Just another AAN build

[JP]

With ring gap if it is too large compared to spec on sheet. Normally top ring 17thou, 2nd ring 18thou and oil ring 16thou it means either piston to bore clearance is too big because has been overbored to box size not measured piston size or rings not sitting square in bore. Use 1 piston upside down to push rings into bore if you don't have proper tool. Unless they supply wrong rings but this is very very rare.

[Hammu]

I mailed JE about this and got answer quite soon.

For your application you would want to use the following.

Top ring- 3.209 X .0055" = .018"
2nd ring- 3.209 X .0065" = .021"

A little more gap on the 2nd ring as you are seeing is no issue.
Please excuse our guideline sheet. First off this sheet is only a
guideline, not a spec or manual.
We are currently working on updating it.
The rings that you have are Carbon Steel, which will expand a little
more than other ring materials.

[Hammu]

Got some stuff done today.

Mainly crank and block oil&water channel cleaning, but also got pistons and rods together.



For comparison, stock piston and special S-profile rod






Some useless pics about block cleaning.
Lots of brake cleaner and brushing with different drills.








And crank cleaning...








Some gearbox speed calculations with 7krpm rev limiter.


5-spd box converted to 6-spd.
Original 5th gear tossed away and built with 6-speed box 5th and 6th gears.
Box still without torsen...


...Because of this torsen mod testing.

[stocious]

What's the mod on the Torsen?

Is it performance mod?

Or overhaul? If so I'd love to see pics, great work

[Hammu]

Pretty much a performance mod, idea is to have more rear wheel biased power distribution.

Lots of information can be found, just google "torsen mod"

[JP]

That particular torsen mod doesn't do anything. Been there done it. I run a modified torsen for more rear bias and I didn't have ti change any of the washers. Neither do any of the main tuner companies. Only problem I have is for me to do another one I need to take my own one out and copy it as even with the instructions I wrote I couldn't do it again on the spare one I have .

Rest of build looking good though

[Hammu]

JP, I don´t understand how you can modify torsen without changing the washers.
As i have understood, torsen bias changing is based on different friction of different materials, also height of the washers has a part in that.

There is already one modded torsen being tested at snow, which really does not affect me as my car is only driven in summer.
I think it gets bit too oversteering for snow, but in asphalt with good grip you could get faster and better out of corners.
Second modded torsen is going to be tested as soon as possible with semi-slicks in a racetrack.
Hopefully in a month, if the snow melts away.

I am running 245/35 + 285/30 tyres, without rear swaybar (going to add apikol swaybar kit later) so grip is really not a issue.

The stock torsen have a 2:1 ratio.
Also with these old gearboxes, you have T1 torsen, which cannot be modified so much as T2 or T3 torsens. Or that is what others say. Dunno really.
T2 and newer torsens can be modified to 4:1.
Older T1 torsen can be modified at least 3:1, that is why we are testing with different washers and materials.
It is impossible to measure the real bias change, but we just have to test which one is the best for each individual use.

It is not much, but it´s something.

[JP]

Torsen bias is adjusted through rhe timing of the gears allowing them to load up differently by how they mesh

[Error404]

Just use a T3 torsen - static 40:60 bias and 4:1 ratio

[Thuppu]

Got some stuff done today.

For comparison, stock piston and special S-profile rod

Nice one!

[quattro20v]

So this s-profile rod is a stage 2 rod?

[Hammu]

So this s-profile rod is a stage 2 rod?

Luckily no, that is from other car

[fatiii]

What was the hp this car? or turbo and boost?

For comparison, stock piston and special S-profile rod

[Ruffiano]

are the head cracks within spec?

[Hammu]

are the head cracks within spec?

Yes, easily.


Today we got something done.

Again, cleaning. This time final cleaning.



Block ready for parts.



Prepared main bearings and ARP main bearing studs + ARP moly grease.


After a moment i was in this situation.



All seems to be ok, so crank can be installed.
Axial bearings almost in place, right one just needed to be pushed a little.






Then i had a little brainfart.
Maybe piston oil squirters should be installed before crank
Luckily they were easy to put in after crank.


Anyway, i aligned piston rings, did final checking and we put pistons + rods in.
Stock piston comes about 0,8mm over deck if i remember correctly, JE:s 0,1 or 0,2mm.