Project Lazarus

[S2central.net]

Likewise Des - glad you popped by to shoot the breeze and add some inspiration. Had it not been for that prop not shifting on the first attempt the subframe would have been out 30mins after you left.

[S2central.net]

With a good two days soaking of the bolts - the diff, RARB and tie rods are off the rear subframe. Whoop.

IMG_3026.JPG

There is a prize for anyone with advice on getting the sheared subframe bolt out of the chassis though - short of removing fuel tank and cutting through from the top side I am snookered for now. Plenty to be getting on with.

Assembling parts for an electrolysis bath for next bit of fun.

Only big items left to come out of the shell are seats, dashboard, fuel tank and sunroof - probably in that order.

[AndyP]

There is a prize for anyone with advice on getting the sheared subframe bolt out of the chassis though - short of removing fuel tank and cutting through from the top side I am snookered for now. Plenty to be getting on with.

This happened to me when I swapped my subframe last winter, mine sheared quite straight so I was able to centre punch it and carefully drill down the centre with a small drill. The I just kept drilling it bigger and bigger untill it came out, I then drilled out the old damaged threads and installed a helicoil insert.

If there is any of the bolt left sticking out, grind it flat and take your time centre punching the centre, use new good quality drills and take your time, you'll only get one shot at this!

Now, about that prize

Edit : Just seen the pic of yours, plenty of material there, once the subframe is off you might even be able to wiggle it out with vice grips and Plus Gas.

[S2central.net]

If that works then yeah some beers for you sir !

I was thinking heat next, but it's only going to expand the bolt more than the damn captive nut.

I will have to invest in decent drill bits for that task - destroyed a handful of so called quality bits lately.

[mcandmar]

Lots of heat, cherry red that sucker. It will expand, but once it cools again it shouldn't be stuck as tight.

[S2central.net]

I am gonna sleep on that one - must check if / how close the fuel tank is to that area. Actually need to empty whatever is left in there before removing the tank so yeah - if heat fails to crack it then I am looking at sporty new drill bits.

[S2central.net]

Oh so close but no cigar. Got it cherry red then shocked it cool with water spray. Did that twice.

Into with a big stilson as the stud remover was just slipping on previously chewed metal.

Good swing and it made that lovely dry squak noise you get with hot threads as the bolt turned. Woop I am onto a winner methinks.

It kept moving slowly squaking a good six times. On the seventh it just moved with no noise. On the 8th it sheared the remainder of the bolt off.

Drat - now I am looking at drill bits.

In hindsight I should maybe have let it cool some more. Put that down to experience and wanting to shift the ******* before dark.

[newsh]

That's a shame but chances are the bit of bolt above the nut was rusty so it moved but seized again, prob should have gone in there with the plus gas as soon as it squacked the first time, then move back and forth a bit.

[S2central.net]

Yeah I am my own worst enemy sometimes - light was fading and I rushed it. Should have just let it cool properly overnight then tackled today with a fresh head. Such is life.

Titanium coated drill bits ordered from decent brand name so hopefully I am just an hour or two of drilling with dwarf coated hair (what's left of it) and one more backache from getting the project's most difficult bolt off.

From looking at the pieces there's only about 15-20mm of bolt left in there so hopefully the new drill bits are butch enough for that.

Knowing my luck, a bit will break during the job and cause even greater anger levels.

[Nuvo]

Paul I'd advise you to order good quality cobalt drill bits and regularly coat the bit with a cutting grease. Titanium just won't cut it (literally).

[macspring]

Paul I'd advise you to order good quality cobalt drill bits and regularly coat the bit with a cutting grease. Titanium just won't cut it (literally).

Thanks Paul and Nuvo for sharing these tit-bits of experience, as we've all been in Paul's position at some stage of our car careers.

[andy10v]

Just watch the cobalt drill bits are a bit more brittle and easier to snap, then even more fun to drill out!

[S2central.net]

That's good advice - did see a cobalt option somewhere. I will try the titanium coated bits with one of the other bolts in a vice first to see if they are worth any chuff.

Will order up some cobalt ones as well.

Rain stopped play today anyway so I made some progress on a house project instead.

[S2central.net]

Great tip (literally) on those Cobalt drill bits - they arrived today so I tried them on another bolt just on the bench. Fantastic but yes easy to break if you change angle while drilling.

The titanium coated bits may as well have been made from cardboard - utterly useless for that job.

Will hopefully muster up the energy and attitude to tackle the sheared bolt next week some time.

[Nuvo]

Told you so. They really are worth their weight in .. er.. cobalt.