Awesome car! Well done on achieving your goals for this season. You do some very nice videos awell.
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Anders - S2 Avant Clubsport - 8pots or die!
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Took the car inside yesterday and started to take it apart. Now I'm going to continue. Hopefully I've taken the engine apart tonight and get to measure it through.
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Hi, can you tell me ,what belt you have used? I saw that you have removed this aircondition compressor. I am doing the same ,but can not find this belt.
BTW good job, keep on going (Y)Comment
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It's just a generic ribbed belt that was the right length. Got it from a car part market
Lock the tensioner to the maintenance position and then run a piece of cord the way it goes in that picture of mine, then measure the loop you need and add about 20mm to the length to be able to get it on the wheels..Comment
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A slight setback I noticed yesterday. I don't even want to speculate what caused this, so let's not.
A new tappet has to be bought and either try to fix the cam or buy a new one...... ffs.
On other news, the bottom end of the engine is in perfect shape, at least visually. I will start measuring the clearances etc. wednesday.Comment
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Thank you for your help))Comment
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The engine measurements have been done.
There's a few hundreths of millimeters too much clearance in the conrod bearings, being at 0.10-0.11mm. Conrod bearings are going to be changed. Main bearings have a bit of wear to them, although clearances are ok.
The biggest problem of all in the bottom half is that the conrod small ends have taken some beating and deformed. The lower half of the eye has started to push out from the rod itself and the clearance has grown to around 0.03mm on the bearing ends. The bearings are pretty much in the correct clearance in the middle of the bearing. The top half of the eye still had the honing pattern visible, so the wear was only on the bottom half. This tells me it's not rpm-caused. The rods are now being fitted with new small end bearings. My rods are a set of unbranded chinese rods, so I'm suspecting the material of the small end bearing was not the best possible and I think there might have been some axial misalignment between the pin and big end bearing. The clearances were checked when the engine was put together two years ago.
As suspected, the piston to head clearance was a lot higher than it has to be. This is probably the reason why the engine was so knock-prone with gasoline. For some reason the piston-rod assemblies have a different height, which has to be corrected now. The lowest piston only comes 0,06mm over the deck while the highest comes 0,20mm. I measured some 0,05mm differences in the piston pin to piston top heights, so that counts for the problem only partly. The conrod eye-to-eye length will be corrected with the new small end bearings. Once I get my rods, I will measure the piston-rod assembly lengths with different rods and pistons and try out them in different cylinders. Once I have the differences leveled to as small as possible, I will then decide how much there will be cut down from the block deck, based on the lowest piston. Piston tops will be machined to count for the differences. I will try to get the piston to head clearance to 0,80mm, within 0,05mm between cylinders. The piston heads will undergo combustion chamber measurements after the machining. I will also deburr and buff the edges thoroughly.
Rods and pistons will be weighed and matched before they go into balancing.
I measured the head combustion chambers and they are all within a milliliter or two at around 46ml. I will measure them again once more just to make sure.
I sold my old Tilton clutch together with the flywheel it was bolted into. I will probably make a new flywheel with slightly different design and get a new Tilton.Comment
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Moral of the story... Not all China rods are created equal and never be soo quick to blame VEMS, or any other ECU for that matter, for a problem that could've been corrected mechanically....
Well that's my take away from the story soo far...
Keep us posted, love your car!!!!
Sent using Tapatalk for AndroidLast edited by mushasho!; 3 March 2013, 19:20._RubÃ_
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Uhm.. VEMS and the knock have nothing to do with eachother... The problems I had with vems are vems' triggering and functionality related and have nothing to do with any mechanical features on the engine.
You mustve understood something wrong.
Some Carrillo rods have had the same symptoms under heavy loads, so it's not a material quality issue alone.Comment
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Perhaps I read too quickly through it back when you posted about the issue... Carry on...
Sent using Tapatalk for Android_RubÃ_
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Has anyone ever taken apart urs4 or other similiar instrument panel to the extent of removing the dial on the rpm gauge? What kind of construction does it have? Is it possible to replace the original dial with another one and still keep the function?Comment
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Things have moved on quite a bit.. And all the time the project swells up like a sponge. Parts are going to be replaced etc..
Conrods had slightly worn small ends so I lathed new bearings from Ampco alubronze. And once they were done and honed to the rods, I decided to put another set in. Sold the old flywheel with the old Tilton clutch and now my flywheel is in the state of a laser cut 40mm steel billet.. Also the clutch discs need to be re-splined. Piston wrist pins are going to have to be replaced.. I will also replace the piston rings.. So there's quite a bit going on at the moment.. The block is waiting for the correct height, which is defined when I get the new conrods. The balancing is waiting for the conrods and pins..
Cams are still on the drawing board, not sure what to do with them. What's decided though is that I will not put the same pair in again. They are steel billet cams and they will not withstand the beating they get. At this point my options are:
1012449 cat cams, the same profile as the old ones (1002449) but made from cast iron.
pros:
- No need to change the follower setup, most likely no need to adjust lash caps too much. I have a selection of them, most likely enough to be able to make the lenghts needed
- Well documented charasteristics and proven function in my setup
- Cast iron cams
cons:
- Price and delivery time
Custom ground cams from stock cams or e.g. 7A (if there's more to work with)
pros:
- Custom profile, possibility to change cam setup to better suit my needs, maybe slightly less degrees and lift?
- Cheap price
cons:
- No material to do as rough cams as the CatCams were, a bit worried about this
- Followers will have to be redone as the base circle of the cam will be ground to a minimum
- Problems with the small base circle
Completely custom cams from ball graphite cast iron
pros:
- Complete customisation possible
- Can do most of the pre-grinding work at home, so price is pretty ok'ish
- All charasteristics of the cams would be optimal, no need to sacrifice with compromising
cons:
- A. Lot. of. work. I mean a shitload
- The correct 800-series ball graphite bar is hard to findComment
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Any updates?Comment
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A lot to update, but only when it's all done.... A lot of changes.Comment
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