Project Lazarus

[S2central.net]

Then it was the last loom in the bulkhead on this side of the car - 'vehicle loom 2' as I called it - this one is a bit annoying as you need a bit more disassembly on left front side to get the connector for one of the washer pumps off.

I started out by removing the inner wing (aka splash guard) figuring that I would needing to loosen the water bottle in order to get the plugs off.

4730 - then realised there is a little bracket above the connector plug - amazingly the fixings aren't seized up either
4731 - better view of the stupid bracket that wedges the connector in
4732 - off it goes
4733 - bit fiddly getting the horn plugs off and fairly crusty fixings down here too

The loom then pulls through into the cabin without much drama - just check that any more clips in the engine bay are opened.

[S2central.net]

Attention then turned to the procon-ten cables. Firstly on the left side...

4734 - starting point
4736 - on the inside, I thought I would be able to unscrew the bracket and pull the cable through into engine bay, but the black plastic is too big for that
4737 - so don't do this - it needs to go the other way
4738 - follow the cable through the beefy corner brackets and unpick those red clips from the bracket
4740 - bit fiddly getting the clips out - they have only been there for 25 years - I unpicked them all on both sides - the heavy one is for the steering column
4741 - four bolts on each side get the proton-ten brackets off - I couldn't extract the steering column cable without removing the bracket
4742 - this is vaguely how the cables sit on the car - they cross over via a bracket at the gearbox (not shown)

I didn't actually photo where the steering column cable connects - its quite mad with the corrugated sections of column that would be compressed in the event of a frontal impact that is heavy enough to push the gearbox backwards. Fairly mad stuff alright.

[S2central.net]

Last bit of cable - this is the hefty feed cable from battery that tracks up right side of the car, through the bulkhead and into the front chassis leg where it pops out near the alternator location.

4763 - inside view
4765 - bit of tape is convenient marker for fitment position
4766 - engine side - similar tape marking for distance
4767 - grommet comes out easy enough
4768 - these red grommets fit to the subframe or engine mount - I had them on the cable so as not to lose them, but they need removed so the connector tail can be pulled through
4769 - out it pops inside the cabin

[S2central.net]

Tonights fun was getting the column & pedal box out - reasonably fiddly - hard to imagine doing this with the engine installed.

4774 - one clamp bolt at the bottom of the column and two long bolts at the top secure it to the chassis and that clears out loads of space
4775 - there is a spring and a bearing in that white plastic bracket which connects to the pedal box. I kept this bracket attached but regretted it later as I damaged the bearing sliding the pedal box off
4776 - hard to see the throttle cable but it comes out easy enough - squeeze the clip/grommet from the inside to help it out towards the engine - then ping out the pin from the brake pedal

4779 - unbolt the pin securing the clutch pedal to the master cylinder
4787 - from engine side, remove the union fitting for the clutch
4781 - and pop the supply pipe off the hydraulic reservoir
4779 - remove the two 6mm headed Allen bolts and the clutch cylinder can be removed, pulling that Flexi hose into the car

4782 - to get the brake cylinder off, need to remove that rusty heat shield for access to the pipe fittings
4783 - you don't need to worry about the upper hose for the servo connection...
4789 - as long as you disconnect if from this T connection under the steering rack
4790 - unbolt the lower servo connection on the brake cylinder
4785 - unbolt the two brake lines form the cylinder
4777 - there are three bolts through the bulkhead for the master brake cylinder - a long extension with 13mm socket is adequate
4793 - brake cylinder removed

4778 - two bolts are only thing left holding the pedal box to the chassis
4794 - pedal box removed, just showing the lower part of the column
4795 - more corrugated column and a surprisingly soft rubberised mount to the rack - wondering if a beefier one is available

4796 - this allowed the big heavy sound proofing from under the dashboard to be removed - lots of glue used on that in the factory - yeuch

[S2central.net]

Some more pics - that white plastic bracket on the column with the film-flam bearing is 894 419 683 B

4798 - the column bearing & bracket
4802 - brake master cylinder & servo
4803 - side view (the bungs are to prevent any leaks while I have it stored)
4804 - the pedal box - quite an impressive & modern looking assembly for 1993
4806 - clutch master cylinder - the seal at one end was pretty much end of its tether - lucky it never failed on me
4807 - steering column (tywrap holding on the little bottom spring to remind WTF it goes)
4809 - ginger space invader

[S2central.net]

Seemingly the bearing can be sourced separately as 431 419 489 - meanwhile the white plastic housing is not listed separately - well this is a 7zap view of course - not looked on the unofficial family album.

[S2central.net]

So while I complete the drastic strip down process I cannot help start asking myself some of the harder questions. Answers to those will help finalise what goes in the 'for sale' boxes and what goes into storage for rebuilding phase. It also helps me set sensible targets for WTF I want to try and achieve with the build process.

On basis this is going to be a track-day car with maybe the odd hillclimb or sprint event (if I get my driving skills anything like up that level) - I want to keep options open for it remain road legal even if highly modified - I have finally found an sensible insurance company who will make that an affordable option on very limited miles etc. I won't be going for monster power - I have no real interest in drag strips and bigger turbos bring more lag etc.

RS2+ level of performance with max 400bhp / 400lbft is going to be plenty enough for me - I want it spooling quickly with lots of low/mid range torque.
I want the drivetrain to be capable of more so its super robust and will accommodate further engine upgrades at a later date should I ever take the notion.

As a base, to set the scene I am punting for a T45 multi-point cage and accompanying re-inforcements so the chassis is super strong, stiff and safe.

Then I am reckoning on a set of tubular / custom subframes and accompanying suspenders from likes of AK Motorsport in Poland.

For transmission I am going for strength and robustness with the Getrag 0A3 box from RS4 - it has the Rear biased T3 centre diff and has nice close ratios. It also has same final drive ratio (4.111) as OE. This can take an LSD front diff upgrade as well e.g WaveTrac. I will need one of Aarons lovely looking conversion kits for the 0A3. I will probably look to copy the path Diesel Des has taken with the plate style LSD rear diff he has from Gripper. Thats a straight upgrade on AYV rear diff from any B3/B4Q. An alternative idea is LSD upgrade on a B7 RS4 rear diff, but that mounts differently to the subframe so swings & roundabouts.

This begs some questions then:

1. ABS - its heavy and takes up loads of space - I am thinking to remove that - its not exactly the most advanced system - any reasons not to do this ?

2. For MOT I will need to retain handbrake - so I would like the best bolt on rear brake upgrade - theres my 8E0 based 300x22 conversion, but I see a B5 RS4 option too - what is best ?

3. In an ideal world, I would like the car to look more like a rally/race/time-attack car with something like the wide body kit from ACM in Sweden - ignoring the huge cost of that I think it only looks right with their fibreglass doors - are we looking at custom trim work and such to make those aftermarket doors water tight - well water tight enough to sustain a wet days racing in Ireland - not to sit outside all year long ?

4. Motronic or Standalone - obviously the power levels I have in mind can be achieved with the MAF, but that is Achilles heel on this engine and I am seriously thinking about the MAFless conversion provided by PRJ so I can keep the best parts of Motronic and maps that I am mostly familiar with. There is a launch control option on that path which would be nice for hillclimbs. Or do I go all out with a stand-alone ECU ?

5. In a moment of madness I even started to wonder about sourcing an 07K engine for this - its lighter for a start and the ABY is getting super rare these days - where is best place to find trustworthy info on the 07K engine variants and ECU / tuning options for that - is it just a deep money pit of 3rd party upgrades and even higher risk ?

6. Brake servo - I see a lot of people going for various vacuum assisted servos - I see the upside of that with a simpler hydraulic pump and no need for the damned bomb - any significant downsides ?

[diesel des]

See my comments in your quote Paul.

So while I complete the drastic strip down process I cannot help start asking myself some of the harder questions. Answers to those will help finalise what goes in the 'for sale' boxes and what goes into storage for rebuilding phase. It also helps me set sensible targets for WTF I want to try and achieve with the build process.

I found this difficult with my urq. My decision was made up when it came back with a bridges paint job.

On basis this is going to be a track-day car with maybe the odd hillclimb or sprint event (if I get my driving skills anything like up that level) - I want to keep options open for it remain road legal even if highly modified - I have finally found an sensible insurance company who will make that an affordable option on very limited miles etc. I won't be going for monster power - I have no real interest in drag strips and bigger turbos bring more lag etc.

RS2+ level of performance with max 400bhp / 400lbft is going to be plenty enough for me - I want it spooling quickly with lots of low/mid range torque.
I want the drivetrain to be capable of more so its super robust and will accommodate further engine upgrades at a later date should I ever take the notion.

Sounds sensible enough. A well setup car with 400 bhp is fast and very useable. Something like a gt28 gen 2 with the 60mm or 63, or 67 mm would do this very well. But remember increased displacement with a stroker allows more power with the same lag...

As a base, to set the scene I am punting for a T45 multi-point cage and accompanying re-inforcements so the chassis is super strong, stiff and safe.

Then I am reckoning on a set of tubular / custom subframes and accompanying suspenders from likes of AK Motorsport in Poland.

Definitely talk to Albert at ak motorsports. He did me a package price for all the suspension bits Inc the fancy arms with rose joints and kw3 suspension. My urq handles well and isn't too stuff.

For transmission I am going for strength and robustness with the Getrag 0A3 box from RS4 - it has the Rear biased T3 centre diff and has nice close ratios. It also has same final drive ratio (4.111) as OE. This can take an LSD front diff upgrade as well e.g WaveTrac. I will need one of Aarons lovely looking conversion kits for the 0A3. I will probably look to copy the path Diesel Des has taken with the plate style LSD rear diff he has from Gripper. Thats a straight upgrade on AYV rear diff from any B3/B4Q. An alternative idea is LSD upgrade on a B7 RS4 rear diff, but that mounts differently to the subframe so swings & roundabouts.

Do you think you will really need a front diff? I can't feel any issues with the open diff in the front of the urq. Maybe if you were looking for every 0.01 second. Maybe it's just the nature of the 0A3 putting most of the power to the rear by default.

This begs some questions then:

1. ABS - its heavy and takes up loads of space - I am thinking to remove that - its not exactly the most advanced system - any reasons not to do this ?

I got rid of mine. Not really an issue for a motorsports type car.

2. For MOT I will need to retain handbrake - so I would like the best bolt on rear brake upgrade - theres my 8E0 based 300x22 conversion, but I see a B5 RS4 option too - what is best ?

I'm using transporter van rear calipers and 310 disks. Plenty of rear brakes and cheep. Just made up a few brackets with steel plate. Not a big job. If it stops the *** of a van with 3 ton, it's fine for a track car I reckon.

3. In an ideal world, I would like the car to look more like a rally/race/time-attack car with something like the wide body kit from ACM in Sweden - ignoring the huge cost of that I think it only looks right with their fibreglass doors - are we looking at custom trim work and such to make those aftermarket doors water tight - well water tight enough to sustain a wet days racing in Ireland - not to sit outside all year long ?

4. Motronic or Standalone - obviously the power levels I have in mind can be achieved with the MAF, but that is Achilles heel on this engine and I am seriously thinking about the MAFless conversion provided by PRJ so I can keep the best parts of Motronic and maps that I am mostly familiar with. There is a launch control option on that path which would be nice for hillclimbs. Or do I go all out with a stand-alone ECU ?

Your the motronic man so stay with that? Definitely bin the MAF

5. In a moment of madness I even started to wonder about sourcing an 07K engine for this - its lighter for a start and the ABY is getting super rare these days - where is best place to find trustworthy info on the 07K engine variants and ECU / tuning options for that - is it just a deep money pit of 3rd party upgrades and even higher risk ?

Look at Hank iroz in the USA. On projectpad

6. Brake servo - I see a lot of people going for various vacuum assisted servos - I see the upside of that with a simpler hydraulic pump and no need for the damned bomb - any significant downsides ?

I'm running no sero and a proper peddle box. Brakes are fine with proper pads.

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

[S2central.net]

Thanks Des - thats very helpful. The comment on the front diff is especially worthwhile - I will need to be going very rapidly before I start worrying about an exotic front diff.

Bit intrigued about running no servo - is that a normal thing with a 'proper' motorsport pedal box - presumably the master cylinder is oversized compared to a road car application so you don't need servo assistance ?

Love the no glitter approach to rear brakes too !

[S2central.net]

A quick skim across that projectpad site on the 07K conversion gets kind of eye-watering - I am of the feeling it would take maybe 3X the price to do that nicely versus price of bolt on parts to my ABY engine.

Some known things to take care of - assuming specialist supplier / fabricator :

- Suitable oil sump & baffling for longitudinal operation
- Custom engine mounts for B3/B4 5cyl engine bay
- Custom flywheel & bellhouse adapter for 0A3 gearbox
- Something funky for starter motor as well to cater for flywheel mods
- TTRS (esque) manifolds, turbo & related custom pipework to live in B3 application

Given its a proper VVT engine - that needs either the factory ECU (along with whatever umpteen other controller required to be connected for that to work), or a stand-alone ECU, but what options exist for ECUs with VVT control and how is availability of trustworthy base maps on those ?

I don't expect the hydraulic pump from 07K is going to be compatible with ABY steering rack either so could be looking at an electrically powered hydraulic pump - that is actually good from point of view of reducing parasitic loss on the engine, but its more time, cost, complexity blah.

[diesel des]

Like most thinks it can be done Paul, and it is a more modern and "better" engine, but the old school 5 banger is still a winner in my view.

As for the no servo peddle box setups, I have never seen one with a servo on a proper rally car/ track car. You end up with 3 master cylinders, clutch, front and rear brakes. You use a smaller cylinder to make up for the lack of servo. Eg I have a 0.625 inch front and 0.8 rear from memory. The peddle still ends up with very little movement and has great feel. Sure you need more peddle effort at times, but it's makes for better feedback. There is a bar that runs between the peddle and to the master cylinders, one each side of the peddle. You then adjust the length and position of this bias bar to get more or less leaverage to each master cylinder to set brake bias.

Also with the power steering, you can dump the mechanical pump and use an electronic mechanical setup from many modern cars. Or do what I and many others have done and fit a Corsa or equivalent full electric column solution. Then it's just a few wires and no pipes and pumps.

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

[diesel des]

Oh Paul one other engine related thing to get on top of is the oiling system. A baffled sump helps, and obviously a dry sump system is best, but an accusump seems a great job. Since I fitted it to the urq my oil pressure is so steady. Considerably cheaper than a dry sump setup to.

The breather system is important to. A big block breather and sump breather/ return at the front is perfect. Head breathers encourage oil up into the head and out of the sump which is obviously bad. I run no head breather now on the urq or urs4.

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

[S2central.net]

Like most thinks it can be done Paul, and it is a more modern and "better" engine, but the old school 5 banger is still a winner in my view.

As for the no servo peddle box setups, I have never seen one with a servo on a proper rally car/ track car. You end up with 3 master cylinders, clutch, front and rear brakes. You use a smaller cylinder to make up for the lack of servo. Eg I have a 0.625 inch front and 0.8 rear from memory. The peddle still ends up with very little movement and has great feel. Sure you need more peddle effort at times, but it's makes for better feedback. There is a bar that runs between the peddle and to the master cylinders, one each side of the peddle. You then adjust the length and position of this bias bar to get more or less leaverage to each master cylinder to set brake bias.

Also with the power steering, you can dump the mechanical pump and use an electronic mechanical setup from many modern cars. Or do what I and many others have done and fit a Corsa or equivalent full electric column solution. Then it's just a few wires and no pipes and pumps.

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

Yeah I think I am going to stay old school with the engine - unless a bucket of extra cash falls from the sky and I get lots of time to research everything properly. I don't want to be a Guinea-Pig in that regard and wholly dependent on others to fabricate all sorts of unexpected adaptations.

As for pedal boxes - had only ever considered those for "proper" race / rally cars but you got me thinking now.

The electric steering is a bit radical to my old brain - always considered that to be an invention for eco friendly cars of generation snowflake - and a way to make level of steering assist controlled by software in higher end applications.

Never ever considered that was vaguely normal in track applications - always assumed that would be the ruination of any sense of steering feel. It's not like an S2 is famous for steering feel so that's a bit of a curve ball - that will learn me for being such an infrequent visitor some years back when yourself and others were doing this.

Anyway - that's more stuff to research and stress about (or more likely learn from those who have been there and done that).

I will have to have a proper nosey over the red beast sometime.

[diesel des]

Yep I will have to get the urq down your way for a look over. Plenty of bits and bobs to talk about. Like how crap the paint is...

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

[S2central.net]

I might actually head down your way - especially as the Red Devil will be without an engine for a while - there is a little welding job that I could use some advice and/or trusted hands with !