Cruise Control

[s2carlo]

Hi all,

I am having some trouble with my cruis control (coupe 3B).
It "sets" & "cancels" fine only "resume" doesn't work 80% of the time.
I do hear some clicking behind the dash but mostly doesn't pick up. It's as if "resume" is immediately followed by "cancel".

I wanted to check if there are any corroded connections on the electronics.
Can anyone tell me where the electronics are behind the dash and how to get to it (before I start taking te car apart in the wrong spot)?
Maybe somebody got some pictures?

Thanks
Carlo

[smogthemog]

Anyone tell me where the CC module is please on my car ?

Thanks

[mcandmar]

Its mounted on the back side of the wood/carbon trim piece on the dash. Open the glove box and stick your hand in there, cant miss it.

Mark.

[smogthemog]

Thank you Mark

[Jonas_R]

mcandmar:

Are 100% all s2 are fitting with the blue plug? I mean i have looked everywhere in my 1992 3b LHD car, and I can find it
I mean I guess i just have to splice into the wiring loom, but it would be easier to use the original plug, if I could just find it.
Any s2 owners that can take a picture of the plug in a LHD car?

/Jonas R.

[A1QSHIP]

Cruse Control

Hi all,

I am having some trouble with my cruis control (coupe 3B).
It "sets" & "cancels" fine only "resume" doesn't work 80% of the time.
I do hear some clicking behind the dash but mostly doesn't pick up. It's as if "resume" is immediately followed by "cancel".

I wanted to check if there are any corroded connections on the electronics.
Can anyone tell me where the electronics are behind the dash and how to get to it (before I start taking te car apart in the wrong spot)?
Maybe somebody got some pictures?

Thanks
Carlo

From your description the problem is most likely at the CC switch. I have found two switches where the wires that run from the stalk to the harness connector were broken. The break is where the CC switch wires flex with normal operation. These are small wires but can be soldered back together if you are good and careful with a soldering iron.
If it was not working at all, first check the fuse for the CC system, linkages and vacuume actuator element under the bonnet/hood, vacuume hoses for breaks and tears then check the brake and clutch pedal switches under the dash. The CC vacuume pump under the hood have been known to go bad. Lastly I would try another CC control unit. Overall, the VW/Audi CC systems work well.
Chris

[s2carlo]

From your description the problem is most likely at the CC switch. I have found two switches where the wires that run from the stalk to the harness connector were broken. The break is where the CC switch wires flex with normal operation. These are small wires but can be soldered back together if you are good and careful with a soldering iron.
If it was not working at all, first check the fuse for the CC system, linkages and vacuume actuator element under the bonnet/hood, vacuume hoses for breaks and tears then check the brake and clutch pedal switches under the dash. The CC vacuume pump under the hood have been known to go bad. Lastly I would try another CC control unit. Overall, the VW/Audi CC systems work well.
Chris

Hi Chris,

this is very helpfull info.
I now think that a cable crack might be the problem as everything else works fine, just resume doesn't work and used to work OK.
This "not working" became more frequent over time and is now almost 100%.

Can I reach these wires without building out the stalk?
If not how do I build it out (I still haven't figgered out how to get the steering wheel of)
Can't get the centre (where the horn is) out of the steering wheel....

Thank
Carlo

[A1QSHIP]

Hi Chris,

this is very helpfull info.
I now think that a cable crack might be the problem as everything else works fine, just resume doesn't work and used to work OK.
This "not working" became more frequent over time and is now almost 100%.

Can I reach these wires without building out the stalk?
If not how do I build it out (I still haven't figgered out how to get the steering wheel of)
Can't get the centre (where the horn is) out of the steering wheel....

Thank
Carlo

It is easier to solder the wires with the switch removed. That way you can do a proper job and heat shrink the solder joint. At the least, remove the upper steering column trim to see if the wires are broken. I don' know from your car specs if your car is equipped with an airbag steering wheel.
If so, you will need to remove the airbag first. Two #30 torx fasteners from the backside hold the airbag on if standard airbag wheel is fitted.

[Samppa]

The CC vacuume pump under the hood have been known to go bad. Lastly I would try another CC control unit. Overall, the VW/Audi CC systems work well.
Chris

Any simple way to manually test the pump ? Any loom diagram available?

[smogthemog]

Spent all day Saturday working on mine and came to the conclusion it is the module that is at fault. All voltages and resistances that should be there on the pins, module connected and disconnected, are correct.
I even removed the board from the metal case and individually checked as many of the components as I could but to no avail

Any cheap solutions to a replacement out there ??

[A1QSHIP]

Using a lighted magnafying glass, inspect the circut board of the control unit for any cold solder joints. These will ususally be found near where the pin connectors meet the circut board and/or where there is a mini relay soldered in. If any are found, use a thin ended soldering iron to heat up the joint enough to re-solder the connection. If you know anyone that has experience with repairing electronics have them take a look at it.

[smogthemog]

Done that

I had a bit of a blanket solder around on all the pins that weren't coated in red varnish and inspected the rest with a magnifying eye piece.
Thanks for the info though

[veneto rs2]

Hi!

I used this to fit my Tempomat on the RS2 i think it's just very well done

http://www.meckisfaq.de/bilder//gra.pdf


Stefano

[Samppa]

The problem in my case was that the switch had a poor connection. It just wouldn't activate the CC. After a month of active use it is getting better..

[S2central.net]

Been looking at CC info this weekend... I received a complete CC system off a US model 80/90 or CQ and started on a small voyage of discovery as I checked it all out for sanity.

Firstly - looks like 1990/91 US models have a different CC system from later EU models - the wiring is almost the same but there connector differences. Needed the Bentley schematics to checkout the loom I have here that goes with a 10-pin (well 8-pin plus 2-pin) CC module. The 1992 EU wiring folder clearly refers to a 12-pin CC module.

Before I spend ages on the family album (and its dodgy/incomplete view of the world) I wondered if anyone with a UK or EU car fitted with genuine CC as factory option could help shed light on some things.

From the date on my loom its clear my system is from a 1990/1991 car... There was an even earlier version with a different stalk control.

Vacuum Pump = 811 907 325 (Hella 003572), now superseded by 4B0 907 325 and common to lots of Audi CC applications

Control Unit = 443 907 305 A (Hella 004 397 01) which appears to be applicable up to end of MY91 on 'M' VINs. MY92-94 have a different part called up '4A0 907 305' whilst MY95 has '4B0' prefix.

Actuator = 811 907 327 B (Hella 004 538) - widely deployed across many Audi CC systems

Loom = 893 971 425 C (has the tag '36' marked on the loom label and also the CC module plug) - appears to be only used on CQ for MY1990 and 1991... I simply cannot find reference to CC looms from later 80Q/ACOQ or RS2.

I can post up photos when I can be bovvered.....

Looking at more info on family album, I need to change some brackets for ABY or RS2 installation - Namely -

034 721 396 B (~6 quid) for actuator
8A0 907 347 B (~3 quid) for vac pump
893 907 415 F (~16 quid) connecting rod for throttle

NOTE - 3B brackets aren't identical in LHD and RHD setup to the above