RichLV's UrS4

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Morris400
    replied
    I kept all Oem plastic valves and their fine. The Oem boost hoses however did not hold up to chipped ecu boost. The lower intercooler hose blew right open at WOT. And the upper intercooler although still intact and installed has started to show signs of cracking.

    Keep Oem pcv valves
    Silicone hoses. EBay is fine that's what I went with.

    Leave a comment:


  • hunker7
    replied
    Originally posted by RichLV
    So at my power target I can leave plastic OEM valves? Just throw in some silicon hoses?
    I'm sure you can (correct me if I'm wrong), and i think even OEM hoses are good for 300-350, I mean that's RS2 power.

    Leave a comment:


  • RichLV
    replied
    So at my power target I can leave plastic OEM valves? Just throw in some silicon hoses?

    Leave a comment:


  • hunker7
    replied
    Audi has done pretty good job on setup on these cars, most things are not worth upgrading unless you're going some silly power.

    Leave a comment:


  • RichLV
    replied
    Everyone keeps telling me that all the valves from 034 are not worth it. Are they that bad?

    Leave a comment:


  • macspring
    replied
    Don't be tempted to use the little metal 034 valve in the PCV system. It is my understanding that they do not work as well as a new oem one.

    Others may know more.

    But maybe play it safe with the oem one in the meantime.

    Regards.





    Leave a comment:


  • RichLV
    replied
    So I could use some info on mods. The target is about 300-350 HP, on stock internals. What should be done to achieve that target besides mapping? Power upgrades will come after full engine rebuild. Ebay silicon hoses will be bought as well.

    Apprieciate the info!

    Leave a comment:


  • RichLV
    replied
    Swapped for summer boots!
    Last edited by RichLV; 13 April 2015, 17:21.

    Leave a comment:


  • RichLV
    replied
    Change of plans, gonna leave the stock system intact, just replace the valves with ones from 034 motorsport, replace hoses with silicon equivalents and throw a catch can between cam cover and pressure valve.

    Is it a worthy investment to go for a MAFless chip? They are twice the price of a regular one.
    Last edited by RichLV; 10 April 2015, 11:37.

    Leave a comment:


  • Morris400
    replied
    The N80 is run to the Intake manifold already. It's attached to the rubber "T" under the manifold. And I think you could get away with the filter. A buddy of mine ran a filter like that but with the Oem pcv system. When deleting all the valves and the catch can you would be safe to keep it attached to the inlet as nothing should get past the catch can.

    Leave a comment:


  • RichLV
    replied
    That's a very elaborate advice, thank you!

    So I'm connecting the N80 valve directly to intake manifold? If i'm going the catch can option, then it leaves the breather tube to inlet hose? Or I can go with a can and place a little air filter on the breather port on the valve cover (like in this pic)


    The pros I see with removing the stock PCV system is that there will be less hoses to leak boost, but how will the car perform, since the system is working either vacuum shift or boost shift? How does the system affect running of the car overall?

    Leave a comment:


  • Morris400
    replied
    This is my idea I came up with. It deletes both the check valve and the PRV. You would have 2 options either run the vent system under the car and vent to atmosphere. Or you can use a catch can and just empty the can every oil change or so.

    You would have to get some silicone hose to complete this as there is no Oem hose that deletes the valves.


    I ran this same style set up on my 2.7T and it worked great. Only issue was it froze in winter and backed up which blew some top end seals.

    Leave a comment:


  • RichLV
    replied
    Thanks for the info and happy easter to ya!

    I do plan on some increased power, but not much, since the car will be a daily driver. The plan is to do some headwork (same as on my first Audi 80 2.0E) e.g. lightened valves, enlarged intake and exhaust ports, angled valve seats, but not by much, only to a safe level. After that it's definitely a chip. The power has to be compatible with OEM rods and pistons.

    If I can leave the stock system intact it will be a lot easier, and if with a catch can no oil vapors will be transferred to the intake, then I can leave the stock one, get new hoses and valves from 034 motorsport and leave it at that. Baseline is that I want to get rid of oil in the intake.

    Oh, and I have some meaner injectors at the garage, previous owner gave them to me, although I don't know how the injector tuning works.

    Leave a comment:


  • Morris400
    replied
    I had very little oil if any returning to the intake. I took apart the pcv system and thought I was gonna do some crazy OCC set up but ended up just replacing the Oem valves and left it alone. The Oem system works extremely well when the car is mainly stock.

    When running more power, if you chose to run a catch can. I would think you could delete the check valve going to the intake manifold and run a straight line to the intake boot with a catch can in the middle. You would need to delete the prv as well. I will post some pics of what I came up with a few months ago. Just give me a bit lol.Easter egg hunting at the moment.

    Leave a comment:


  • RichLV
    replied
    I've seen these, but the issue here is that I want to get rid of oily vapors in the intake and vent them to atmosphere through a catch can.

    I've researched the system a bit, and how do people get rid of that 4 way PCV?

    Catch can choices:




    First one is 0.5 liters, other two 0.4. Which would be the better choice?
    Last edited by RichLV; 5 April 2015, 12:15.

    Leave a comment:

Working...