My S2 coupe bit of a rebuild and repair thread.
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No problem at all, if you need any other odd's and sod's just drop me a PM.Received the parts Kit, thanks again for the help
I also need some more help. Yet again. I'm looking for the tyre pressure chart for the car. The instruction manual for the S2 Coupe (and yes I have read it
) states it should be on the filler cap, but the only sticker on there is for the correct fuel to put in the car. I've also checked the doors and the B pillar and cannot find the chart. Can anyone upload a picture of the S2 Coupe chart please.
As John say's above check the boot lid for tyre pressure info, I did know what S2 Coupes were off the top of my head and could still make an educated guess but as I haven't owned one for nearly eight years I don't want to give you incorrect info.Leave a comment:
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Received the parts Kit, thanks again for the help
I also need some more help. Yet again. I'm looking for the tyre pressure chart for the car. The instruction manual for the S2 Coupe (and yes I have read it
) states it should be on the filler cap, but the only sticker on there is for the correct fuel to put in the car. I've also checked the doors and the B pillar and cannot find the chart. Can anyone upload a picture of the S2 Coupe chart please.
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Did some basic alignment on the car today, so that the rear & front wheels are all pointing in a similar direction to the opposite side. I've only got to drive it a couple of miles to get the the alignment place on the 25th and it's all 30mph roads, so should be good enough.
Found a wood working clamp holds the steering good enough
1-steering.jpg
Then used my usual method to rest the wheels on which is 2 bits of plastic, one side being smooth and the other very rough and applied WD40 between the rough & smooth surface's. I found that to pieces of smooth plastic together with grease or WD40 causes the plastic to just about to stick together and you get very little movement between the two surfaces.
2-plastic.jpg
Tomorrow I need to look at the handbrake cable, as the one that is 50mm too long had the be on the side of the exhaust
So it a little to close for my liking. Will but some heat rap around the cable as a temporary measure until I place an order with tradition again at the end of the month.
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These are the locating tabs on the glass, there is around 14 of these tabs. They are not strong enough to hold the glass to the frame, I think they are just there so it's easy to align the frame & the glass.
1-tabs.jpgLast edited by B5NUT; 16 March 2022, 20:28.Leave a comment:
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Hello, good afternoon, I am in a process similar to yours with the sunroof, although in my case of 2 I am going to try to get 1 good. I would like to know what those pins are that pin the frame to the glass, if you had a detailed photo I would appreciate it.Thanks Kit & John, another few things off my list that has now grown!
So got my new sunroof seal with my tradition order, so took apart the "good" sunroof that came with the car. However While I was trying to figure out how to remove the glass panel from the mechanism it became clear the rust free panel was anything but!
So this morning I spent 3 hours slowly removing the frame from the glass.
1-tools.jpg
When the main frame was removed there was still another section of the frame to remove
2-glass.jpg
Will try and remove all of the old glass adhesive with a toffee wheel
3-glass.jpg
The frame I'm going to get basted and powder coated.
4-frame.jpg
Once that's done then I'll see if I can get a glass company to glue the sections together or I'll do it myself. Thankfully there are some little tabs that hold the frame to the glass so alignment should be easy enough. So what was a simple job of fitting a new seal as turned it a bigger and far more costly job.
On a more positive note, I also got my new rear arb bushes so was able to complete the final suspension job.
5-bush.jpg
REGARDSLeave a comment:
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Thanks Kit & John, another few things off my list that has now grown!
So got my new sunroof seal with my tradition order, so took apart the "good" sunroof that came with the car. However While I was trying to figure out how to remove the glass panel from the mechanism it became clear the rust free panel was anything but!
So this morning I spent 3 hours slowly removing the frame from the glass.
1-tools.jpg
When the main frame was removed there was still another section of the frame to remove
2-glass.jpg
Will try and remove all of the old glass adhesive with a toffee wheel
3-glass.jpg
The frame I'm going to get basted and powder coated.
4-frame.jpg
Once that's done then I'll see if I can get a glass company to glue the sections together or I'll do it myself. Thankfully there are some little tabs that hold the frame to the glass so alignment should be easy enough. So what was a simple job of fitting a new seal as turned it a bigger and far more costly job.
On a more positive note, I also got my new rear arb bushes so was able to complete the final suspension job.
5-bush.jpg
Last edited by B5NUT; 15 March 2022, 14:02.Leave a comment:
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[QUOTE
Also is this correct for the boot floor, found this loop of plastic and there is a slot in the floor of the boot so you can access the warning triangle
2-correct.jpg
[/QUOTE]
YesLeave a comment:
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Here we go, found another OE jack screw as my father has the same trolly jack me and he's obviously taken a shine to one I was using and borrowed it shall we say. I know where there's at least two more so it's no problem. Still can't find my AC stuff, I will get to it though.
Sent from my SM-A115F using Tapatalk
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Yeah, I'd be kind of torn, annoyed a touched at the incompetence and inconvenience but relived that it's going to be done right in the end.
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Yes, it kind of a relief to be honest, but also annoying as I told them the Coupe screen was NLA from Audi but they insisted they got one from TPS! The only places to buy the glass is Pilkington & other glass manufactures than make screens. Going over to the depot this morning to sort this out.Leave a comment:
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That's actually worked well then IMO, as the fitter is correct, I've always maintained it's really a two man job and would take ages to do properly and I'd want the car undercover. I hope he's the guy that ends up doing yours.
It may be inconvenient but after all the effort your putting into everything else the last thing want is a bodged screen that will always leak like I had deal with on my 3B. As I've mentioned on this thread it constantly irritated me, to the point of drill drain holes in the bloody floor.
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Autoglass just turned up with an Avant screen! The fitter that turned up also had done these cars before and said it not a one man job and takes hours and would prefer the car to be at the workshop rather than outside
So they now have to order the correct screen and I have to have the car mobile.
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