RichLV's UrS4

[RichLV]

as close to zero as possible. Really anything over 1 should be considered bad. 38 is a bad resistance.

Understood. I'll probably then just throw another wire to the intake manifold then.

[RichLV]

Experience counts. 20 minutes and its out.


Damn drum...


I also remeasured the ground from a new wire and then did again from the original wire on the maf connector - 0.3 ohms. Dunno why it was showing 38 last time...


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[RichLV]

Leak problem fixed. As diagnosed, new vacuum servo solved the problem. The brakes have become a lot better too. Servo - TRW PSA502.

My MOT is nearing it's end so I took the car for inspection. Did not pass, got a month to fix it. The problem was a very dead right control arm, which I have changed already. The arm - MOOG AU-TC-8201.

Waiting for all of the bits & pieces to arrive to swap the rear suspension for a sway bar'ed one.

Bushings received from Albert. All looking good.

[RichLV]

Now I have the sway bar rear suspension. It was renovated with new SKF bearings, MOOG sway bar arms, and street hardness poly bushes from Albert. Both front and rear sway bars have track hardness bushes.


Yes, I know its not painted... I'll de the painting when the whole car hits the paint shop.


Mr. Cat was keeping me company.

The street bushes are very nice, the ride is very firm and composed yet very comfortable on bad road.


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[RichLV]

[RichLV]

Visited a local Audi meet.









Ran into some problems though. Gave it a spin while I was there with the guys and it starts to throw white smoke and stink a bit when being constantly pushed (gear change -> WOT -> gear change -> WOT.....). After stopping the push the problem goes away. Not sure what could be causing this.

[diesel des]

Oil surge?

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[RichLV]

Oil surge?

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Don't know... Happens only on high RPM and WOT. After 5 such runs it even felt a bit limpy. Comes back to normal as soon as I stop stressing it. Didn't notice any smoke while WOT at 2000-4000 RPM.

Oil level is dead full, haven't lost a drop of oil since the rebuild.

*EDIT*

Seems like the turbo might be blowing a bit of oil at high RPM. Well, it's a used unit, gotta opt for a fresh one...

[RichLV]

Was thinking about the clutch to hold the powah! the other day. What I came up with is:

1) Friction plate - Sachs 88 1861 999 820 or 88 1861 999 821
2) Pressure plate - Sachs 88 3082 999 754
3) TO bearing - Sachs 04 3151 271 937 or 3151 271 937

Should hold the RS2'd power and torque at bay.

[RichLV]

My classic URS4

Got my 044 bits from Torques. Only the pump remains.

[RichLV]

Can't seem to get rid of a single re-occurring fault. It usually pops up with a CEL when I let the car idle for an extended amount of time, only when hot.

00533
Idle speed control
10-00 Adaptation limit not reached

The fault description mentions lot of things (based from this http://www.s2-audi.co.uk/tech_articl...ecu_faults.htm)
-Idling speed stabilisation valve N71 sticking
-Air mass meter G70 characteristic curve shifted
-Contact resistance at connector of N71
-N71 sticking in open position
-G70 characteristic curve shifted
-Ingress of air betwen G70 an N71
-Throttle valve potentiometer G69
incorrectly set
-Throttle body valve jamming

And the only real effect I experience is this -Poor throttle response.

I have already done a leak test of hoses between the MAF and ISV, removed the throttle body and cleaned it, readjusted the TPS twice, cleaned and oiled the ISV twice (also checked with 12V if it's opening alright).

Could it be MAF? Mine is in not so good condition, as the MAF test revealed. Also the fault disappears if I restart the engine, but usually pops up again if I let it idle for more time. No CEL when driving.

[UrS4boy]

UrS 20VT live engine bay device map

Click on the link below (and book mark it), then on the G70 MAF and N71 Idle Speed Control Valve labels to find out more info, including testing.

http://members.shaw.ca/ajmills/UrS%2...ice%20Map.html

[grundey]

Check G69

[RichLV]

Damn this thing is heavy for a pump...

[RichLV]

Swapped the fuel pump today. Getting the old one out was easy, but stuffing in the new one was a challenge...





Secured the pump with a clamp on top and stuffed it with a silicone vacuum hose cut in half from the bottom. Secured tight.



I was using a basket from a 2.3 coupe and when I was stuffing the pump back in wondered why it doesn't sit as it should and then I noticed that the NG basket's outer ring is missing additional grooves. Tried to cut them using pliers, but the basket just disintegrated. After that I combined NG inner pump cradle with AAN basket outer ring and the pump slid to the spot perfectly.

Pump is now also relayed and feeding directly from the battery. Feeds on a hefty 13 volts. Used this DIY - http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/24327.phtml