My S2 coupe

[sidrick]

Looks superb

[TimE-J]

Thanks Patrick. Its great to drive it again!
Just a quick picture from today, I still need to set the KW's but just waiting for them to settle a bit until I set the final hight.

[quattrostyle]

Well done Tim!
Good luck sorting the last few bits.

[TimE-J]

It's been a little while since the last update.

Finished off the 280mm rear brake upgrade



Dropped the cheeper oil in favour of some better quality mineral to continue the running in.


Front end refitted


Wheels back on


First time back on all 4 wheels in almost 11 months.


Then parked up after a quick test drive.


After getting it MOT'ed in work today and running down to the post office to get it taxed its great to be back behind the wheel!

A while back I removed the sump to sort the issue of the crack studs fouling the sump, I noticed today that there is a small leak from the rear of the sump
I'm going to have to remove the sump and subframe again and see what's causing the leak.

35 miles down tonight, still got quite a few more to do.

With ADI only just over a week away I'm still not sure if I'm happy enough with the car yet to make the 500 mile round trip and of course 4.5 hours each way of motorway driving probably isn't the best idea to do on the bedding in engine.

I'll try and get some good mileage on the car tomorrow so I'll try and get some pictures while I'm out and about.

[andy10v]

Just pop it out, fit the one from the other end to protect the maf if you wish.

Some say the screen is also there to provide linear air flow for the sensor.

I had a damaged screen, so swapped the back one to the front, ran it for a couple of years no issues.

Other people have removed them completely

Stock v rs2 courtesy of Dave (UrS4boy)

[TimE-J]

While removing the air box again tonight I noticed the wire mesh on the MAF was damaged. I don't want to just leave this there as I don't want it to get sucked in.



Is it safe to remove the wire mesh?
What is the purpose of the mesh?
Do I need to get a new MAF?

Was hoping to get it back out on the road tonight but after a few setbacks and parts not arriving today have ment that it could be the middle of next week before its drivable.

[TimE-J]

This was the gauge on hot idle.

[TimE-J]

Thanks James, I'll grab the pressure kit from work on Monday and see what its like. The sender I've got is new so I doubt its wrong although stranger things have happened or there's a dirty contact somewhere.

[terrybullwon]

Good work, hook up a mechanical pressure gauge so you can be sure your sender is spot on.

[Greg_S]

I'll check what mine is running next time im out as I have 10w40 in mine while running in too. Not sure of reason on cylinder 3 im afraid.

[TimE-J]

Cheers for that Greg, I'm going to use a good quality mineral 10w40 for the rest of the run in and see how it goes.

I forgot to mention that at the time the engine had been sat and noticed the oil in the cylinder, cyl 3 was a BDC. I was just wondering if this could be down to how thin the oil was and the fact that the rings have not bedded in?

Any thoughts on millers 10w40 mineral?

[Greg_S]

I wouldnt be too worried about the oil pressure. Will be partly dependant on the grade of oil you are using.

On second one an air leak is likely, or could be a lazy idle stabliser valve (ISV)

[TimE-J]

I finally finished the exhaust system tonight so thought it would be a great moment to run the engine to full temp for the first time.
All in all the engine ran well. No unusual noises and no signs of any leaks or running issues.

Some issues I have though are:

-Once up to full coolant temperature with fan kicking on and off and oil temp around 80 degrees the oil pressure was around 1.6 bar which I think is a tad low although the pressure rises as soon as the throttle is touched and at around 1500 rpm the pressure is around 3.5 bar so with a fast idle the pressure is good just not so on hot idle. Is this because of the mineral oil I am using to run the engine in with? (10w40 mineral). I also noticed that when I drained the oil it was like water i.e really thin.

-Another issue is when I tried to restart the car once it was up to temperature, the first time it ran fine again but the second time the revs on idle were slightly hunting. I'll clear all fault codes and pull some codes to see what this could be. Possible air leak?

-While the oil was draining I thought I would just whip the spark plugs out again to have a look in the cylinders. All 5 plugs are nice and clean but on cylinder 3 I noticed a very small amount of oil on top of the piston. Is this normal with a rebuilt engine or do I have problems with the new valve guides/stem seals?

I'm just waiting for some bits for the rear brakes and once those turn up the car should be driving and ready to go for test.

[TimE-J]

The oil cooler is 16 row. I thought that is was better than the normal 13 row upgrade but not to big to cause any fitment issues.

[Mcstiff]

What size is the oil cooler? I'd love to go through mine like this and clean it up!