Stroker S2

[Pat D]

Hello! I've just been browsing through your post and saw your plans to deal with some underseal / corrosion issues around the subframe mounts...

A very good idea indeed. I have had my subframe off to get it galvanised and found trouble lurking under the underseal

I peeled some off by hand and yep, it was wet underneath and yep, corrosion was there.

Check it all and sort it in one go or else you will be back. Don't ask how I know this


The worst bits where I have had to cut metal out are where the old exhaust heat shield was fixed. Notorious rain trap and many a coupe rots there quietly and unseen.

Hi Steve,

Luckily mine doesn't look as bad and there are no holes. Still annoying having it there though, will try my luck with abrasive attachments and see how I go, hopefully no need for blasting as that would be a PITA since the car is mostly back together.

[Bowie69]

Hello! I've just been browsing through your post and saw your plans to deal with some underseal / corrosion issues around the subframe mounts...

A very good idea indeed. I have had my subframe off to get it galvanised and found trouble lurking under the underseal

I peeled some off by hand and yep, it was wet underneath and yep, corrosion was there.

Check it all and sort it in one go or else you will be back. Don't ask how I know this


The worst bits where I have had to cut metal out are where the old exhaust heat shield was fixed. Notorious rain trap and many a coupe rots there quietly and unseen.

You should never, ever, posts photos like that on this forum.

There, I said it, now you go and sit back down again

[steve briance]

sorry.

Am I allowed to post good news pictures? Repairs coming on a treat now and my overkill approach should protect it for a good few years to come

I'm working my way forward, struggling to get my diff out of the way at the moment but once that is done I will do the same sort of job on the front mounting points for subframe.

Wire brush / bilt hamber hydrate 80 rust treatment / epoxy paint / seam sealer / dinitrol ML wax / dinitrol 4941 hard under body wax and where necessary in wheel arches a bit of dinitrol 447 rubberised stone chip.

[Bowie69]

Much better, thank you

Should out last you now!

[steve briance]

Phew!

[Pat D]

sorry.

Am I allowed to post good news pictures? Repairs coming on a treat now and my overkill approach should protect it for a good few years to come

I'm working my way forward, struggling to get my diff out of the way at the moment but once that is done I will do the same sort of job on the front mounting points for subframe.

Wire brush / bilt hamber hydrate 80 rust treatment / epoxy paint / seam sealer / dinitrol ML wax / dinitrol 4941 hard under body wax and where necessary in wheel arches a bit of dinitrol 447 rubberised stone chip.

Hey Steve, did you have corrosion sneaking into the cavity of the sub frame mount with the arrows? If so, what did you do treat it? Looks like an impossible area to clean manually and the only way I can think of is to remove that piece all together, clean or replace and re weld it back on

[steve briance]

Hi Pat. I probably did have corrosion in there but as you know - it is impossible to get in to see!

I used an old bike spoke to get in through the drain hole next to where the bolt goes, I poked, scratched and scraped until dried mud and flakes of rust stopped coming out. I washed it out with a hose but be careful doing this - I had water running into a part of the chassis that runs across the car to the other side. A space heater and Compressed air to blow dry the inside and then you have options...

Dinitrol rc900 is a rust convertor spray which is meant to be good for spraying into chassis box sections to deal with stuff you can't get to. It's quite expensive though which put me off.

Dinitrol ML wax which is a really thin penetrating cavity wax which gets into seams and into the surface of the rust and is meant to stop it spreading by sealing out air and moisture. It is a watery consistency so a fair amount runs out again but it does build a surface film and builds up in areas thicker waxes don't.

I went for a good dose of ML wax then some Dinitrol 3125HS as a thicker wax to keep the dried ML safe.

That's as good as I think you can do without drilling out the spot welds and removing the mounts. My theory is the ML wax will get into the seams and stop those areas getting worse.

Total failure of these mounts is not something you tend to hear about, you do hear about rotten subframes but they unbolt so it's not big problem. I guess the e-coat the factory dips the shells into does a good job. What it doesn't do is stop dirt laden water ending up in there and drying - I was amazed at how much dust fell out and when this gets wet, it is a moisture trap until it dries out again

[Pat D]

Going DBW, 1Z pedal box pulled apart, cleaned and lubed.

[Tom_]

Really nice Pat. Like your style. Where you buy these pedal rubber ?

[Pat D]

Really nice Pat. Like your style. Where you buy these pedal rubber ?

Referring to the actual rubber pads? They're the original pads that I cleaned up really well. Pretty sure they are available on eBay though.

[Tom_]

Are brake and clutch rubber pads the same? Or its different? On the picture it looks the same

[Wizard-of-OD]

Going DBW, 1Z pedal box pulled apart, cleaned and lubed.

Do you happen to have the associated part numbers for this? Ive been looking for a DBW pedal for months with 0 luck.

[Pat D]

Do you happen to have the associated part numbers for this? Ive been looking for a DBW pedal for months with 0 luck.

I've since changed back with the S2 pedal box and did some very minor mods to fit the 1z pot carrier/bracket "console" to the s2 pedal box as the original s2 pedal box clutch pedal has 2 springs to assist with the clutch depress and has a metal bushing rather than a nylon one, along with also using the 1z accelerator pedal. I also sourced a pot from a D2 A8 which has two variable wipers inside, after measuring the 1z pot with a meter, I could only identify one wiper.

As for part numbers looks like 1z pedal box is 8A0721115D.
1Z pot console 8A0721781A

I had this console bracket in my eBay cart for a while, might be worth getting as the complete pedal boxes are really rare to find, and this is the bit that you really need along with the actual accelerator pedal.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153645919833

If you can do some mod work you can just get the 1Z console bracket that holds the pot and attach it to your original pedal box, you will however still need a 1z accelerator pedal or be able to mod your original to work, probably not that hard if you're good with a welder.

Can upload pics of what I did later on.

[Pat D]

Are brake and clutch rubber pads the same? Or its different? On the picture it looks the same

Clutch is slightly different, has a shroud on the left side, to prevent snagging on shoes I presume, apart from that they appear to be the same.

[Pat D]

Can't work out how the mechanism and motor ended up covered in so much grease and dirt, burn for days if it was lit.