currently re the suspension ?

Thanks.

[Bram]

Hi Bram,

Where are you at currently re the suspension ?

Thanks.

Next year when I will convert from UFO to HP2 brake setup I will also add the sport springs (front and rear) from the UrS6 who I already have in the garage.

Makes no sense to do the suspension now and replace everything once more when converting to HP2 struts

[Thecrispynoodle]

Thanks for this info. It's helpful.

Will both front and rear levels drop by these mm numbers, or will the front be lowered a bit more than the rear?

Reason I ask is that the 1BA I have currently fitted pushes the front a few cms higher than the rear setup. See picture.

I am afraid that when I mount new lowering springs, the front will still be higher compared to the rear.........

Any thoughts on this?

Late reply - for the benefit of latecomers to this thread. The UrS cars have a body shape featuring the front wheel arch sitting approx 30mm higher than the rear. The factory springs are designed to put the door trims at an exact horizontal to the ground - meaning a bigger tyre to arch gap at the front of that 30mm. The Eibach springs lower front and rear by the same amount meaning that the 30mm difference between the two remains or best drops to 25mm. This is not to modern tastes and makes the car appear lowered at the rear but not the front. I recommend anyone going down the Eibach route to lower the front first and then decide whether to leave the rear on stock springs or budget to fit perch spacers / new damper ring slots to the Eibachs to even it back out. If you want a more slammed look then look straight to the H&R springs for the Audi 200.

[Thecrispynoodle]

Thanks for this info. It's helpful.

Will both front and rear levels drop by these mm numbers, or will the front be lowered a bit more than the rear?

Reason I ask is that the 1BA I have currently fitted pushes the front a few cms higher than the rear setup. See picture.

I am afraid that when I mount new lowering springs, the front will still be higher compared to the rear.........

Any thoughts on this?

Late reply - for the benefit of latecomers to this thread. The UrS cars have a body shape featuring the front wheel arch sitting approx 30mm higher than the rear. The factory springs are designed to put the door trims at an exact horizontal to the ground - meaning a bigger tyre to arch gap at the front of that 30mm. The Eibach springs lower front and rear by the same amount meaning that the 30mm difference between the two remains or best drops to 25mm. This is not to modern tastes and makes the car appear lowered at the rear but not the front. I recommend anyone going down the Eibach route to lower the front first and then decide whether to leave the rear on stock springs or budget to fit perch spacers / new damper ring slots to the dampers paired with the rear Eibachs to even it back out. If you want a more slammed look then look straight to the H&R springs for the Audi 200.