Stroker S2

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  • Pat D
    replied
    Never. Wrapping. Exhaust. Manifold. Again.

    Took me all night and still not happy with it, tight clearances and wastegate outlet made things difficult



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  • Pat D
    replied
    Thought I'd add some info about the transmission bolts when going to a single mass flywheel.

    I was able to re-use all the M12 bolts by shifting them around to suit, and the only M12 I had to buy was item 6 in the pic. I ended up using a 75mm (from the head down, thread length) with a 3.5mm washer. The M10 for the starter was also re-used. The lower bolts that attach the sump all had to be replaced with shorter ones. All around 10mm shorter, but it pays to measure up the thread lengths in the block/gearbox before buying and bolting up anything.

    I also highlighted the dowel that I had to use for mating the 6 speed box to an ACV block, this may be different with other blocks.

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    Last edited by Pat D; 13 July 2013, 05:09.

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  • Error404
    replied
    Nice one Pat, looking forward to seeing is come together now

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  • stocious
    replied
    great work pat! she sure will look nice in the sun in that colour and go like stink too

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  • Avantus
    replied
    Drooling all over those pictures, lovely work!

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  • Pat D
    replied
    Some more pics for reference





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  • irishs2
    replied
    Very nice, and lucky that tip came out with the oil.

    Your engine bay photo will help me stay motivated in my project

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  • Pat D
    replied
    More progress, after a few days of cleaning the rust off the spot welds in the transmission tunnel just above the gearbox and coating with POR15 and new heat shielding I was ready to put the lump back in... Not without little dramas along the way though.

    I was right about being unsure if this tool would've been strong enough to pull the input shaft seal out and of course the tip fell inside, but luckily it came out with the first splash of oil when I drained the box. Filled it back up with TITAN Sintopoid 75-90.




    Poor pic, I used graphite spray and extra graphite powder to lube up the clutch splines and release bearing guide piece. I did the same on my B4 80 when changing the clutch, the clutch stayed smooth and light for over 80k later before I retired the car.




    Like 99% of the parts I need, I couldn't find the correct geabox locating dowel in the country so I had one turned out on a lathe for me.



    Since I couldn't go with the great master plan of using a hydraulic release bearing due to clearance issues, I settled with using the stock set up and had the flex hose that goes to the clutch slave cylinder replaced to reduce any spongy-ness that may have resulted with the old rubber factory hose.




    Ready to drop in



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    Last edited by Pat D; 7 June 2013, 10:12.

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  • Pat D
    replied
    Originally posted by AndyP
    Are you sure the bonnet is going to shut using a phenolic spacer on the stroker engine?
    I'm not sure, I may just leave the mani finger tight and size it up when it's ready to go in and see how far up it sits.

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  • AndyP
    replied
    Are you sure the bonnet is going to shut using a phenolic spacer on the stroker engine?

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  • Pat D
    replied
    Little more progress





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  • Pat D
    replied
    Finally have the block back home

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  • TimE-J
    replied
    Really coming along well now! Really looking forward to seeing the finished build.

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  • JP
    replied
    In order to not polute this thread I'll put an info post up re o-ringing.

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  • butchone
    replied
    where are the rings supplied from? custom made? and is the head done?

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