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I've started to experience a very strange bug with the car. I'm coming to a stop, press the clutch, and the engine just stalls. Instantly, no symptoms, just stalls with the ignition on. Then I restart it quick and just continue on normally. This has happened once yesterday and once today.
1990 2.2 20VT Audi Coupe Quattro
*Hx35/k26, MaxxECU, Wagner EM/IC *RS2 Recaro *4pot-Brembo *3" turboback *Treser *Koni/H&R
1990 Audi 200 20v Avant 2.2 20VT *7 Seater *Full electric gizmos
I was changing the heater core today along with the climate box, since mine is shot. I got the box from A6, which seems to have somekind of an additional electric heater.
Is this from a Webasto system? Or all A6 have it? I'd like to wire it up maybe. Anyone seen these?
I was messing around with my brakes today, and was mocking up the 18z's, to see how they line up n stuff. I can't help but notice that the 18z's I have, have a M16 bolt hole, while my HP2 struts only have M12. I was searching through the net extensively and did not find any mention on how to eliminate this problem. Maybe someone with the 18z upgrade could chime in with some advice?
Item 18 is the M16 bolt. OEM bolt on my struts is M12.
I was changing the heater core today along with the climate box, since mine is shot. I got the box from A6, which seems to have somekind of an additional electric heater.
Is this from a Webasto system? Or all A6 have it? I'd like to wire it up maybe. Anyone seen these?
That is a AEL 2.5 TDI heater - auxiliary air heater filled with oil . As far as I know it heats up cabin before coolant gets to temperature - condition being to set climate control to 'high'.....it is controlled by AEL ECU somehow but...I am am AAN guy
So basically it has 4 wires, 1 ground, 1 power (I presume) and 2 control wires. Maybe it would be possible to wire it to the window heater button for example, through a relay, because the wires are pretty thick, I guess it would be better to wire it directly to battery. Problem is which wires do what.
*update*
OK, I found a detailed description on this thing. How it works, how to troubleshoot it. It's doable to retrofit and connect it, but requires a very strong alternator since the heater is 600 Watt!!!
So basically it has 4 wires, 1 ground, 1 power (I presume) and 2 control wires. Maybe it would be possible to wire it to the window heater button for example, through a relay, because the wires are pretty thick, I guess it would be better to wire it directly to battery. Problem is which wires do what.
*update*
OK, I found a detailed description on this thing. How it works, how to troubleshoot it. It's doable to retrofit and connect it, but requires a very strong alternator since the heater is 600 Watt!!!
It will be good to share the info , I might retrofit too, I am almost certain TDI engine ECU controls it ( bear in mind TDI has little power usage ( no ignition - ) ), so perhaps on petrol car will be too much?
Yes, you are right, the ECU controls it based on a number of input parameters. But all 3 wires are the power wires, not control. The heater is activated in 3 stages by the ECU.
*troubleshooting*
Literature mentions that resistance between the big ground wire and each individual power wire has to be between 0.2 & 5 ohms. Inspection has to be done while the car is cold.
*control*
The control wires are coming from the passenger side (LHD) kick panel, from relays 214 & 114. Relay numbers can differ from car to car, but usually these two.
Control parameters:
Basically it's controlled by the ECU, based on this:
- Engine is working more than 8 seconds, RPM higher than 500.
- Coolant temperature less than 75 deg C.
- Power system voltage exceeds 12.2V & control unit J519 does not send any command interfering with aux heater start.
- Climatronic J255 does not have any fault codes stored or currently active.
- No fault codes present in engine ECU & alternator load less than 30...77% (based on engine RPM).
- Based on settings & measured temperatures, Climatronic ECU J255 has calculated additional heater power, which is needed to reach desired interior temperature.
- Climatronic ECU J255 has calculated that less than 90% air will pass through the heater core.
- Through both aux heating relays (smaller power heating relay J359 & bigger power heating relay J360) ECU controls the 3-stage aux heater core Z35, so that load on the alternator does not exceed 95%. At the same time, switch to the next stage happens when load on the alternator drops to 30...77% (based on engine RPM).
*turn-off conditions*
- Any of the aux heater start conditions are not met.
- Calculated ambient temperature higher than 11 deg C.
- Load on the alternator exceeds 95%.
- Climatronic ECU J255 has calculated that less than 60% air will pass through the heater core (temperature regulation flap position).
*dissassembly*
The heater itself consists of 7 metallic plates, separated by 6 plastic plates.
On the plates themselves, + and - are in series. Four are connected with the hull & three get the control wires. Plastic plates have somekind of conductive little plates (apparently graphite), through which the power gets fed.
The little plates are lubricated with somekind of conductive grease and glued to the big metallic plates. With time, the grease dries out and the resistance increases in the contact points metallic plate - graphite plate.
This is what I've found. Hope this helps. Russians are saying that without a 120amp alternator it's not gonna work, since at full power it is drawing up to 50 amps. Based on the catalogs, AAN's have a 110amp alternator.
Based on this, I'd say that somekind of a staged switch would be cool to activate the different stages of the heater, in case the alternator does not feel well. The switch has to be pretty powerful for the current draw though.
And also I'm now a proud owner of a beatiful, fully heated black leather interior. Interior of this car is now a very nice place to be.
Question for fellow heated leather owners. I had velour front heated seats in my A80, and when turned on to 6, you could get burns from the heat. These on the other hand are more like kept warm, than heated. Are they intended like that? I've tested for voltages on the plugs and for one pair it's ~7.6v and for other ~1.8v.
My precious is now fully poly-bushed. Ride is very firm, yet comfortable. Thanks to Albert for providing such cool aftermarket parts. Front suspension has been rebuilt too (except shocks). All I need to do now is 4-wheel alignment.
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