RichLV's UrS4

[RichLV]

Ok, so the write-up on the things I've done during the rebuild. All of the work was done by me alone or me & an assistant. All of the special machining work (measuring, pressure testing, etc.) was done by known and recommended professionals. I'll add pictures of the looks under the hood a bit later.

Engine:
*Block*
- Full rebuild of the AAN engine.
- Sourced bottom end from 1995 S6.
- Block measured and re-honed.
- Crankshaft measured and polished.
- ACL Race main bearings.
- King Racing rod bearings.
- FCP X-Beam 144x20mm rods.
- Stock pistons, cleaned.
- Mahle piston rings.
- Stock oil pump.
- Billet crank pulley.
- New crank pulley bolt.
- New gaskets all around.

*Head*
- Stock head, lightly skimmed & pressure tested.
- New AE intake & exhaust valves.
- New Metelli valve guides.
- New INA lifters.
- Valve seat & valve 45-degree backcuts.
- New cam pulley bolt.
- New gaskets all around.

*Misc*
- New flanges.
- New Mahle thermostat.
- New HEPU waterpump.
- Gates timing belt, INA tensioner roller.
- Gates aux belt.
- Mahle oil, air & fuel filter.
- Silicone water hoses.
- A/C compressor & radiator deleted.
- All possible sensors replaced except MAF, N75, N80 & injectors.
- New Corteco engine hydromounts.
- Proper right engine mount.
- Bought missing front snub mount.
- K24-7000 turbo from 1994 S2.
- Stainless steel injector inserts.
- Billet throttle cam.
- Wagner RS2 EVO exhaust manifold.
- Copper nuts on exhaust side.
- New exhaust system gaskets.
- Replaced fuel rail.
- New injector o-rings.
- Modified breather system: valves deleted, straight line from the block distributor to intake transfer pipe through a baffled catch can. 20mm diameter.
- Repair kits used on both clutch cylinders.

Suspension:
- 28mm front ARB with poly bushes from Albert.

Brakes:
- New front ABS sensors.

Steering:
- Replaced steering rack, servotronic works now.
- Brand new TRW single-contour PAS pump.

Fluids:
- Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w-40 engine oil.
- Motul Gear 300 75w-90 gearbox & diff.
- Motul green hydraulic fluid for PAS system.
- G13 coolant.
- Ferodo DOT4 brake fluid.

That's about it. I'll add if I missed something.

[RichLV]

Got the throttle cam. It's very very light, like a feather almost.

[RichLV]

Current look:



Battling starting issues at the moment.

[RichLV]

I'm thinking where could I stick the EGT probe to? I've read some material online and most suggest that pre-turbo is the best place (i'm thinking in the hotside housing). Others are refuting it because if the probe falls apart, the bits go through the turbine and that it should just be fit right after the turbo, in the downpipe, but there's a few hundred degree temperature differential between pre- and post-turbo, so the reading is inaccurate.

Anyone could chime in with some advice?

[UrS4boy]

The OE downpipe had an OE bung for sniffing/temp probing downstream of the turbo. Work with that idea.

[Thuppu]

What would you do with temp readings from the downpipe?

[RichLV]

What would you do with temp readings from the downpipe?

If that's for me, then nothing. I just want to monitor the health of the car as much as I can. I'm actually still undecided whether to fit an EGT or an AFR gauge. Majority of recommendations suggest an AFR, since it shows faster, while EGT's can be explained differently. The most booming combination is both, but I only have room for one more. :/

P.S. And I also love gauges...

[diesel des]

Fit the egt pre turbo for mapping then move it to the downpipe and more the difference. Then if you a we the dowpipe temperature high you can slow down.

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[RichLV]

Fit the egt pre turbo for mapping then move it to the downpipe and more the difference. Then if you a we the dowpipe temperature high you can slow down.

Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk

Could you elaborate please? Not sure I followed you there.

[diesel des]

Sorry what I ment was the pre turbo temperature is the one that's important. So measure that during mapping. 900 deg c max for endurance racing and 1000 deg c for short blasts. Drive a test route at a known speed e.g. up a steep hill flat out. Record temperature.

Then once it's mapped move the probe to the downpipe and compare what temperature you are getting there on the same test route driving the same speed. Then you know the relationship between both places. The downpipe will also be slower to react.

If the downpipe temperature later gets high you know you have an issue. The probe will be more reliable in the downpipe and if it fails will not damage your turbo there.

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[macspring]

AFR over EGT everytime imho.

Just sayin................

Always room for one more though.

[RichLV]

In that case I need this gauge -



Maybe someone can help me find it? It was in stock at one of our local shops, but isn't anymore. I'd like to keep all gauges looking alike. It's an Autogauge Blue LED 52mm AFR. Maybe someone can source me one?

***

Ok, so the starting issues are fixed. Brand new Bosch Fuel Pressure Regulator solved it. Now starts very nicely.

Fuel Pressure gauge has found a way into my car! I'm actually very fond of the way I installed it. If not for the hose, looked like OEM. Everything fits nicely under the cap, which had to be cut a little, since the hollow bolt is longer.




Also got a set of very fine headlights, they are already on the car, didn't get the chance to take a pic. :/

[diesel des]

Is that a proper wideband afr gauge? If not it's no real use.

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[RichLV]

Is that a proper wideband afr gauge? If not it's no real use.

Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk

It's a narrowband, I have a narrowband lambda, doubt that I can pair a WB AFR to it. And it's better than nothing.

[RichLV]

I'm facing 2 issues at the moment.

1. Oil leaking through the bottom of the dipstick. Is there an O-ring intended on the dipstick or not? I could not find anything via part catalogs. For now I have dipped it in black silicone gasket maker. The ******* leaks on the oil pan, which initially led me to beleive that oil pan gasket is bad.

2. The car occasionally smokes on idle when hot (90 deg). And smokes a lot I would say. Doesn't smoke while driving, or stops smoking after I give it a spin. Could it be because of the PCV?