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Zimmerman drilled disks crack IME.
But then, that goes for most drilled discs, unless they're like OEM Porsche disks that are cast with holes in them.
The normal school of thought is drilled and grooved are only worth it for track cars. On road cars, they wear the pads more rapidly, without giving any braking improvement back as a fair trade and are prone to cracking due to the occasional high heat cycle - on the track they get hot and stay there. In fact, for roads, they are said to be worse as the reduction in braking surface on the disc is not returned to you by a noticeably increased fade point.
In the last 15 years of Audi ownership, I have tried various discs and pads in all manner of combinations and have come to the conclusion that for any given disc size (assuming it is vented not solid), it is the pad that matters, not the disc.
Therefore, if you cannot spend £460 on a Monoblock setup, then I would go for standard discs and spend the cash on the pads. That said, you will never be able to stay with a Monoblock setup on the track and would have to give up after 3 laps anyway, whereas a Monoblock setup will just keep going....the difference is poles apart.
Also, without the brake upgrade, any power mods would IMHO be crazy
Cheers n
Si
P.S. Just noticed you have an AAN , which I am not sure about regarding the standard Monoblock upgrade, but the theory above still holds out.
I use EBC discs on my UR and on the back of the S2, EBC gd code discs are not drilled but dimpled so they dont crack, they are quite a bit noisier than plain discs but definitely have more bite.
Solid advice from Simon there I think... Drilled discs are indeed prone to cracking and the benefit is small for road use. I have had good experiences with grooved/slotted discs in the past, but in fairness I also had uprated pads on at the same time so its hard to quantify the gain of each element.
I'd agree with Simon - get some OEM discs (they are dirt cheap even at Audi UK list price) and upgrade to something like EBC, MIntex or Ferodo pads.
This setup, with good quality brake fluid that exceeds the DOT4 spec, is as good as it gets for the stock Girling G60 configuration... You will never outbrake anything with a healthy set of 4-pot calipers up front of course - but its a cheap way to keep you going while you save the pennies for a monoblock conversion.
Yeah would agree, had driled zimmermans and they were carp! The discs were completely fkcued and the pads i fitted at the same time were only half worn!! A8 Brembos i have now seem cool and they have a sort of zinc primer on them so they don't rot like the zimmermans did, they rusted like they were made of old ladas
Ragusa Coupe gone!
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VW T4 Multivan. TSW Holstens hiding in the garage for the winter.
VW Mk1 Caddy pickup, modded or "ruined"
vw T5 Kombi. In the process of being "ruined"
Hi I also need to change my discs and pads as under braking the car feels as if it has no 'grab' and the car has no 'jabbiness' to braking. If i got a monoblock setup where would i aquire it from and would I need to put on bigger alloys?
Hi I also need to change my discs and pads as under braking the car feels as if it has no 'grab' and the car has no 'jabbiness' to braking. If i got a monoblock setup where would i aquire it from and would I need to put on bigger alloys?
Bry or Corey on here may be able to help you in your quest for anchors that work. AFAIK 16" wheels will accomadate monoblocks with 314mm discs, only need bigger boots for the 323mm a8 or bigger.
Ragusa Coupe gone!
sigpic
VW T4 Multivan. TSW Holstens hiding in the garage for the winter.
VW Mk1 Caddy pickup, modded or "ruined"
vw T5 Kombi. In the process of being "ruined"
First I would check that your bomb and hydraulics are working correctly.
Then, if you intend to use your brakes to slow your S2 from the sort of speeds it is capable of, I would highly recommend the 996/A8 upgrade.
Here is a good write up, if you're thinking of upgrading.
Any reason why the brakes have gone to ****? they were changed 2k ago
Any or all or any combination of the following: -
- Glazed or badly bedded-in discs ( and pads to a degree)
- Boiled brake fluid
- Old brake fluid which has absorbed water
- badly bled brakes with trapped air
- Old perished rubber brake lines
- Siezed caliper piston
When you fit new discs, always change the fluid - I recommend ATE Racing fluid - which is great stuff and comes in orange or blue. Both are the same, but using the other color allows you to see when you are flushing new fluid at each corner.
More importantly, ALWAYS bed new discs in properly. The best way is to use old pads of the identical type that you plan to fit new and then run through the standard heat cycles. Once bedded in, only then do you change to the pads.
Finally, replace the rubber lines with RS2 hard lines and modern PTFE/Stainless flexi lines.
Assuming your calipers are in good condition, the above will get the best out of your setup. After that you need A8 314/323mm discs, Brembo monoblocks and SEAT/RS2 carriers...that will give you the brakes that Audi SHOULD have fitted from the factory.
Cheers n
Si
95 ABY S2 Coupe - Ragusa Green Subtle mods here and there
2011 A5 3.0 TDi - Lava Grey With every option available (except a towball)
A while ago i was getting a constant vibration throught the pedal but if i stopped the car it would stop, Almost like the ABS was going all the time. The car hasn't done this since i fitted new discs and pads but i do have to apply more pressure?
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