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Resurrection of my CQ20V

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  • Bowie69
    started a topic Resurrection of my CQ20V

    Resurrection of my CQ20V

    Well some of you asked for photos... here they are:







    Current interior AKA 'the toolbox':



    Plan is to go back to original, so the Boleros will stay for the moment, but am on the look out for the original 6-spoke speedlines for refurb (http://robinandpaul.files.wordpress..../speedline.jpg), but as this is likely to be pricey, it will be a while before they are done, certainly a whole set of tyres away

    F+R subframes and wishbones all polybushed, as well as rear diff mount.
    Rear subframe shotblasted and painted with galvafroid type paint.
    New new front diff mounts and gearbox mounts (OEM).
    Oil, plugs, filters all done.
    Rear calipers freed up so the handbrake works again.
    New rear discs and pads.
    Pentosin change.
    New front track rod ends.
    Lambda change for OEM instead of universal.
    News chain exhaust hangers.
    Coolant flush (Forte followed by a dishwasher tablet(!)) and new G13 coolant.
    New header tank
    Set of Bosch injectors plus the adapters.
    Alternator belt and replacement regulator.
    Passenger side regulator replaced.
    Heater blower removed, freed up and no longer blows it's fuse
    Doors adjusted.
    Boot re-sealed (still ongoing a little... but 90% of the way there...)
    Central dash switch illumination fixed
    'aero' wipers (standard arms)
    Replacement bulb holders, now filled with vaseline
    Replacement O/S headlamp (all mounts broken bar one)
    Towing eye cover replaced (was missing)
    Replacement O/S mirror
    Re-lubed all window and door lock mech


    Few things to do:

    Rear view mirror
    Headlamp adjustment
    Central locking pump is running on (maybe a minute after locking/unlocking)
    re-reseal N/S tail lamp
    MOT
    Radio reception diagnosis
    Unable to switch off air to face vents with knob
    Swap out wiper and hazard stalk for new
    Wire in MIL lamp
    Fit drivers side door trim (new from Audi 42+VAT)
    Proper alignment (anyone know anywhere in Somerset for that?)
    Headlining (mouldy), will recover at some point.
    Clean the inside up a bit!
    Get the headlamp seals in place properly


    Longer term stuff:

    Refurb head/swap out for known good/refurbed head as guides leak a bit into the 'zorst.
    Respray, paint is NOT good, roof all crazed, lacquer lifting in a few places, and bonnet fading. Possibly get this done in the summer.

    Phew.... sounds a lot now I write it up!

  • Bowie69
    replied
    ....... And MOT passed this morning, advisory about both rear drop links knocking, hardly surprising, they are the originals ( I kinda knew they were like this....)

    One more for the list

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  • Mikes2
    replied
    That's a bit of a result. Saves removing a gearbox or engine

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    I certainly hope so....

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  • steve briance
    replied
    Well done! Sounds like a permanent fix!

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    Well, a productive afternoon.

    Tackled the rear main seal sump bolts, borescope in hand, behind hole number 1:

    image_74587.jpg

    Behind hole number 2:

    190519_143457.jpg

    Suffice to say, that is definitely missing something in hole number 2. The mystery is solved, and predicted by newsh / Andy P .

    Sorry for the quality, the borescope cost £7 and plus into an android phone/tablet, so you can imagine why it looks like this!

    So, tackled this issue, turns out the cap heads that hold the crank sensors in place are only a few mm shorter, so used one of those, and replaced the sensor bolt with a regular hex head, fiddly to do up as you can't get a socket on it, but doable.

    I removed the one that was in there, which was good and tight, and replaced both with a good amount of loctite for good measure.

    Then onto the reason for the non-starts....

    On the 7A, there really is no way to fabricate something to replace the pin, there is so little room (It is NOT like AAN/ABY square pins at all, see previous photos), basically you have the thickness of the pin, and the height of the pin to work with.

    So, I cleaned the area up with a burr and sanding wheel, in a die grinder, with the earth lead connected to the front crank pulley, and the welder turned up to 11, I put a series of spot welds in a line, slowly building up without going too wide, to attempt to mimic the height and length of the pin. Once I'd exceeded it slightly, I pulled the die grinder out again and hand machined it back to the shape of the pin. This was important, as where the end of the pin stopped, there is NO room between it and the back of the engine. Similarly, if the pin was made too 'fat', it will hit the sensor -even with the stock pin, there were witness marks on the end of the sensor, so they are pretty close!

    In the end, it looked like this:

    IMG_20190519_160356.jpg

    It is smoother than the photo/reflections make it look, and definitely not proud of where the original pin was.

    So, starter back on, refit cranks sensors, connect battery -'click' nothing..... turns out I had the solenoid wire on the wrong spade terminal, doh.

    Switched it over, turned the key, and up she started! Phew... all good, thankfully, and hopefully never to happen again.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Bowie69; 19th May 2019, 22:40.

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    Car up at workshop now, fixing will commence on Sunday I reckon.

    Turns out my dad has a tiny borescope, so I will be able to get a good look in there, and see what's missing or not!

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    Some large button heads, and a flap disc in a grinder

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  • steve briance
    replied
    A hacksaw?

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    Darn, oh well, I expect I have something that will do in that case.

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  • Mikes2
    replied
    You're looking at the wrong one. Item 18 is M6x65mm but there are 5 of them fitted when you use this link https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+co.../1/103-103020/

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    Odd, this said otherwise....

    http://www.oemepc.com/audi/part_sing.../lang/e#sec_17

    Oh well, will have to look and see when I get it up on some stands.

    You will all be pleased to know my moment of belligerence has now passed, and the pin is definitely too hard to drill out. Hey, I had to try

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  • Mikes2
    replied
    They're not the right length for those 2 bolts - should only be 25mm

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    Have pre-emptively ordered some M6x65 cap heads in case.

    Will try drilling this evening, and then get it towed up to my workshop tomorrow at some point.

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  • Bowie69
    replied
    Ah those two, had to get them out when doing from crank seal and oil pump (so sump off....).

    Thanks very much Mike, I will definitely take a good look once I get it towed....

    Leave a comment:

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