RichLV's UrS4

[RichLV]

My classic URS4

Got my 044 bits from Torques. Only the pump remains.

[RichLV]

Was thinking about the clutch to hold the powah! the other day. What I came up with is:

1) Friction plate - Sachs 88 1861 999 820 or 88 1861 999 821
2) Pressure plate - Sachs 88 3082 999 754
3) TO bearing - Sachs 04 3151 271 937 or 3151 271 937

Should hold the RS2'd power and torque at bay.

[RichLV]

Oil surge?

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Don't know... Happens only on high RPM and WOT. After 5 such runs it even felt a bit limpy. Comes back to normal as soon as I stop stressing it. Didn't notice any smoke while WOT at 2000-4000 RPM.

Oil level is dead full, haven't lost a drop of oil since the rebuild.

*EDIT*

Seems like the turbo might be blowing a bit of oil at high RPM. Well, it's a used unit, gotta opt for a fresh one...

[diesel des]

Oil surge?

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[RichLV]

Visited a local Audi meet.









Ran into some problems though. Gave it a spin while I was there with the guys and it starts to throw white smoke and stink a bit when being constantly pushed (gear change -> WOT -> gear change -> WOT.....). After stopping the push the problem goes away. Not sure what could be causing this.

[RichLV]

[RichLV]

Now I have the sway bar rear suspension. It was renovated with new SKF bearings, MOOG sway bar arms, and street hardness poly bushes from Albert. Both front and rear sway bars have track hardness bushes.


Yes, I know its not painted... I'll de the painting when the whole car hits the paint shop.


Mr. Cat was keeping me company.

The street bushes are very nice, the ride is very firm and composed yet very comfortable on bad road.


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[RichLV]

Leak problem fixed. As diagnosed, new vacuum servo solved the problem. The brakes have become a lot better too. Servo - TRW PSA502.

My MOT is nearing it's end so I took the car for inspection. Did not pass, got a month to fix it. The problem was a very dead right control arm, which I have changed already. The arm - MOOG AU-TC-8201.

Waiting for all of the bits & pieces to arrive to swap the rear suspension for a sway bar'ed one.

Bushings received from Albert. All looking good.

[RichLV]

Experience counts. 20 minutes and its out.


Damn drum...


I also remeasured the ground from a new wire and then did again from the original wire on the maf connector - 0.3 ohms. Dunno why it was showing 38 last time...


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[RichLV]

as close to zero as possible. Really anything over 1 should be considered bad. 38 is a bad resistance.

Understood. I'll probably then just throw another wire to the intake manifold then.

[Kieron20V]

as close to zero as possible. Really anything over 1 should be considered bad. 38 is a bad resistance.

[RichLV]

FWIW 38 Ohms is a $hitty ground. I wouldnt be ignoring that.

What would be a good ground then?

***

Found the culprit. Damn brake servo... Removed it from the vacuum system connection altogether and the idle dropped to 760-800 rpm. Guess I need a new one then...

[Kieron20V]

FWIW 38 Ohms is a $hitty ground. I wouldnt be ignoring that.

[URSIMPO]

Understood, thank you.

Intercooler? Read somewhere that stock one flows good enough for 500 or so HP. Or do I need bigger front mounted one?

http://www.kwe-racing.de/Audi/Audi-S6/RS6/Audi-S6-C4-Turbo-quattro-2-3T-20V-Performance-Tuning-Intercooler::940.html?language=en

This upgraded smic might be of benefit. Not sure what hp it's good for though. Certainley less of a faff than fitting an fmic.

[RichLV]

My classic URS4

If the MAF does not create the correct signal, the ECU will under/over fuel the cylinders and, unless the O2 sensor can give the needed feed back, to the ECU, you end up with a mixture adaptation issue.



Just sayin'

Mixture adaptation was not present when I was still driving with hydraulic servo. And another MAF did not remove it after I changed it to vacuum. Tests done a while ago.

Also, if it shows incorrect signal, then it should under/overfuel the car on both idle and while driving/boost, hence I would be getting lambda control and multiplicative mixture adaptation faults. Yet I get only the idle one.