And another stroker...(90Q) Goal: 600 HP

[bsh]

I made a 5 tooth on the crank(I use Hall sensor) and distributor as home. Been told to not use the 135, but I think there are alot of people who use it with sucsess. 60-2 is also more accurate then 5 tooth. Think it will work with all of the above.
Can help you with trigger.
If you close at the picture of the block, you can see the 2 places where I have welded with a normal welding machine mig/mag. And you must drill the head for 12 mm headbolts. Dieselblock use 12 mm bolts instead of originally 11 mm.
And I had to grind the bottom of the cylinders for the H-rods I use. You can also see that at the picture. Maybe a different brand will go clear...

[Billman]

Is it nessesary to weld thsi point at the top of the bolt there where the flange comes?

[bsh]

@Billman
I am sorry, but I couldnt understand your question. Please explain in other words, and hopefully I will understand.

@Pnanassy
I forgot that you also must weld/fabricate a flange for the water at the back of the block. Right above the transmission.

[Billman]

An image is more than 1000 words? I meant block!
It this welding necessary?

[Flat on my back]

Billman...

It is required...the oil hole in the head is much larger and needs this to make a proper seal...off to find a picture somewhere...

[Jamo]

It is required...the oil hole in the head is much larger and needs this to make a proper seal...off to find a picture somewhere...

It's needed because the 20v gasket will overlap the edge of the block without it.

The alternative is to use the diesel gasket with the water holes enlarged.

[Billman]

I found a head picture. I see what you mean.

[bsh]

Got the intake now. Looking forward to mount it

[andy112]

I've got my reservations on the ceramic coating.
I spent about GBP 200 coating my exhaust manifold, downpipe and pistons,
the manifold lasted about 4 months before the outside coating started to peel.
On the inside there was nutting left of the coating.
I took the manifold back to the company that did the application , they re did the manifold free of charge, but it lasted no longer once again.

When i recently took my engine apart- u guessed it - no sign of the ceramic coating on the pistons ..

Well it could be the specific company i used.

sorry for the late reply, check these guys out http://www.pacemaker.com.au/ceramic_coat.html theres also a company out in australia that does alot of stuff for rx7 guys and I hear great things about them but I cant find the link, I was sure I had it bookmarked. BTW bsh nice IM.

[Jamo]

sorry for the late reply, check these guys out http://www.pacemaker.com.au/ceramic_coat.html theres also a company out in australia that does alot of stuff for rx7 guys and I hear great things about them but I cant find the link, I was sure I had it bookmarked. BTW bsh nice IM.

http://www.zircotec.org/ or http://www.bmspc.co.uk/

Plasma spraying is the only long term ceramic coating I'd have.

[bsh]

Finally got the intake mounted and a new fuel pump. Will take it to the dyno and get it mapped. Will not leave the dyno until I reach 600 hp at the hubs (Dynapack)
Or if I break something...

[bsh]

Also had to cut a little in the bonnet to clear the intake

[Rusty]

Looks good, hope you make the power figures. 600bhp at the hubs is a bit mental! Not sure how that flexi pipe on the tuirbo intake will hold up, doesn't look like it's man enough to me.

[Bram]

Do your coil packs stay dry in that spot outside of the engine bay, when it rains? Would you make a picture of me how you have fitted them in that spot please?

[bsh]

@Bram
I dont know if they stay dry when it rains, because I have just moved them there. Havent driven in the rain after that. I have just made some simple brackets for the coils, and welded 2 bolts directly to the chassis to fasten the coils as a package.