RichLV's UrS4

[RichLV]

Had the chance to take a fairly decent pic of the ride.



I'll do full write-up on the jobs done on Saturday. Right now it's running like a dream. No loads yet, 2.5k & 0.5 bar boost max, doing the break-in now. 650km left, then oil change and then gradually increase the loads.

[UrS4boy]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXLNbpWy8mA

Great news. Congrats

[RichLV]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXLNbpWy8mA

[RichLV]

They are 316 stainless not aluminium mate.[emoji3]

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I stand corrected.

[Dobby84]

Aluminium injector inserts from our own Dobby84.



I'm assembling the head at the moment. Bottom's almost fully ready, only the catch can installation and hose routing left. Having trouble putting back the damn front ARB, can't seem to be able to do it alone.

They are 316 stainless not aluminium mate.[emoji3]

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[RichLV]

My experience is that small breather pipes create crank case pressure as they can't flow enough. They are also likely to plug up with gunge.

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I followed your advice. Modified the catch can with 20mm brass nipples and I'm using 20mm hoses straight from the crankcase breather -> can and from the can -> intake transfer pipe. Hope that's enough and the ride won't smoke in idle or under load.

***

Had some issues when assembled, such as bad instrument cluster fuse, the cluster did not want to come alive. Changed the fuse and problem sorted.

When we spun the engine on the starter, oil did not want to circulate around. Had to prime the oil pump. Since everything was already assembled the only solution we had was to prime it via the oil temperature sensor/oil release valve. Took it out and injected oil using a syringe and a very handy silicone vacuum hose, which I managed to stick to the very end and get the oil right onto the gears. Got pressure after that - 3 bar of pressure just on the starter.

The car did not want to start anyway. It was bubbling and spitting and almost starting but nothing in the end. Suspecting bad fuel, since it was sitting in the garage for almost a year with 5 liters in the tank. Fuel doesn't burn. I took out a soaking wet plug & used a lighter on it just to check if it burns - nothing, it doesn't burn even when burned. I'll drain the tank & fuel rail, swap the fuel filter & fill it with fresh fuel. Should be a go from there.

Also I have a pretty low compression in the cylinders, but that's probably because the rings don't have enough oil on them/have not sat in properly yet, and some of the hydrolifters don't have enough oil in them and can't open the valves properly yet.

[diesel des]

The main pipes are able to handle more flow, but that doesn't mean that the flow is there. I don't know the diameter of the orifice in the PCV valve, but it's certainly not 20mm. And besides, since the system doesn't push out the gases, but rather sucks them out via pipes with the help of either manifold or turbo vacuum, doesn't it mean that with smaller pipes the gases will flow with higher velocity? In this case, the can's smaller diameter will serve as the orifice.

I suppose I could drill the can holes bigger... Have to talk with my fabricator first. I had a thought that 10mm might be too small and will just suffocate the system.

My experience is that small breather pipes create crank case pressure as they can't flow enough. They are also likely to plug up with gunge.

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[RichLV]

Sure but this is at the source of vacume. The main breather pipes are like 20mm which flows 4 x your 10mm pipe. My breather setup has nothing smaller than 20 or 25mm.

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The main pipes are able to handle more flow, but that doesn't mean that the flow is there. I don't know the diameter of the orifice in the PCV valve, but it's certainly not 20mm. And besides, since the system doesn't push out the gases, but rather sucks them out via pipes with the help of either manifold or turbo vacuum, doesn't it mean that with smaller pipes the gases will flow with higher velocity? In this case, the can's smaller diameter will serve as the orifice.

I suppose I could drill the can holes bigger... Have to talk with my fabricator first. I had a thought that 10mm might be too small and will just suffocate the system.

[diesel des]

The standard pipe which goes to the intake manifold is 13mm (inner). The valve under the manifold also restricts the flow to only small orifice under boost. Stock system isn't much wider.

Sure but this is at the source of vacume. The main breather pipes are like 20mm which flows 4 x your 10mm pipe. My breather setup has nothing smaller than 20 or 25mm.

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[RichLV]

10mm is way to small for an oil breather on our engines.

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The standard pipe which goes to the intake manifold is 13mm (inner). The valve under the manifold also restricts the flow to only small orifice under boost. Stock system isn't much wider.

[diesel des]

10mm is way to small for an oil breather on our engines.

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[Kieron20V]

They go into the lower control arm.

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[RichLV]

When I put mine back on I fitted the control arm ends loosely first then fitted the mounts to the subframe. Had no problems at all.

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Ends which go into the struts?

***

I'm facing a very fancy issue right now. So I'm remaking the PCV system by removing all valves and just routing it from the block and the head straight to the intake boot via a catch can.

I modified the stock PCV distribution pipe, by cutting off and welding shut the pipe which leads to the intake manifold.


I bought a D1 Spec aluminium catch can which, of course is empty inside (duh...) and intend to baffle it using this DIY - http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/t...stall-(Baffled).

The problem is that the nipples on the can are much smaller diameter than the metal elbow which comes out of the PCV distributor - the pipe's outer diameter is 20mm, the nipple on the can is 10mm. So I need to route the gases from the block (20mm) to the can nipple (10mm) and out of the can (10mm) to the transfer pipe (20mm).

I've already received some suggestions what to do in this case, namely either fabricating larger diameter can nipples or just duct-taping/insulating them to fit the 20mm hose on them.

Would very much appreciate some ideas how to handle this quickly, as I very much want to start the car on Saturday. For the record, this was the can, with largest diameter nipples I could source.

[Kieron20V]

When I put mine back on I fitted the control arm ends loosely first then fitted the mounts to the subframe. Had no problems at all.

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[macspring]

Use a decent ratchet strap which will help you 'pull' the ARB into place, and get the lower control arm and it's bushes onto it.

Use tape on the ARB to stop a jubilee clip taking paint off the ARB, and the jubilee clip is to stop the ratchet strap sliding sideways along the ARB.

Hopefully you get what I'm suggesting.