Looks good mate. Have you now given it some redlne treatment??
My "Stroker" project
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Tom C - www.rcmr.co.uk
Audi UR Quattro
Audi 100 C3 2.0 5 cyl 115ps
Audi S2 - 07k engine project aiming for 800ps
Audi B5 RS4 645ps 911nm -
I've been adviced to keep the oil level in center of the min and max mark. This should make the engine breath a bit less. It probably works. I'm having 5-7k km oil change interval and don't need to fill between changes. The engine is rebuilt 30k km ago.-Comment
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Tom, didn't rev up to rev limiter yet. 7000 rpm on the thaco quite a few times, that's it. I actually don't like when hitting the limiter. I also am a little concerned about the turbocharger (don't want to force it in the choke line), so I usually try to light the throttle up a bit past the 6000 rpm. But this isn't so easy to perform, expecially in the lower gears.....
The car feels nice and strong. I bet with a finer remap Mihnea could get the turbocharger to kick in even a couple hundred rpm earlyer... :mischeif:
I'm looking forward to the GT30R
..... but I hope I won't miss the low rpm behaviour of the actual setup. I guess with a good tubular EM and a well designed front mount TB IM the boost treshold shouldn't move up in the rev too much. Even assuming a good overall VE I don't think the 2.5L can run up to full boost (1.7-1.8 bar) the GT30R untill 3400-3500 rpm.
@ Porkkis, good to know. That's exactly the conclusion at which I came. Only problem I have noted in the OEM engine was that when level went close to the lower mark, hydraulic lifters started to make evident tapping noise after a trash.
Anyway, anyone knows what Audi indicates as total oil amount when changing oil and filter?
MarcoComment
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HI marco
I have a few questions if you don't mind giving some of your time.
which water pump did you use?
Can I use a standard 2.2L/2.3L crank shaft in the eurovan block?
thanks
JoshI chose not to choose life: I chose something else. And the reasons? There are no reasons. Who need reasons when you've got quattro?Comment
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No problem Josh. I always find time for the forum members. I'll be glad to help if I can.
Unfortunatly I don't have enaugh infos about the "eurovan" block to give an answer, so someone else might have more infos. IIRC I must have read somewhere the eurovan block doesn't have the oil throws but, apart from that, I belive all the main bearing and clearance dimensions should perfectly match the 86.4mm stroke crankshaft. You of course will need to check cylinder hight compared to OEM S2/RS2 to match piston compression height and conrods lenghts.
MarcoComment
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nice work.i have to do like pisobiker
have done the head,with cams.have to order the pistons
,but i have longer conrods,and shorter stroke(94,5) :mischeif: .... the parts cost money,so i have to use the bread and milk money
it will take some time to fix the engine
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ALL the 2,2 AND 2,3 parts are commen in the bearings,and fitnes: BUT you have to remember the higher deck on the dieselverson.... if you use the 86,4 cranck in the diesel,you can have some REALLY longer conrods.... about 165mm...then you get some really high revs on the engine, at the track......i will rekomend the dry sump lubrication,if you rev over 7500 over a long time....
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Hi marco.
I forgot your engine is from an audi. Opps.
I also just realized something. I would want to keep the eurovan crank? Here's where I am getting confused.
I am going through quite a few stages with my current project. First it's starting off as a naturally aspirated 2.3L 7a motor with a 3b intake manifold and throttle body. Standalone engine managment too.
I've been reading alot about 16v engine and what owners have been doing here in the states. With boost applications they been taking VW 2.0L 8v bottom ends and installing 16v heads. This combo gives around 8.1-8.5:1 compression. The vw 2.0L aba engine is a 236mm tall block. It has 159mm rods with 21mm wrists and 48mm rod journals. There are sooooo many 2.0L vws around me. If I were to bust a rod it would be such an easy fix. Now I know of a couple of guys allready running the audi NG/NF naturally aspirated bottom end as a way of dropping compression with a 20v head. It works and there is no issuses except for well lasting a long time. Needless to say if the combo worked it would be easy for a company like pauter/arrow to send me rods etc. Some guy out there must of asked a rod company for 8v boosted rods?
The only issuse is the pistons. They are 82.5mm pistons on the 8v and the eurovan block bore is 81mm. I actually could put bushing in the wrist but it will mess with the hmm.. I forgot the name of the word... but it's important quelch zone?
Edit: I forgot to mention why I could put bushing in the wrist. I could use 16v 1.8 pistons to get a lower compression. The piston would sit lower and that would be the issuse. At this point that's too many bottom ends/pistons to mess with anyways. I rather have a machine shop bore it out to 82.5.
At this pt with building cars I have realized I need to stick with buying parts in my own country. I am not afraid of custom projects anymore. If anything I will be saving tons of money.
I can get a eurovan bottom end for around $400.00 from a junk yard that is in the next town over from me. I also can source the vw pistons and rods from my favorite junk yards.
I need to figure out if I can use this combo?
Thanks
Josh
ABA 82.5 92.8 1984 48 159 21 30.9 14.61 236 10:1Last edited by Josh-stateside; 23 February 2005, 22:54.I chose not to choose life: I chose something else. And the reasons? There are no reasons. Who need reasons when you've got quattro?Comment
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I agree. When are you coming to the UK to show us your masterpiece?Originally posted by JamoThis is the most amazing project i've seen, would be lovely if we could get PisoBiker over to the u.k for a Castle Combe event!
I'd gladly chip in for some fuel money if it helped you to get here.SSComment
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the mostly IL5 parts will fit in a 2,0 or a 1,8 ,4syl.....even the intake of a 5syl will fit a 2,0 16v if you veld ONE intake/cut avay....conrod and piston will fit too....Comment
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Josh, as Caterpillar say I also have found very many Audi-VW engine parts can be easily swapped around one another, but you of course need to match the right parts together. I'll suggest you put down a "stand-points" plan, similar to the one I've posted at the beginning of this thread. Then you can verify all the parts you will need for it, and eventually change plan if you find problems:
lets see if I can explain what I mean a little better.
Lets suppose you say:
1)95.5 mm stroke;
2)OEM 2.2L 20V turbo block;
3)OEM 2.2L 20V turbo pistons;
4)160mm center to center conrod lenght
5).....
etc. etc.
Now supposing you can source a 95.5mm stroke crankshaft which will fit the OEM 20V turbo block (probably only with some small adjustment on the cylinder bottom area for clearing conrod stem during crank rotation) then #1) and 2) are verified.
At this point #3) and #4) will be strictly related each other, if you want to keep #3 then #4 will need to be around 140 mm, while if you keep #4 you will need pistons with 20mm lower compression height compared to OEM ones (which in this case won't work. OEM is 32.8mm, so 12.8 IMHO just won't be enaugh to accomodate the rings). You then might find out it could be easyer and cheaper to source a tall block.
So once found a problem you might change one of the previous choices to fix it and start all over from there.
Once done you should have a good view of the main features your project should have.
@ Audilard. I told you you would have regretted for not having stopped by me...
just kidding. Might find another chance in a near future.
@ the UK friends: it would be really nice if I could come over there, but it is only marginally a matter of costs. It also is amatter of time and ... family (my son is still too joung). I still need to do lots of work to have my project finished, so we anyway might still have some time for eventually organizing something in the future
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MarcoComment
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