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Resurrection of my CQ20V

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    Indeed!

    I am tempted to 'modify' the rear setup a little to allow me to fit the later drop links, which is what I assume I have, probably just need tab with a larger hole welded on, and then do something with the anti roll bar...

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  • steve briance
    replied
    Ahh, yes they are. I didn't actually click on your links I'm afraid ​​​​​. As you have found out, for some reason the rears are a bit harder to come by and more money. No idea why as one end is the same as the fronts and the other end is a rubber bush which has to be cheaper than a ball joint?!

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    Aren't those the fronts?

    My rears have a bush one end and a joint on the other.

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  • steve briance
    replied
    Mister auto? Got a pair of these on my car. Lemforder is as close to o.e as you can get without an audi logo on it somewhere.

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F311448001306

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    Hmm, think I know how I got caught out on that one, there is only one part number on OEMPC, listing from 8B-L-003682, mine is MA, sigh.

    Pre-L:

    http://www.oemepc.com/audi/part_sing.../272767/lang/e

    Post-L:

    http://www.oemepc.com/audi/part_sing.../272767/lang/e

    Will have to look elsewhere

    Leave a comment:


  • Bowie69
    replied
    Oh, one last thing, I ordered up some drop links, some arrived, they are shorter, and the bolt holes are M10 not M8, being Autodoc I haven't bothered returning them.

    So they still knock, oh well

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    Tuesday evening, clutch started going soft when I left the house, got to where I was going with about half the travel left on the pedal.

    The drive home left me with less than in inch of meaningful travel, and a pedal that was refusing to return, or pump up.

    Got home and ordered a new master cylinder (you will see just a few posts above,I replaced the slave and pipe....), it arrived this afternoon, so fitted it this evening, took around an hour including bleeding and packing up.

    Now, the ones with keen memories will recall I replaced the master back in 2017, obviously I am not best pleased about this, but in order to get one rapidly I have had to go a Pagid cylinder, the same as last time. Here's hoping I get more than two years out of it.

    I disassembled the old one, the seal is looking really quite worn all the way round, and there is a groove in one side if it (not a cut, but a worn groove), so either a piece of rubbish got in there, or the machining on the cylinder was rubbish.

    Amazing how the first one managed 16 years, the second only two....

    Anyways, back on the road, after a day in the back up 1953 Morris Traveller

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    ....... And MOT passed this morning, advisory about both rear drop links knocking, hardly surprising, they are the originals ( I kinda knew they were like this....)

    One more for the list

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  • Mikes2
    replied
    That's a bit of a result. Saves removing a gearbox or engine

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    I certainly hope so....

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  • steve briance
    replied
    Well done! Sounds like a permanent fix!

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    Well, a productive afternoon.

    Tackled the rear main seal sump bolts, borescope in hand, behind hole number 1:

    image_74587.jpg

    Behind hole number 2:

    190519_143457.jpg

    Suffice to say, that is definitely missing something in hole number 2. The mystery is solved, and predicted by newsh / Andy P .

    Sorry for the quality, the borescope cost £7 and plus into an android phone/tablet, so you can imagine why it looks like this!

    So, tackled this issue, turns out the cap heads that hold the crank sensors in place are only a few mm shorter, so used one of those, and replaced the sensor bolt with a regular hex head, fiddly to do up as you can't get a socket on it, but doable.

    I removed the one that was in there, which was good and tight, and replaced both with a good amount of loctite for good measure.

    Then onto the reason for the non-starts....

    On the 7A, there really is no way to fabricate something to replace the pin, there is so little room (It is NOT like AAN/ABY square pins at all, see previous photos), basically you have the thickness of the pin, and the height of the pin to work with.

    So, I cleaned the area up with a burr and sanding wheel, in a die grinder, with the earth lead connected to the front crank pulley, and the welder turned up to 11, I put a series of spot welds in a line, slowly building up without going too wide, to attempt to mimic the height and length of the pin. Once I'd exceeded it slightly, I pulled the die grinder out again and hand machined it back to the shape of the pin. This was important, as where the end of the pin stopped, there is NO room between it and the back of the engine. Similarly, if the pin was made too 'fat', it will hit the sensor -even with the stock pin, there were witness marks on the end of the sensor, so they are pretty close!

    In the end, it looked like this:

    IMG_20190519_160356.jpg

    It is smoother than the photo/reflections make it look, and definitely not proud of where the original pin was.

    So, starter back on, refit cranks sensors, connect battery -'click' nothing..... turns out I had the solenoid wire on the wrong spade terminal, doh.

    Switched it over, turned the key, and up she started! Phew... all good, thankfully, and hopefully never to happen again.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Bowie69; 19th May 2019, 22:40.

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    Car up at workshop now, fixing will commence on Sunday I reckon.

    Turns out my dad has a tiny borescope, so I will be able to get a good look in there, and see what's missing or not!

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    Some large button heads, and a flap disc in a grinder

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  • steve briance
    replied
    A hacksaw?

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