My S2 way back to better

[quattrostyle]

On my V8 with HP2 brakes even 15'' Aero wheels (the 5x112 version) fitted. If you can make them work on an S2 I would imagine you can keep the 3B wheels.

[McX]

TT calipers with 312mm discs might.

thanks irish for tip...these are bolt on or need brackets? and if i need to put some spacers i don't mind. I'm just trying to understund what i need to bye before take car apart!

[irishs2]

Not much info as its not that common an upgrade as the porsche calipers.
But try

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37121

[McX]

The previous owner did change the alternator. So should be alright. New battery as well. When lights are off battery gauge shows 12V (sounds on edge to me) and battery charging. When Ligts ON gauge comes downd to 11.5ish. When wipers, rear window heating, fun ON it comes down to 10V and battery warning comes up in dash. Any good idea where to find the problem? Can the voltage been adjusted?

[newsh]

Should be 14v when charging and 13v when off. Check the wiring to the battery and alternator and measure at the battery terminals with a meter to double check.

[McX]

ok after long winter at last

1. When I measure the battery with multimeter. Only engine working 13.9V, lights on 13.4V, heating and light on 12.8V. So when I use more electric equipment Voltage drops rapidly. If I drive in rainy day with all stuff on battery is going flat after longer trip. Not sure is it alternator or power management problem.

2. Failed to pas MOT on ABS not working and light on. Not sure how to sort out the brake problem, cant find a proper ABS thread in forum as well. Abs light is always on from the day I bought the car.

3. Tried to read codes and didn't work for me. The photo is attached. The scanning is happening and then it says linkage error. I can not find any other cables or connectors to attach it. So ones I found didn't work for me. Tried many times, with engine off, on, key out etc.

Any help would be appreciated

[McX]

Abs light is off now. Fault was, Fuse on relay under steering wheel. Manage to pass MOT but after 1/2 mile driving the light is back on again every time. Can be switched of but then coming back again after sameish distance.

Plan is to change all brake discs and pads. So the question is, witch would be the best option to go with if I want to stay on original system. I want to sort the car out properly and I have no time for projects and upgrades at the moment.


Code reader is not working as well. Is there any suggestions about garage or man who knows these cars (electrics) around London or Milton Keynes Oxford area?

[quattro-nick]

it can be that you need to use the blue connector for reading codes from abs but i'm not sure

[McX]

I tried the blue one as well. Cant get any codes. Not ABS, not engine etc

[Error404]

Reader might be useless, especially some of the crap off ebay. What are you using?

You have symptoms of a weak alternator. ABS is the first system to drop out with a weak voltage, it is quite sensitive.
Could be as simple as the load on it is making the belt slip. Check first the belt tension, then remove the voltage regulator and give it a good clean.
Check the connections on the alternator are tight.

[McX]

u281 memoscan I try to use, photo 2 posts up.

Funny thing, I use the car 2-3 times per week at the moment and without lights, fun etc battery caharges fine and everything works. Even with fun on it is not so bad but Voltage drops with lights on quite badly. from 13.9 to 12ish

Alternator been changed by previous owner about year ago.

[Error404]

Headlights do draw a bit. What about if you hotwire the rad fan? That draws a hell of a lot on the ABY.

[McX]

ok i ll try that one. will see. I just seen the post where someone put the voltage hogher and had a similar problem. just want to make sure there is smth broken before do radical steps.

[Error404]

What your describing isn't normal you definitely have a problem

[McX]

Ok, Short story and many questions. I was lucky enough that no one bought my car when it was important to me to sell it. Looks like a joke but so many s2 cars (really good ones and low priced) came up in market in last few Month, I never seen before when I was looking for mine.

Ok, the car stays with me and I have loads of work to do now, after I finish (get on road) my motorbike blade fighter project !

There is a list I'm making for my self and any suggestions, offers, good references about other enthusiasts who sell stuff and give a hand etc more than welcome. All DIY I can do myself, but where ramp and heavy artillery involved is better trust to specialists

1. Change all locks to work with one key (second hand full set is in a box in a shelf) Need to find spare blank to make second key. I'd like to have original one but 30 pounds for oem blank feels a lot. I have seen for 15 in a past, but not any more.... Could do non oem blank for daily use and keep the oem in draw...
2. Change the rear viper motor (in a shelf).
3. Left door electric window working but makes funny noises... Second hand coupe left window mechanism might be in a shopping list.... (pm if you sell one)
4. Roof cloth needs to be changed. The black car would look nice with grey colored cloth. I dont like white as it is... After need to mach color around other stuff as well Loads of info @ AndyP car built, so I feel well informed about this one.
5. All not workin underlights in buttons need to be fixed. I guess would be good idea to go with LED. Only thing, need to change them all I guess, to mach the same brightness. What leds and how to do?
6. Speedo cluster need to change trip display. Other problems with speedo. Clock restarting all the time and engine temperature gauge works when it wants. I have bought another speedo for parts and trip display in good nick as well. I hope clock and temp gauge problem is bad earth... If not I have parts to play around. AS far as I understand underlight needs to be original bulbs, to keep dimmer working, or go with fancy s2_bo stuff, not sure Hes got in stock and not sure is it works with dimmer...
7. The clutch says NO. The clutch pedal is not coming back, fluids are ok, little bit rattling noise coming from engine where the clutch is. My guess is pressure plate ball bearing or smth like that. It is a big job and needs to be booked in garage. Some advice about garages who loves our cars in Milton Keynes, Aylesbury, Oxford area are welcome. If they could give some estimates for work only would be nice. My plans with engine for future is rs2ish setup. So just wondering, should I go with oem clutch in this point or I need to look at smth more advanced?
8. Rear diff needs attention with seals. Oil change in gear box and diff. Is there full seal set list for 3b rear diff somewhere? And where to buy?
9. Fix/change accelerator pedal
10. Read the fault codes at last when the car is back on a road. I don't know yet is it cheep ebay crap doesn't work or there is issue in car, that fault codes can't be readed.
11. PAS was noisy in some point, but not anymore again , I guess would be good idea to source the spare one just in case. Where to buy? Witch other audi 80 PAS are the same as 3bS2?

Wow long list just to make it work more or less properly