Stroker S2

[Pat D]

Some new bits arrived today

[Pat D]

I'd cut out the middle man if I were you and order direct from JE. Here's the email address of the guy I dealt with

ndiblasi@jepistons.com

He was really helpful and always replyed to my emails straight away

It's a somewhat complicated situation, but it shouldn't be. I'm starting to get over the whole lot being held up continuously.

Cheers for the contact info

[AndyP]

Latest with the pistons:

I'm ordering a new set from JE through 034 with MY OWN specs and paying for them.

Been over a week and I'm still waiting for a response or confirmation of order.

I'd cut out the middle man if I were you and order direct from JE. Here's the email address of the guy I dealt with

ndiblasi@jepistons.com

He was really helpful and always replyed to my emails straight away

[popdemonic]

Pat,This must be a rare car in Australia since i spent a month in Melbourne and Gold Coast.I had never seen any B4 Chassis cars in Australia.
Nice Project though.I wish i have some little time to pull off my AAN and have a rebuild on her.

[Pat D]

Latest with the pistons:

I'm ordering a new set from JE through 034 with MY OWN specs and paying for them.

Been over a week and I'm still waiting for a response or confirmation of order.

[Pat D]

Those door cards look great Pat.
So you basically had to cut that "brace" off the suspension turret and then reform the AC pipe to suit?

Thats about it, grinded the brace out with a grinder and cleaned the rest of it up with a dremel, etch primer and some black epoxy.

The AC pipe was a ******* getting it to look decent. I bought a 20mm bender but it didn't really help much and ended up bending it with my hands instead. I may however get the pipe cut just before it meets the servo and have someone make up a flexible hose to go from there to look more neat. The brake lines were easily bent by hand to mate up with the position of the master cylinder.

[irishs2]

I managed to get the grinder in my freshly painted engine bay and cut the brackets out. I used a dremel to do the cuts and an angle grinder to smooth it all out. There is also another little bracket in the curved section of the strut & from memory holds a fuel line rubber mount that needs to be cut out as well.

I placed it in position and it fits perfectly, the linkage to the pedal seems spot on.
The S2 master cylinder bolts straight on to the vacuum servo and will look like it should also work fine. I measured the length of the linkage shaft on both master cylinders and they were very much the same, a couple mm difference was all that I could see.

Gave the servo a birthday, then etch primed & epoxy coated the bare metal in the engine bay. I'll fit it all in once it dries and then see if I should weld an alternative strut to firewall bracket in there.

Some pics in the process:

Here is a cross post from the other thread

[Error404]

Those door cards look great Pat.
So you basically had to cut that "brace" off the suspension turret and then reform the AC pipe to suit?

[irishs2]

Very good, nice job.

[Pat D]

Cheers mate, the new fabric on the door card is on a separate piece of MDF board. Much easier getting it retrimmed that way and easier to repair if it's damaged

[irishs2]

Great job, thanks for posting pics of the vacuum work, in this and the other thread. Much harder than LHD thats for sure.

Is that door card material on a seperate piece or did you have to go all around the slot recess to get the material to look that finished?

Great car.

[Pat D]

Fitted vacuum assist servo, brakes lines attached, A/C pipe shaped to fit and rebuilt steering rack. I'll be fitting an electric PAS pump, so no more brake bomb or belt driven pump.






Upholstered door card with black suede

[JP]

Measurement wont be far off using that method. And if already decked that would throw measurements from stock.



Welding will only work with dissimilar rod though. Not much difference to your method other than no issues when decking the block.

[Pat D]

Do you any pics of the welding that you have had done?

[Pat D]

Probably not the best way to measure the block height but I calculated it this way: Crank, rods and pistons in place. Rods 159mm + piston height 29.4mm + 47.75(half crank stroke)= 235.99mm. Then I add the distance my pistons are below deck at TDC which is 0.254mm. 235.99 + 0.254= 236.244mm. I forgot to mention it has already been decked prior to these figures and I forgot how much was taken off.

As for the welding, do you weld a piece in there or build the weld up? I originally asked the machine shop to weld but they didn't recommend it.