RichLV's UrS4

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  • RichLV
    replied
    I know Dave. I've read the DSY fitment comments like 20 times already... I want to go a little different route. I'll route the pipes into an OEM AAN automatic transmission front radiator using V8/AAN (auto) oil cooler pipes. I need everything on my hands to fabricate the connections between DSY oil pipes and OEM oil pipes. I'll get the pipes and transmission bolts probably on Saturday.
    Last edited by RichLV; 13 September 2016, 08:25.

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by RichLV
    Prepping a 6-speed swap for my lady, finally.
    DSY box from S4 B5. Need a few more bits and pieces to start the swap.
    DSYs have an oil pump that pumped the oil to the radiator for cooling (and warming in the winter). The radiator was like (or was) the radiator from an Autobox car (with integral transfluid coolant channels).

    You could just add an oil cooler for summer use (by-pass for the winter).

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  • RichLV
    replied
    Prepping a 6-speed swap for my lady, finally.



    DSY box from S4 B5. Need a few more bits and pieces to start the swap.

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  • RichLV
    replied
    I'm a 2 hour boat ride away from you. Should be fast. [emoji4]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • Thuppu
    replied
    That was fast. Economy shipping usually isn't so fast. Yes sorry, it was full, got the e-mail notification.

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  • RichLV
    replied
    Yup, got them 4 days after you shipped. Couldn't PM you, full mailbox.

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  • Thuppu
    replied
    Ooh, you got them already.

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  • RichLV
    replied
    Upgraded the rear brakes today. It's a 310x22 rotor upgrade using Thuppu's adapter plates.



    Grinded the edges of the caliper and inside of the carrier for unobstructed fitment.



    Fits nicely over R16 Avus.



    Used Zimmermann A8 rotors and Ferodo UrS4 pads.

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  • RichLV
    replied
    Originally posted by UrS4boy
    Hope you found the DIY useful and easy to follow.

    I just needed the wire lengths from it And was interesting to see what parts you used.

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    Originally posted by RichLV
    Pump is now also relayed and feeding directly from the battery. Feeds on a hefty 13 volts. Used this DIY - http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/24327.phtml
    Hope you found the DIY useful and easy to follow.

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  • RichLV
    replied
    Swapped the fuel pump today. Getting the old one out was easy, but stuffing in the new one was a challenge...





    Secured the pump with a clamp on top and stuffed it with a silicone vacuum hose cut in half from the bottom. Secured tight.



    I was using a basket from a 2.3 coupe and when I was stuffing the pump back in wondered why it doesn't sit as it should and then I noticed that the NG basket's outer ring is missing additional grooves. Tried to cut them using pliers, but the basket just disintegrated. After that I combined NG inner pump cradle with AAN basket outer ring and the pump slid to the spot perfectly.

    Pump is now also relayed and feeding directly from the battery. Feeds on a hefty 13 volts. Used this DIY - http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/24327.phtml
    Last edited by RichLV; 17 July 2016, 00:10.

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  • RichLV
    replied
    Damn this thing is heavy for a pump...

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  • grundey
    replied
    Check G69

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  • UrS4boy
    replied
    UrS 20VT live engine bay device map

    Click on the link below (and book mark it), then on the G70 MAF and N71 Idle Speed Control Valve labels to find out more info, including testing.



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  • RichLV
    replied
    Can't seem to get rid of a single re-occurring fault. It usually pops up with a CEL when I let the car idle for an extended amount of time, only when hot.

    00533
    Idle speed control
    10-00 Adaptation limit not reached

    The fault description mentions lot of things (based from this http://www.s2-audi.co.uk/tech_articl...ecu_faults.htm)
    -Idling speed stabilisation valve N71 sticking
    -Air mass meter G70 characteristic curve shifted
    -Contact resistance at connector of N71
    -N71 sticking in open position
    -G70 characteristic curve shifted
    -Ingress of air betwen G70 an N71
    -Throttle valve potentiometer G69
    incorrectly set
    -Throttle body valve jamming

    And the only real effect I experience is this -Poor throttle response.

    I have already done a leak test of hoses between the MAF and ISV, removed the throttle body and cleaned it, readjusted the TPS twice, cleaned and oiled the ISV twice (also checked with 12V if it's opening alright).

    Could it be MAF? Mine is in not so good condition, as the MAF test revealed. Also the fault disappears if I restart the engine, but usually pops up again if I let it idle for more time. No CEL when driving.

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