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quattro style, how many the shipping cost you to netherland from Oregon ?
next year i'll look to import a Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z 1987, i have a good friend of me who live near klanath falls, limit with the California Border
I believe the shipping per boat was $1500 but the car had to be transported to the harbour for $500 and taxes etc was about €650 still have to register and MOT the car over here which is another €150. All in all the car became more than twice the price I bought it for.
This is coming out of my donor car. Here is a shot of what I think the shifter set up should look in for transferring the 01E 5 speed into the B2 but still retain the reverse lockout.
The Base plate is from the 4000, top piece is from UrS4
Finished the exhaust for now. May have to make some small tweaks to it if it rubs or is too low.
Got the head stripped down to take to the shop.
It is getting new Ferrea 6000 Valves installed in it, valve grind, new stem seals, etc...
Had to extract every one of these stupid little things and beat the **** out of my knucks
Got my rods . The whole entire bottom end is at the machine shop now. Getting honed, tanked and then everything will be zero balanced.
Got a new oil cooler. This is going to be moved over to the other side of the engine bay, which will give me more room for the intercooler on the passenger side.
About to start on my wiring and im dreading it. I wish there was someone in the area who was good at wiring in these cars and I would pay them to graft in my harness and clean things up
Does anyone happen to have a pinout for starting at the bottom of the fusebox to identify where these 8 prong connectors go? Don't know if such a schematic even exists.
The reason I am looking for those connector pinouts or some sort of diagrams is because I'm curious if the wires that go to my factory ECU may be useful for providing power and ground to my aan harness.
I'm still at the crossroads of trying to decide whether to use the AAN or ABY Harness because neither of them looks plug and play for the B2.
First step I guess is to figure out what I have, and what I need.
So the stock engine harness has a set of wires that runs over from the passenger footwell to the drivers side. First thing I did today was look and see exactly where this goes. I thought it went to the bottom of the fuse box but apparently not.
I'm thinking this bundle of wires may provide some of my signals for the cluster but I'm not sure yet.Traced it back today and it goes to 3 plugs.
A black connector (6-pin but only uses 3 pins, has 4 wires)
A round 4-pin connector
A green 2-pin connector
Black connector.
Green connector
All 3
I was thinking there may be a connector at the bottom of the fuse box that ends up getting removed with the stock ECU harness, but it wasn't so.
So working on the wiring some more today. Should have a pretty sweet solution.
Went through my stash and found a couple of good connectors, re-pinned a T8 with the proper diameter wires.
The wiring stash
Used an old fuse box to lay everything out.
If all goes well, This plug will replace "B" , the black T8 connector . Then I have plenty of length to run over to the passenger footwell where the AAN fuses and ECU will sit.
Well if you think I am on the right track that's a good sign.
I have the wires all ready to connect to the fusebox and run to the passenger side then will just have to tie in there with the AAN harness.
Have not done any of the signals yet, tach etc.
So I think I am making progress on the wiring.
I got the connections done so far
AAN Harness "S3 Plug" Black - > B15 in fusebox
AAN Harness "S3 Plug" Brown/yellow - > BS in fusebox
AAN Harness "S3 Plug" Blues (2) - > 87A in fusebox
AAN Harness red ring terminal - > L30 in fusebox (+12V)
AAN Harness Black ("87F") -> "0" in fusebox
So I think If I get the ground connected I would be able to run the engine but with no signals to the dash.
If I am looking at it right I need to retain 3 of the original wires in the "B" plug- these would be:
-B53C (windshield washer pump)
-B15A (Reverse lights) ,
- B50C (starter solenoid).
You mean B50A...
Yes, for sure. Use original wires if possible.
You're right I meant B50A yep.
It's tough to do given the space in there but I should be able to take the wire and pin for B50A out of the B plug and transfer the wire over to my new plug to avoid any butt connectors . So in hindsight it may have been easier to just splice the wires for B S and B 15 into the existing connector. But oh well I am on the way now
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make sure the car is worth it before buying.
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