Greg_S S2 Coupe 20+ years going strong

[4WDrifter]

Where did you buy the konis?

[Greg_S]

Yeah I had Koni's fitted for the last 10 years or so and they had started to leak oil so it was a case of replacing the cartridges. I have found somewhere else with Hunter equipment to do the wheel alignment now so hoping to have booked in for that in the next few weeks.

Ive been battling with fititng a towbar on my daily after being sent the wrong wiring loom and the car then not starting to its taken far longer to complete than planned.

[4WDrifter]

After a camping weekend away I managed to spend a few hours this afternoon fitting the new Koni shocks. It took a while longer as I had to take the passenger side off again to fit the new shock as I bought a pair. All reinstalled and set 1 turn from full hard on the front. Now to booking in for wheel alignment.

When I reinstalled the Koni's I gave the bodys a coat of waxoyl before inserting them into the strut, I did this on my last set and its served them well.

A few pictures for reference. Old and new beefier tie rod adjusters.

New top mounts with the mount supports from Lago Blue to test out.

Im waiting to hear back from TTSroadsport for alignment now.

Greg,
Were these new Koni shocks 55mm and a direct replacement for OEM?

[Greg_S]

Flippin eck Greg is that carpet I see in your Garage. You must be getting old . Takes pampering the S2 to another level I must say

Yeah we had some offcuts and when I took the carpet up from one of the bedrooms I thought I’d put it to use in the garage for now. I need to put some rubber flooring or something down really

[LSG]

Flippin eck Greg is that carpet I see in your Garage. You must be getting old . Takes pampering the S2 to another level I must say

[Tractor Dave]

You are welcome

[Greg_S]

Thanks to Tractor Dave I have been able to get the wishbone sorted out now. The part you sent worked a treat. goto get booked in for alignment again now.
The old balljoint rubber got damaged in the process of removing it but it was due a change.

[Tractor Dave]

Found these in my spares box and are en route to you



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[Greg_S]

Perfect Lago Blue I got hold of some of the nuts from the s3 as @ksimmonds suggested and tightened to 65nm, however this one I hadn’t found the right on for the studs. I’ll try to get hold of some studs from the states if I can’t get them from TPS.

Hi Greg,

Re: Ball-joint to A-arm fasteners, these are the latest factory items to use with the forged arms.

a) Stud:

You're question is apt as this is a proper rated stud (it is listed in your link also); and as discussed above, splined and pressed in. To expand that just a bit, you can press them out of or into place in situ (with a nut installed, an old socket and a C-clamp) if the arm-holes are clean, anti-seized and the splines lined up:

Screen Shot 2019-01-01 at 21.01.06.png

This (ECS Tuning) photo shows the original ( P/N: 893 407 745 A ) with the VAG galv. coating. But functionally they are not strictly an Audi item and you will find non VAG non-galv equivalents such as:

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...78#post1273478

You may want to coat them with tar after the install to protect them.


b) Nut:

These exact original flanged and radial-ribbed on the flange face (also ECS photo) nuts ( P/N: N 902 856 02 ) are harder to find as they are perhaps Audi 80/90/etc. specific, and usually NLA at the dealer:

Screen Shot 2019-01-01 at 21.02.10.png

These nuts where the subject of a TSB (IIRC?) that also eliminated the washer used under the previous nut.

K Simmonds has mentioned this before but I can't find it just now, make sure the nuts are torqued (65Nm?) and going to seat onto clean bare or only lightly painted metal such that the nut's ribs can bite against the arm's surface. Note your alignment guy may have to move the joint.

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...74#post2039074

Although NLA if you are determined, perhaps you may find some using the P/N.

I did see someone say these should only be done up with the weight on the wheels but I don't agree that it would be correct to wait till then. I do them up before that.

The substitutes I've seen don't have the ribs on the flange.

Hth.

[Greg_S]

Hi Greg. If it's the one I'm thinking of, its a plate with the bolts riveted on. If you order a new bush, the plate comes with it. If you want something for a quick fix, I think I have one of my old ones knocking about which you can have. Just PM your address and I will drop it in the post for you.

That’s the one, I’ve dropped you a pm too. Thanks in advance

[Lago Blue]

Dave, they may be just fine if they are same type and sufficiently long. See how thin the forging is at the end; and they only have to go through less items without the plates and washers. You could measure the length and know.

[Tractor Dave]

Hi Greg. If it's the one I'm thinking of, its a plate with the bolts riveted on. If you order a new bush, the plate comes with it. If you want something for a quick fix, I think I have one of my old ones knocking about which you can have. Just PM your address and I will drop it in the post for you.

My mistake. Thought we were talking pressed steel (like mine).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Lago Blue]

Hi Greg,

Re: Ball-joint to A-arm fasteners, these are the latest factory items to use with the forged arms.

a) Stud:

You're question is apt as this is a proper rated stud (it is listed in your link also); and as discussed above, splined and pressed in. To expand that just a bit, you can press them out of or into place in situ (with a nut installed, an old socket and a C-clamp) if the arm-holes are clean, anti-seized and the splines lined up:

Screen Shot 2019-01-01 at 21.01.06.png

This (ECS Tuning) photo shows the original ( P/N: 893 407 745 A ) with the VAG galv. coating. But functionally they are not strictly an Audi item and you will find non VAG non-galv equivalents such as:

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...78#post1273478

You may want to coat them with tar after the install to protect them.


b) Nut:

These exact original flanged and radial-ribbed on the flange face (also ECS photo) nuts ( P/N: N 902 856 02 ) are harder to find as they are perhaps Audi 80/90/etc. specific, and usually NLA at the dealer:

Screen Shot 2019-01-01 at 21.02.10.png

These nuts where the subject of a TSB (IIRC?) that also eliminated the washer used under the previous nut.

K Simmonds has mentioned this before but I can't find it just now, make sure the nuts are torqued (65Nm?) and going to seat onto clean bare or only lightly painted metal such that the nut's ribs can bite against the arm's surface. Note your alignment guy may have to move the joint.

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...74#post2039074

Although NLA if you are determined, perhaps you may find some using the P/N.

I did see someone say these should only be done up with the weight on the wheels but I don't agree that it would be correct to wait till then. I do them up before that.

The substitutes I've seen don't have the ribs on the flange.

Hth.

[LHD_Kid]

yes, they press out - you just need to make sure you line up the serrations when you put in the replacements...

[sidrick]

On the cast/forged arm they're pressed in, no? Still I bought some of the plates on eBay and pressed out all my old ones and pressed in the new ones out of the plates when I refurbed mine. Terrifying lack of thread on the old ones!