My S2 coupe bit of a rebuild and repair thread.

[Tractor Dave]

You can also use string under the car. This is less accurate than the method listed by Kit but easier. Raise all four wheels. Centre steering. Use string to measure rim to rim marks made half way up wheel using a level. When you have it about right, you can mark the string and double check. A good tape measure also works but it's not so easy to read accurately. A digital measure might be good . Go for zero toe as when you drop the car it will naturally toe out slightly.
Another version of this is to clamp spirit levels to the wheels on the outside at a mid point on the wheel. Get them level and take your measurement from the level edge front and rear.

[B5NUT]

It was not condescending in the least. Only time I've seen string used used with alignment was project binky and they were talking about ackermann. I got some plastic which I've used before with basic alignment, just stuck a bit of grease between the two pieces so they can move freely. Basic alignment will be a pain but it's on the growing list

[K Simmonds]

No worries at all, I was sat here waiting for it to finish raining before getting outside and attacking the wood, I'm in between loads at the moment.

I didn't mean to make the write up sound condescending, which upon reading it back it does seem a little, but my method is quite complex and if you have the space to follow those instructions it's surprising how good you'll get it. And I didn't even touch on camber and castor.... Camber can be done with a level and straight edge, castor all you can do is aim for as much as possible. However you have to have a very flat surface to work on to stand any chance of getting it right.

If your stuck on a slop you really are a bit stuffed... I'd just use plastic tray's and string around bumpers and get it as close as I could statically in that case, you can get a pack of trays for less than fiver from somewhere like Pound Land etc.

Congratulations on the first start up, with just one minor fuel leak to tweak up, it's surprising how quickly you'll get through the other jobs.

[B5NUT]

Thanks for that Kit the write-up the way you have put it is easy enough to understand how I would go about doing it. However think I'm going to be a bit stuffed using the string method. My driveway is on a slope and at either end it's not level (it slopes then goes level) Think I'm just going to have to get the toe in/out as best as I can then take it for tracking.

Got the car started today for the first time in 11 weeks. Had a little leak from the stainless compression joints so just tightened them up a bit more and the problem was fixed. Thankfully it's the only fuel leak I found.
1-joints.jpg

Now on to a To Do list with about 60 + jobs

[K Simmonds]

I have half an hour before it's firewood time so here's the principle behind doing tracking with string, there's numerous different ways of going about it, this is simply how I do it, however I have always had the advantage of a workbench in front of the car to attach the string to and a nice flat garage floor. Also this will not be perfect, the only way of doing it super accurately would be to fabricate jigs that bolt on in place of the bumpers where one could attach the string, I've seen this done.

You need to establish two parallel line's, one each side of the car, with the car centred as best you can in between them, the lines need's to run at the same height as the wheel centres.

Measure off the same bit of metal bodywork both sides to get the car in middle, this can take a quite a while. The car also needs to be on as level a surface as possible with enough space to roll it back and forth one full wheel rotation, unless you have tracking plates under each wheel. Four cheap plastic trays can be used for this purpose, though they're obviously not as good and it will ruin them.

I fix the string to my workbench at the front and used heavy axle stands at the back. Though I think wrapping it around the bumpers and using packing could also work pretty well, however this will be less accurate.

The steering rack must be centred and the steering wheel set in the straight ahead position, it helps if one can lock it with a bit of wood cut to length and propped off the floor (which I do) or a mate sat in the car holding it will also work. We use a spring loaded device when doing tracking at work, but wood does the same job.

Once your as happy as you can be with this set up you simply measure the distance to the edge of the rim at the the front of the wheel and the back of the wheel. Using the tie rod adjusters you are aiming to get this dimension the same.

Depending on how straight your car is It should be close to the same on each axle, but worry more about getting each individual wheel correct as opposed to this dimension.

NOT front to rear, as the front and rear track widths aren't identical. I think this is where I went wrong the first time I did my Coupe, as both rear wheels ended up toed in 30 minuets or half a degree.

However I got the front very close to being right, some less reputable tyre places would have probably let it go.

Unless you have the luxury of tracking plates (or trays) to put under each wheel the car will need to be rolled back and forth one full wheel rotation in between major adjustment's and certainly on your final bit of tweaking. Even with tracking plates I do this on the final check as it helps let everything settle.

This will give you zero toe but will allow the car to be driven safely with ruining the tyres.

Though by rights both axles want to be toed in if anything, so if there's a margin of error with your measuring (your eyes only so good after all) go with as little toe in as you can achieve.

This way is probably over complex but it does work, please if anyone else reads this and can give better advice (ie Dave) do chime in!

[K Simmonds]

Yeah, it's got be a fault there then, still weird.

[B5NUT]

This is quite odd as it should behave in the opposite way. So the lighter bulb should come on with the side lights and stay on throughout the operation of the exterior lights and go off when when they're turned off. It actually kind of sounds like a bad earth of some sort and given that it's been damp in your car I'd start with checking the headlight switch connections. The lighter itself and the bulb are not electronically connected, I've just checked this as I have centre console in my conservatory, the bulb is run off the same loom as the ashtray illumination light, can you see what that's doing?

Just been out to check and the ashtray light works as normal. So I will look will look at the wiring around the lighter and see if I can see a fault or bad earth.

[K Simmonds]

Just read the rest of your updates....

Yes, the mount sits over the seal, though they always end up a touch mangled there.

I will have one of those clips you can have for free with the rear light cluster, I even know where they are will dig it out in the morning for you.

I'm trying to chill out after my phone has just wound me up but when I calm down I'll run through doing tracking with string for you, unless Dave steps in the mean time.

Interior looks fantastic BTW.

[K Simmonds]

So need help with a problem. I have put the interior car back together and connected the battery. Everything looks to work OK, but I noticed the cigarette lighter bulbs stays on, no key in the ignition and the car locked. Noticed it goes out if I switch the headlights on. Anyone heard of this issue before

Don't know or remember if this happened before I removed the centre console and it could be the bulb was blown as I don't remember the light being switched on at all.

This is quite odd as it should behave in the opposite way. So the lighter bulb should come on with the side lights and stay on throughout the operation of the exterior lights and go off when when they're turned off. It actually kind of sounds like a bad earth of some sort and given that it's been damp in your car I'd start with checking the headlight switch connections. The lighter itself and the bulb are not electronically connected, I've just checked this as I have centre console in my conservatory, the bulb is run off the same loom as the ashtray illumination light, can you see what that's doing?

[B5NUT]

Refitted the interior today. Gone is the mouldy smell and most of the dirt.
1-rear.JPG
2-front.JPG
Carpets now fit under the side plastic trims and don't bow out
3-carpet.JPG

Was going to put some fuel in the car, but it was getting late so will do that in the morning, as if there was a leak would rather fix it when I have plenty of daylight.

Even got the wheel trims on
4-wheel-trims.JPG

Sill loads of jobs to do on the car and I need to look at the alignment. Need to understand how you can do the alignment DIY style with string.

[newsh]

Also has anyone got one of these clips for sale
2-clip.jpg

I might have one of those, will have a look

[B5NUT]

So need help with a problem. I have put the interior car back together and connected the battery. Everything looks to work OK, but I noticed the cigarette lighter bulbs stays on, no key in the ignition and the car locked. Noticed it goes out if I switch the headlights on. Anyone heard of this issue before

Don't know or remember if this happened before I removed the centre console and it could be the bulb was blown as I don't remember the light being switched on at all.

[B5NUT]

They are still available from tradition, I just order one over a week ago. Was hoping it would be here this week, but got stuck in customs as there was a bunch of other parts I ordered as well.

[Bowie69]

They all get a bit destroyed there.

Live with what you have ,seals are NLA.

[jp_paul]

The mounting goes over the seal