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Originally posted by Bowie69 View Post
I would agree, but SKF don't appear available, nor gates, unless you know where to get one?
Antifreeze has always been genuine G13, though I am less convinced how good this is after doing a bit of reading.
https://vehicleaftermarket.skf.com/u...ucts/VKPC81606
Double check it's the right one for your car as I didn't have your index.
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In that case I'd I'd go with SKF if you can, I've just been and checked the 'Simmonds Parts Conservatory' and unfortunately I don't have a pump I'd be happy with someone depending on, well at least not in my heap of new boxed parts, could be somewhere else but highly unlikely.
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More searching turned up some SKF pumps, but none seems to be able to deliver for more than a week
Same for INA, gates appear non-existant.
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Originally posted by Tractor Dave View PostCareful. QH quality has dropped considerably in the last few years. I would personally get an SKF direct from their website or a Gates from a reputable source.
what anti freeze are you using?
Antifreeze has always been genuine G13, though I am less convinced how good this is after doing a bit of reading.
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Originally posted by Tractor Dave View PostCareful. QH quality has dropped considerably in the last few years. I would personally get an SKF direct from their website or a Gates from a reputable source.
what anti freeze are you using?
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Originally posted by Tractor Dave View PostShould have lasted longer than that That's only 7 years
I may actually have a new OE 3B pump knocking about from when I had mine, I know I have at least a couple of good spare pumps, just can't recall what condition their in or what brand they are. I don't keep scrap parts like pumps as they could get muddled up, I do however keep all old idle rollers etc as they can be useful for making other stuff.
I'm in the process of sorting through all my crap, I'll see what I can find, it'll be no use whatsoever for my RS2. Assuming 7A's use the same pump?
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Careful. QH quality has dropped considerably in the last few years. I would personally get an SKF direct from their website or a Gates from a reputable source.
what anti freeze are you using?
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Oh well, at least you have the tools to hand, that's a major bonus and you obviously know how do the job having done it before. Really 7/8 years is about when these belt's want to be changed if you to stay ever slightly on the cautious side, mileage dependant of course.
I whacked a new one on my 3B after one year and 8K miles on road then four years of simply being stood as I had the complete front end off doing other jobs. I looked at it and thought may as well, took about 1/2 an hour. I also didn't do the previous one myself and had found some slightly questionable work done on other area's of the car so figured it would be good to be sure it had been done right.
I'm not planning on doing any cambelts soon, and very rarely use the 3/4" stuff so it really wouldn't have put me out at all.
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Should have lasted longer than that That's only 7 years
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That's very kind of you Kit, yes it was disheartening, however I had been wondering if I should do the belt, it as been a while, as this post shows....
https://www.s2forum.com/forum/member...49#post1238949
just annoying having my hand forced!
Parts are on order and as that post shows I have the tools  , so game on, may even strip it on Sunday, can hardly drive it like it is.
When I did it last time I paid more for a Dolz pump on recommendation from here, not sure if the shaft or block seal failed, but guess will find out.
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Oh dear, that very disheartening, try and look on the bright side and at least it's not a head gasket failure to contend with. Also as cambelts go they're not hard at all to change on these cars as long as you have a crank locking tool and preferably a 3/4" drive breaker bar and socket.
Still, if that was me I'd have been retrieving tools and trim from around my garden this morning.
If your stuck for a locking tool you can borrow mine as that's can go in the post. In fact you can have loan of all the tools required if you can come and get them, depends whereabouts you are.
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That moment when you get it all back together, it's running great, beautiful sunset, almost home and then the coolant light comes on.
No problem, just top it up, must have been an airlock.
Get home, hmm, smell coolant.
Check under bonnet, coolant leaking from thermostat housing. Literally the worst place, as the whole lot has to come out.
Oh well, pull it all out, thermostat housing off, and refit with new, spare seal. Radiator back in, with new bottom mount, replacing the bracket above). Flush everything for good measure again, fill with water as waiting for coolant and run it up to temp.
Thermostat housing dry, good show! Fan kicks in and out a few times, I check for leaks and then refit the radiator top ducting. My foot is suddenly getting warm, weird.
I squat down to see a trail of what looks like slightly coolanty water running down the front of the engine. Erm? Pull the ducting off again and have a closer look, can't see where it is coming from. Thermostat housing appears to be dry still.

Eventually after much looking and poking and prodding, it seems the water pump has sprung a massive leak.
So I guess I am doing the timing belt next week.

Last edited by Bowie69; 11 March 2022, 21:52.
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Yes, very much so.
Will do the other three at some point now I have a method.
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