Project Lazarus

[diesel des]

Making good progress there Paul.

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[S2central.net]

Feels good to have got to this point, but its a long road ahead as you well know... have a lot of stuff to clear in the garage before I can tackle much more and still looking for a local storage unit to help with space.

[S2central.net]

Having got some parts into storage and some stuff sold I had just enough space, time and energy to tackle the rear end today.

No major dramas, but lost the battle to another ABS sensor - those are evil.

Some general before pics from rear left corner.

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[S2central.net]

The wee 8mm bolt holding the abs sensor cable bracket to the strut sheared off so that will need a drill to tidy up.

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I was most impressed by the state of the rear wishbones that I refurbished with elbow grease and POR15 about 4 or 4 yrs ago - they look amazing.

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The rear subframe is looking a bit sorry but hopefully it's all sound enough for a refurb. Plan is to pull out the last corner then drop the rear diff with subframe, RARB and tie rods attached.

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[S2central.net]

Also used the new Sealey brake bleed kit to flush out all the lines today - really nice piece of equipment.

[s2driveruk]

Also used the new Sealey brake bleed kit to flush out all the lines today - really nice piece of equipment.

Yeah got to say having had a little drive post MOT retest the brakes feel properly good and pedal feel is better than i can remember. Great tool

[S2central.net]

So with all four corners out, attention drew today for removing the rear diff and subframe. Easy enough removing the two vacuum tubes and plug for the position switch.

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I had already freed up the subframe bolts so with a good trolley jack underneath to take the strain I proceeded to remove those. Annoyingly the last one started to bind up then sheared the bolt off but will worry about that another day.

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All the rear propshaft bolts are off but damned if I can get it to release from the input to the rear diff. Tried a collection of plastic and metal hammers. Rain stopped play so I decided to come in and seek any advice on releasing the prop before I get any wetter or lose temper with it.

Any tips ?

[andy10v]

All the rear propshaft bolts are off but damned if I can get it to release from the input to the rear diff. Tried a collection of plastic and metal hammers. Rain stopped play so I decided to come in and seek any advice on releasing the prop before I get any wetter or lose temper with it.

Any tips ?

Bigger hammer, you need to shock it off. Make sure you hit the joint and not the metal part of the rubber boot.

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

Bigger hammer, you need to shock it off. Make sure you hit the joint and not the metal part of the rubber boot.

Yep agree with Andy.Done 2 of these in the last year and they always appear to be stuck solid when all they need is something else in the drive train to give some give and a good tap as Andy said.

[S2central.net]

Thanks chaps - It's had plenty of whacks with a 2lb hammer so far, but I haven't got properly medieval with it yet. So patience and more elbow grease required seems like.

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

I think i also cleaned up the joint and squirted some releas agent in their too.Not sure if it helped much but it came out easy enough in the end.

[mcandmar]

They sit inside a lip so hitting them directly on the side doesn't do much, you need to smack them at an angle to break them free. If you plan to replace the boots just give the metal the edge the boot a smack towards the front of the car and it should pop out. I just replaced the four driveshaft joints this weekend so the process is fresh in my mind, still have the grease under my finger nails to prove it

[Error404]

Lock the rear hubs with a breaker bar through the studs, then preload the prop with a pry bar through the UJ, then **** the CV casing

[S2central.net]

So it's off - all it took was a handful more skilful strokes of the 2lb hammer and off it popped. The trick seemed to be turning the diff at an angle (on the jack) while still attached - pretty much what Mark suggested and off it went.

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It's looking pretty crusty - not unexpected for its first time into daylight since Ingolstadt in the summer of 1993.

I have left a douse of PlusGas on all the bolts (after a thorough wire brush to remove the heavy crust) and will let work its magic overnight.

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The only bit of annoyance is that subframe bolt which is well and truly bonded into the captive nut in the shell. I have it doused in plus gas but I reckon a heat torch or worse will be required to remove it. I already tried a good quality M10 stud remover but it's locked up solid and I don't want to shear any more of the bolt away. Lil ******.

[diesel des]

So it's off - all it took was a handful more skilful strokes of the 2lb hammer and off it popped. The trick seemed to be turning the diff at an angle (on the jack) while still attached - pretty much what Mark suggested and off it went.

[ATTACH]59824[/ATTACH]

It's looking pretty crusty - not unexpected for its first time into daylight since Ingolstadt in the summer of 1993.

I have left a douse of PlusGas on all the bolts (after a thorough wire brush to remove the heavy crust) and will let work its magic overnight.

[ATTACH]59825[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]59826[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]59827[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]59828[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]59829[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]59830[/ATTACH]

The only bit of annoyance is that subframe bolt which is well and truly bonded into the captive nut in the shell. I have it doused in plus gas but I reckon a heat torch or worse will be required to remove it. I already tried a good quality M10 stud remover but it's locked up solid and I don't want to shear any more of the bolt away. Lil ******.

Sure when the cage is welded in that subframe mount can be incorporated... Good to see you today. Your making good steady progress which is the secret I reckon. That and a big credit card....

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