RS2 Brakes making noise

**re2500** · 2 October 2013, 11:16

I think what you are experiencing is pad rattle, it is common with brembo calipers and it is caused by the pad rattling between the brake caliper and disc and it makes a humming noise. The part of the caliper that stops this humming noise is the anti-rattle shim and is item 19 on the diagram above. It is worth checking that these are installed.

**minim** · 2 October 2013, 11:40

Originally posted by re2500

I think what you are experiencing is pad rattle, it is common with brembo calipers and it is caused by the pad rattling between the brake caliper and disc and it makes a humming noise. The part of the caliper that stops this humming noise is the anti-rattle shim and is item 19 on the diagram above. It is worth checking that these are installed.

I would have thought that made a sound with a lower frequency but I can check this when I'm able to get the caliper off. The sound is more like the same as this guy has but a tad higher frequency and not so loud. I will def. check that these are installed when i get it off. Thanks for the tip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQnDqriVjD0

**twoqu** · 2 October 2013, 12:00

Unfortunately this is another all or nothing issue I fear!
You might be better off removing the caliper as its easy to see what you are doing. You usually only get one shot at a corroded union and you have had it! It might need something as drastic as spark erosion. Another issue is the corrosion between the caliper body and the pad guide plate. If you look at the top r/h of your pic with the red circle it appears that the plate has been pushed off the caliper. They should fit flush. This usually causes issues with the pads being too tight and may be the cause of your problem. Again no half measure as the screws that hold the plates are going to be difficult to remove to get the plates off and then in an ideal world you need to attend to the corrosion and replace the plates. Basically you are comitting yourself to a caliper overhaul which then leads to the consideration of replacement with perhaps a more modern monobloc caliper!

**minim** · 2 October 2013, 12:09

Originally posted by twoqu

Unfortunately this is another all or nothing issue I fear!
You might be better off removing the caliper as its easy to see what you are doing. You usually only get one shot at a corroded union and you have had it! It might need something as drastic as spark erosion. Another issue is the corrosion between the caliper body and the pad guide plate. If you look at the top r/h of your pic with the red circle it appears that the plate has been pushed off the caliper. They should fit flush. This usually causes issues with the pads being too tight and may be the cause of your problem. Again no half measure as the screws that hold the plates are going to be difficult to remove to get the plates off and then in an ideal world you need to attend to the corrosion and replace the plates. Basically you are comitting yourself to a caliper overhaul which then leads to the consideration of replacement with perhaps a more modern monobloc caliper!

The plate you are referring to are number 11 and 12 in the drawing? It looks like they are mounted in the same height both up and down from the picture.

**twoqu** · 2 October 2013, 12:13

Originally posted by minim

The plate you are referring to are number 11 and 12 in the drawing? It looks like they are mounted in the same height both up and down from the picture.

Yep!
Its a well known issue with those style calipers. Search using Porsche caliper corrosion on the internet should turn up some info on the internet. Naturally as the RS2 used the same calipers its the same issue!

**twoqu** · 2 October 2013, 12:15

Jackals racetrack

http://www.jackals-forge.com/lotus/968cs/968_platelift.htm

**minim** · 2 October 2013, 12:27

Awesome twuqu! Saving me again

Then I will take it out and see if this is causing it. Will do a quick fix first using the same plates and removing corrosion just to see if it fixes it before I spend any money on this. If I need a complete overhaul I might consider a upgrade instead since I can imagine that it get's almost as pricey as a new part ^^

Anyone got the dimensions/type of the union/brake hose connection? Think I'll have to just take it off with force and replace it with a new part.

**twoqu** · 2 October 2013, 13:04

Originally posted by minim

Awesome twuqu! Saving me again

Then I will take it out and see if this is causing it. Will do a quick fix first using the same plates and removing corrosion just to see if it fixes it before I spend any money on this. If I need a complete overhaul I might consider a upgrade instead since I can imagine that it get's almost as pricey as a new part ^^

Anyone got the dimensions/type of the union/brake hose connection? Think I'll have to just take it off with force and replace it with a new part.

Think they are just normal M10x1.0mm fittings.

**minim** · 2 October 2013, 15:03

Originally posted by twoqu

Think they are just normal M10x1.0mm fittings.

Ok. I got it out so I'll measure it to be sure.

I've now taken the caliper out of the car and removed the plates and cleaned it a little bit just to see how bad it was. It's pretty corroded and broken up behind the plates on the inner side and it shows clearly on the pad that it has been on more than the outer pad. I did take a lot of pictures and I can upload them if people want to see some of it.

I guess that there is no option besides changing the caliper when it's corroded that much behind there. I could ofc try to fix it but I'm afraid I would be wasting money on the attempt and get a bad one in close future.

**jade** · 2 October 2013, 15:30

I have successful repair mine before, but maybe they were not as bad as yours. The pad plates and screws are about 20gbp per caliper

**minim** · 2 October 2013, 16:05

Originally posted by jade

I have successful repair mine before, but maybe they were not as bad as yours. The pad plates and screws are about 20gbp per caliper

Easier to explain with photos I think. The only problem is the corrosion that has eaten a lot of the aluminium. I could probably weld on some alu on the side there and grind it down so it was aligned and flat but I'm not sure how easy it is to get a good result doing that.

Showing some of what twoqu spoke about earlier from a better angle. It's now more visible that the plates in the end have a good amount of corrosion between the plate and the caliper.

The break pad to the right is the pad that was on the inner side with most corrosion. This is also the one that is most worn so I guess it's safe to say that this is some of the problem.

Another photo of the corrosion before taking things apart.

And a two photos showing dust cap's that have gone bad and need replacement before I put this togheter again.

The bolt that fixes the plate to the caliper had a T27 head. This needs good cleaning down in the torx head before you attempt to remove them as they also seem to be a target of corrosion..

One of my bolts was not possible to get out so welded on a nut in the end and it came out easy. My precious Kemppi has saved me more than once!

Then lots of pics.. Plates off showing the amount of corrosion that was there. I also cleaned one of the ends using a small dremel with a steel brush mounted. It's not me that has taken away all that metal it's corroded.. With all that alu that's gone I'm not sure if it's any point trying to repair it. I could ofcourse try to weld some on it and grind it down but do you guys think that would work?

Also noticed that the pad that "re2500" is refering to isn't installed at all.

**minim** · 2 October 2013, 16:22

And to quickly add costs for one caliper I get this when shopping from online-teile.com

50,30 EURO 8A0698430 Spring plate
28,44 EURO 8A0698430A spring plate
115,43 EURO 8A0698471A gasket set 44m
72,00 EURO 8A0698471 gasket set 36mm
266,17 EURO total

If I order brand new calipers from Ebay from the link below I can get 2x new ones for 920 euro (460 each). So I would save 190 euro on replacing the parts but then again... I won't get anywhere close to new condition on it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-Porsche...item3cd61dd2c2

**twoqu** · 2 October 2013, 17:51

I cannot remember which Porsche model those calipers are from or whether its worth trying to source a used pair as a stop gap replacement. The obvious upgrade would be the Big reds which was a factory option (322mm) or I think others have used the 996 Turbo/GT3 monobloc calipers with an easier to source 330mm disc. The big red is the same design so same issue potentially. The discs are 2 piece and not the 993tt ones as the hats are unique to the RS2. Both go under the stock wheels I believe
Depend whether you are hung up on originality or want something you can use reliably and source components easily. Its all on here somewhere!

**minim** · 2 October 2013, 18:00

Originally posted by twoqu

I cannot remember which Porsche model those calipers are from or whether its worth trying to source a used pair as a stop gap replacement. The obvious upgrade would be the Big reds which was a factory option (322mm) or I think others have used the 996 Turbo/GT3 monobloc calipers with an easier to source 330mm disc. The big red is the same design so same issue potentially. The discs are 2 piece and not the 993tt ones as the hats are unique to the RS2. Both go under the stock wheels I believe
Depend whether you are hung up on originality or want something you can use reliably and source components easily. Its all on here somewhere!

I think that for the brakes I can live with something that is better than the original ones. I'll just keep these in case next owner want to repair them and keep it stock

If big red's has the same desgin I don't want to upgrade that way.. 996 Turbo/GT3 and 330mm disc sounds appealing if they fit under 17" stock rims. Time to read up a bit

RS2 Brakes making noise

RS2 Brakes making noise

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