80q b4 2.2 20vt project

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  • M2ki
    replied
    Originally posted by Grillage

    On my setup, I have the wheel speed sensor at EC18-8
    I meant where is the signal from, abs sensor, gearbox sensor or cluster speed output?

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  • Grillage
    replied
    Originally posted by M2ki
    Where did you take the wheel speed signal?
    On my setup, I have the wheel speed sensor at EC18-8

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  • M2ki
    replied
    Originally posted by Thuppu
    Next need to get the wheel speed working. Maybe not even hardware in this ECU for it to work..?
    Where did you take the wheel speed signal?

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  • Thuppu
    replied
    Originally posted by Grillage

    I couldn't get my N75 to click in test mode either unless the car is running. It's not properly powered with just the key on.
    I had mine backward - had to invert in VEMS to make it work right
    Got this resolved. Didn't work with pin 6(EC36) when I had the engine running and switched on the boost control testmode, the whole engine started to pump the rpms up and down. Nothing came to the N75 connector. It affected the ISV. Saw also from old pics that pin 6 was earlier used for the ISV, I have it deleted and using ignition based idle, works perfect. Pin 17(EC36) is the right one for boost control. At least in this setup. And yes, engine must be running to get the test work.

    Next need to get the wheel speed working. Maybe not even hardware in this ECU for it to work..?


    Will also try out a new intake cam. Reground from 7A to 230deg and 10,4mm lift. Setup with stock 7A exhaust cam and reclocked should be quite close to Cat Cams 1012339 http://www.catcams.com/products/cams...nguage=english


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  • Thuppu
    replied
    Originally posted by Grillage

    I couldn't get my N75 to click in test mode either unless the car is running. It's not properly powered with just the key on.
    I had mine backward - had to invert in VEMS to make it work right
    Ok, have to try it out with engine running, thanks for the tip. In fact I would like to use a 4-port MAC valve so I can get the boost to hold to the redline. Now it's tapering down from 2 to 1,2bar.

    I was trying this style of 2-port WG control with mechanical boost tee, but it seems to not work very well. Boost spikes over the limit at high gears. Don't know how it would perform with an electric 3-port valve though?

    ​​

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  • Grillage
    replied
    Originally posted by Thuppu
    MOT:ed this some time ago, without issues. Have been working fine. Wanted to get VEMS boost control workin and also the wheel speed sensing, but no luck yet. Updated the firmware to same version but with wheel speed patch, but it seems to not read the wheel speed..? Also couldn't get the n75 clicking in test mode, so I'm not sure if the econoseal/motronic pin is right(6). It should be though. How can I tell how old my ECU is? It's an PnP AAN VEMS. Today when I was playing with the Vemstune and the car was parked with the engine running, I suddenly got the coolant warning and the temp was high. Luckily I was about 100m from home... But anyway the lower coolant hose had jumped of the thermostat housing and the hose clamp was gone.. Lost almost all coolant. But got an new clamp and new coolant and is seems to be working fine.

    But any ideas about the boost control and wheel speed?
    I couldn't get my N75 to click in test mode either unless the car is running. It's not properly powered with just the key on.
    I had mine backward - had to invert in VEMS to make it work right

    Leave a comment:


  • Thuppu
    replied
    MOT:ed this some time ago, without issues. Have been working fine. Wanted to get VEMS boost control workin and also the wheel speed sensing, but no luck yet. Updated the firmware to same version but with wheel speed patch, but it seems to not read the wheel speed..? Also couldn't get the n75 clicking in test mode, so I'm not sure if the econoseal/motronic pin is right(6). It should be though. How can I tell how old my ECU is? It's an PnP AAN VEMS. Today when I was playing with the Vemstune and the car was parked with the engine running, I suddenly got the coolant warning and the temp was high. Luckily I was about 100m from home... But anyway the lower coolant hose had jumped of the thermostat housing and the hose clamp was gone.. Lost almost all coolant. But got an new clamp and new coolant and is seems to be working fine.

    But any ideas about the boost control and wheel speed?

    Leave a comment:


  • _ShurikeN
    replied
    Splines diameters for outer CVs were different. Photo of Avant shafts: https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techni...74#post1275674

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  • M2ki
    replied
    Inner splines only or just thickness?

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  • _ShurikeN
    replied
    Originally posted by M2ki
    Ok. But all bare non S2 sedan/avant rear shafts are the same? Like 2.0 and 2.8 sedan/avant?
    I have held in hands rear shafts from ABK Saloon and AAH Avant: they were different.

    Leave a comment:


  • Filip_FIN
    replied
    Originally posted by _ShurikeN

    Why not. I've hold in hand a hub with similar work performed (vise versa, because most do want 5 holes instead of 4) and it was good. Orbital welding also does the job. I know a man driving with re-welded hubs surface for the sake of bolt-pattern swap.



    I'm thinking of similar update for my coupe rear drivetrain to get big CVs. The longer shaft is not an issue: one of front S2 shafts will do the job. But the shorter rear shaft has to be custom made. I have seen some swedish company was making such custom shafts.
    Theese guys makes custom shafts
    Fixit Transmission som är en del av Fixit maskin och verktyg AB, vänder sig till motorsportutövare som kräver det lilla extra.

    Leave a comment:


  • M2ki
    replied
    Originally posted by _ShurikeN
    Shafts are different, inner CV of S2 has 28 splines (108mm), inner CV of regular Avant has 33 splines (100mm).
    Ok. But all bare non S2 sedan/avant rear shafts are the same? Like 2.0 and 2.8 sedan/avant?

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  • _ShurikeN
    replied
    Originally posted by Thuppu
    I got a sick idea of buying A4/S4 big 38 spline hubs and fill weld the 5x112 pattern and rebore to 4x108(as I don't wan't to buy new wheels and fronts yet.).
    Why not. I've hold in hand a hub with similar work performed (vise versa, because most do want 5 holes instead of 4) and it was good. Orbital welding also does the job. I know a man driving with re-welded hubs surface for the sake of bolt-pattern swap.

    Originally posted by Thuppu
    Then machine off a little bit from the hub bearing surface and fit BMW 42x75x37mm wheel bearings.
    I'm thinking of similar update for my coupe rear drivetrain to get big CVs. The longer shaft is not an issue: one of front S2 shafts will do the job. But the shorter rear shaft has to be custom made. I have seen some swedish company was making such custom shafts.

    Leave a comment:


  • _ShurikeN
    replied
    Shafts are different, inner CV of S2 has 28 splines (108mm), inner CV of regular Avant has 33 splines (100mm).

    Leave a comment:


  • M2ki
    replied
    Originally posted by _ShurikeN
    Rear outer CVs from B4 Avant and S2 Avant/Saloon are the same: they have 38 outer splines and 25 inner splines.
    What about inner CVs? Are the bare shafts the same on S2 avant and 82mm regular avant?

    Leave a comment:

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