First I need to check what's broken in the old turbo. Maybe the 70 euro kit from turborebuild.co.uk will do the trick. I'll just take it to rebalancing afterwards.
Second hand units of K24's in Latvia are very very rare, because people are frickin' cheap here, everyone is driving on diesels. Most of the enthusiast folk are only working on diesels. Number of 20VT's here is very small. More sense to look on this forum I think. Besides nowadays no one is splitting an engine here, they sell it as a complete kit, without taking anything off.
@Dave. Well everything that has been done on my UrS4 has been done with my own 2 hands (except welding). So I'd say I manage. Dunno about the RS6 though, it's rocket science compared to the old granpa C4.
RichLV's UrS4
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Thanks for the PN.
Found a few sources on eBay/Amazon, etc.
As for the C5 RS6, if you think your C4 UrS can have issues, they are minor compared to an RS6. You need to be a very good mechanic or have very very deep pockets to own one of those time-bombs.
The Autofren kit:

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Wouldn't it be cheaper to get a second hand unit rather then rebuilding old one? Especially as you're thinking of upgrades
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No upgrades while the engine has not been rebuilt I'm afraid... And I'm still undecided which turbo to opt for.
Sure Dave, it's an Autofren Seinsa D1-447
While it's parked maybe I'll finally decide to get me one of those RS6 C5's...Leave a comment:
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And in a week or so the car is going to be parked for considerable time. I've got horrible case of turbo sounding like a "dentist's drill". I'm gonna take it apart and see whether I'll rebuild it myself or give it to a shop. Pretty depressing. Just when the car started to run great...
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Did some repairs on the master clutch cylinder few days ago, it was leaking. Strapped a repair kit on it and all is good.




And in a week or so the car is going to be parked for considerable time. I've got horrible case of turbo sounding like a "dentist's drill". I'm gonna take it apart and see whether I'll rebuild it myself or give it to a shop. Pretty depressing. Just when the car started to run great...Leave a comment:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ring bearer.
The old f5dpor was good but I have seen and heard lots or stories about them breaking up and damaging engines. The newer batches seem to be weaker. Use caution is all I'm saying...
Agreed. Use at your own risk.
Some updates. Got major misfiring issue right after fitting 7A cover. While fitting the cover, fixed all intake leaks by replacing all hoses with silicone, turbo finally blows where it should. Right after that the car started misfiring horribly, and very violently. Was battling with it for 3 weeks until found out the cause. In the process we swapped everything that is possible to swap, to no avail. At the last moment when nothing was left to swap I decided to my old spark plugs in. All problems were miraculously gone the moment I took out F5DP0R's. Big thanks to Dave for holding with me during this time.
Glad you dodged the bullet and you only got a misfire, before you got the plug ceramic breaking up and taking the engine with it.
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I bought them. They are the same length as the studs. Added washers to compensate the length a little.
Also followed Dave's advice on WG adjustment. When all ignition faults were fixed, adjusted the allen screw 6 full turns down. Car runs great now.
Does anyone know where should I start diagnosing my ABS? I have the oldest one possible, with ABS switch, cannot be connected to via VCDS. It shuts off randomly, sometimes when I go over a pot hole with one of the front wheels, or when i'm just going straight on a good road. Besides that it interacts with my brake pedal, making it vibrate slightly sometimes.Last edited by RichLV; 17 August 2015, 08:44.Leave a comment:
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Looking great mate. Did you make the wastegate screws or bought them? If so how long are they? I need something to replace the old rusted studs with nuts
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For some unknown reason, they both work equally good. Had this thing going with my old A80, tried both orientations. Both worked without any issue.Leave a comment:
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Strange. Our shops show both types under 030 905 065. I just picked the one which looks like OEM.Leave a comment:
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Hmm....030 905 065 comes up as, this, which doesn't look as right as 030905065B below

030905065B comes up as:
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Well, as you know, simplest solutions are usually the last ones.
Yes, this is the one. I picked it from Golf 2 catalogue - 1.8 16V (PL engine code). Part number - 030 905 065. Basically any similar Hall will do, be it from Audi 80, 90 etc., any distributor device. Had an adventure with it later on though. We were in the process of getting to a lake for a swim when CEL came on. I stopped, and shut the engine down, which was a mistake. Surprise surprise, the car did not start, no ignition at all. The G40 was my first thought. Friend came and dragged me home. VCDS connected and fault found - Mechanical Malfunction. It turns that the pin, which holds the gear of the dizzy attached to shaft was wobbly and fell out during the drive, displacing the timing mark of the dizzy. Good thing that it did not bounce deeper under the cover, stayed in the dizzy gear camera. Took it out and threw it away. Installed a new gear pin and problem solved in 10 minutes.
Still have 00561 fault though, the idle one - Mixture Adaptation (Add) Exceeded. Can't figure out what could be the cause. All the hoses are new and silicone. I suspect that lower right turbo nut might be the case since I can't tighten it up. Or the wastegate flextube to downpipe connection since I do not have a gasket there, sealed it with exhaust sealant for now.Last edited by RichLV; 15 August 2015, 16:17.Leave a comment:
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