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Having tried a few springs in the WG on mine, the car didn't particularly like early boost and hiccuped a bit. I would suggest that as long as you keep the maximum close to whatever map you have and turn it down for economy then it'll be better. Perhaps a strong WG spring and remap would be an alternative, depends what you want from it.
Cheers'en, AndyC
1994 ABY Coupe - Projekt Alpinweiss
no need for a spring. thats a waste IMO. a remap would cost more too. for no real gain if you are after just better control of boost over the factory crap. issue is not usually the map its the n75 hardware
1. disconnect factory solenoid.
2. fir eboost solenoid. mines on inner wing.
3. use the standard dual port setup so you are connected top and bottom.
best to do a run with the controller set on the 00's first. this gives you the can boost. then tweak in some duty till you see desired (read boost fueling set for) boost. once this is done add some gate pressure to spool faster. using the controller in its basic form is still great.
i set the standard aby to 1.1 bar. it read fine on AFR. it would spool in a fraction of the N75 and hold rock steady. a massive, massive improvement.
no need for a spring. thats a waste IMO. a remap would cost more too. for no real gain if you are after just better control of boost over the factory crap. issue is not usually the map its the n75 hardware
t.
No matter what boost control you have a sensible stiffer spring will improve boost response.
For you Bo have you tried the solenoids you bought connected to both the upper and lower chamber?
if you get a well set controller thats not the case. the spring just means less solenoid duty and in the case of a poor setup that would equate to better control. top and bottom is pressure balance.
what the spring does in the case of some controllers is allow you to have higher boost. can boost is 0 as far as the controller is concerned. some controllers work on a max above can pressure principle.
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