Please dont shoot me !

[Bowie69]

Dunno, mine is open, and I don't track it, nor have anything to compare it to

[R5T]

Ahh fair play buddy, in terms of the standard locker, it's fairly predictable in terms of traction and when it's going to step out, I've disabled the 15mph cut out, just don't know how delicate the locking mech is.


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[afterburner]

As long as you let it engage fully (by driving in a straight line when locking it) it's pretty much bulletproof

[andy10v]

As long as you let it engage fully (by driving in a straight line when locking it) it's pretty much bulletproof

Stock diffs are very strong when locked, the v8 torsen is much more fragile, but nice to drive.

If its just for drifting then keep the stock, lock it when you get to the track for predictable sideways action, but you wont destroy tyres the rest of the time.

[R5T]

This is the benefit glad to hear they are reliable and strong ! I haven't engaged it whilst moving yet, still don't want to chance it, even when driving dead straight !

Sam


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[afterburner]

That's how you should engage it actually (in motion). If you try doing it while standing still the teeth may not engage at all, because they are not moving.

[Bowie69]

Don't do it on the road, especially in the wet, until you have tried it in anger somewhere much safer

[R5T]

Ahh maybe at low speeds then ? And ahh .. I have .. It's predictable .. In the wet .. Lots of understeer.. Hoof it and go sideways as long as you want.

It's surprisingly controllable and predictable ..


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[andy10v]

I have locked and unlocked it at about 70mph, I just lifted of the throttle and back on gently and it engages.

Not exactly something I would advise though.

If you lock/unlock when you are stationary if they teeth are not lined up it will engage as soon as they line up when you move off as long they are not under too much load. The collar does not seem to disengage under heavy load, hence the lift/reapply throttle if you want to unlock on the go.

Be aware as well as going sideways nicely, if you get it wrong the locked diff can push you straight on!

[R5T]

Oh I know ! I've tried driving it locked normally, and have to slow down an extra 10mph for corners I usually don't have to. The understeer is catastrophic hah !


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[R5T]

Afternoon all ! ... Just a quickie .. Has anyone got any tips for an easy and safe way to secure a V6 front bumper without the brackets ? .. I have the brackets .. But the plastic mount/block that the brackets fit to on the bumper have sheared off both sides, I've tried re-locating the brackets however they get in the way of the fog lamp fitting and the brackets don't line up ..

Any suggestions ?

Sam


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[R5T]

Right .. Bit of help on diagnoses needed ! ...

Out of the blue I've got transmission "jolt" .. It's hard to say where it's coming from but everytime I come off or re-apply the throttle when in gear it feels as if it is taking a moment to take up slack, this is followed by a "jolt" .. It's also become quite stuff getting into second from first, however not wen coming down the box. All engine mounts are solid, gearbox mounts seem usual, and so do the subframe mounts. There are no obvious signs of leakage from anywhere, but I'm really puzzled. There is no clutch slip and it still pulls fine in all gears with no whining.

Any pointers ?

Sam


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[Bowie69]

Rear diff mount and/or prop bearing. Could be snub mount, but not as noticeable as you seem to be suggesting. Give you have been hooning it about my bet would be rear diff mount....

Check the hydraulics for the clutch, sounds like either master or slave is getting lazy, or there is air in the system.

[R5T]

Are the master and slave easy to access in these to bleed through ? And will the rear diff mount be obvious if inspected ? And what exactly is the snub mount ?


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[Bowie69]

Snub mount is on the front of the engine and engages with the front crossmember, stops the drivetrain shunting forwards, but also counters engine rock under acceleration/braking.

Rear diff mount, crawl under, and on the back of the diff look for this bolted to the back of the diff:



That one is a little worn maybe, but not bad nick, mine had collapsed so much there was about 2" of movement in it, made a nice banging sound

Clutch master is easy enough to get to, but it is a long time since I looked even where the slave is(back when I changed the gearbox about 8 years ago), but IIRC they are a little tricky being sort of on top of the gearbox. I think RH side as you look at the engine, about 2 O'clock.