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That looks fine to me,
thanks robin
martin
thanks robin
martin
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Wow!, that was beginners luck. Unfortunately the other two pics are just over the limit. Not sure how the other one sneaked under. Not sure how to resize them.
Martin, I'll email them to you instead.Comment
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Out of interest, how much would a used AAN inlet, with fuel rail and water manifold cost?Comment
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Apologies in advance if this doesn't work, but in the interests of science!Comment
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Last One. Don't know what I'm doing but it seems to be working!Comment
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Robin - have you got some pics of the AAN fuel rail and how it connects to fuel lines? I was going to modify my manifold to work with an ABY fuel rail (like Marks) but I can get my hands on the AAN one if it is easier to use - it uses the same FPR so does it have the same fuel connections - and where do they sit when mounted? - thanks.S2,RS2,S4 WB,RS4,S4 B8,RS6 C5,RS6 C6,R8Comment
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Originally posted by Doug_RS2
Doug,
Sort of. The supply comes in the bottom and is therefore detachable. The return hose however is an integral part of the fuel rail and as such is not detachable. On the AbY rail, both are detachable.
Pics to follow shortly.Comment
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Doug,
View from the top.Comment
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Doug,
View from the side. If you are in the market for a fuel rail. I think I stumbled across one in the boot of the car. Dont forget that the S4/S6 used hard lines across the bulkhead to feed the rail.Comment
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Errr...
In all this excitment, I think I got me return and supply lines mixed up!Comment
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Originally posted by twoqu
I think I am getting the rail from Mihnea - I'll see if his has those flexis - Are they going to mate up to the ABY ones though
Thanks for the pics Robin
S2,RS2,S4 WB,RS4,S4 B8,RS6 C5,RS6 C6,R8Comment
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Im thinking along the lines of doing something like this (i've butchered one of dougs pics)
Pretty much chop off the front and extend it a tad roughly to follow the green shape.
I can live with having to fit the AAN PS bracket etc, i just need to fit the intake as far forward as i can due to having less room to move the rad back than doug and mark.
Welding shouldnt be a problem...because hopefully i wont be doing it..lol.
Does this look a possibility?
martinComment
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I am confused Martin - Are you going to chop all the runners off to move the body of it forward?
I wouldn't take that pic as being accurate in positioning - Do you want some more pics? I can take some tomorrow - I was thinking of taking the inlet manifold off this weekend to see how much things have to move around.
If it is tight where L shaped pipe comes out(at the dizzy) - just move the L shaped pipe.
What about moving the rad forward at the bottom and back at the top to fit round the throttle body? I have a funny feeling you could mount the fan assembly upside down - it would give you more room up top but it is not the ideal postion to cool the rad (hotter at the top) then thefan would sit a lot lower - worth a try?
How close is your ABS stuffS2,RS2,S4 WB,RS4,S4 B8,RS6 C5,RS6 C6,R8Comment
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No, you see at the front, the angled part with the red lines on, cut that off and rebuild it so the top of the manifold is flat right across its length.Originally posted by Doug_RS2
so its one long rectangular box basically
of course i'm just posting my thoughts at the moment, i'll have to wait to get my hands on it.
i think there is enough clearence at the back near the dizzy.
you can just get your hand between the ABS and the rad cowling.
martinComment
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I never did that - the throttle body is a good fit to the current shape if you move it forward - if anything it feeds air to cylinder 1 very well with the throttle body at the front.Originally posted by martinjs
Here's a bad pic of it before it is welded up.S2,RS2,S4 WB,RS4,S4 B8,RS6 C5,RS6 C6,R8Comment
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