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10v hall sender in 20v distributor

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  • 10v hall sender in 20v distributor

    Hello!

    I'm having problems with getting sparks on my Audi S2 3B 1991.

    For a while i got it started in the garage the first try, with the battery fully charged, but now for a while it has been totally dead, even with a fully charged battery. I'm suspecting the G40 in the distributor.

    This was earlier in the spring when my garage was alot colder, and as you know now its summer and hotter.

    I've ordered obd and cables to read out codes, but it has not arrived yet. Anyway, if the hall sensor is broken, i might want to change it.

    I found this on autodoc:
    https://m.autodoc.se/hitachi/3229382

    Will this work or is it for 10v? I have seen that on 10v its 12 volts to the G40 and on my S2 3B it should be 5 Volts.

    Thank you!

  • #2
    If it is the Hall sensor that has failed in the tuna can, why not just replace the G40 Hall sensor? It would be a lot cheaper than the price of the unit you've linked to, which I don't know if it would work.

    See: https://12v.org/urs/ReplacementOfThe...istributor.pdf

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    • #3
      Thanks for answering!

      Yeah, that would be a solution, the only thing is that is "more work". The easiest solution would be to mount the complete kit from Autodoc than just replace the hall sensor. So thats why, but if i dont have any alternatives that would work too of course..

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      • #4
        First thing , are you getting a spark ?

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        • #5
          Is the timing correct?
          Check the mark on the distributor with the zero mark on the flywheel (not the front pulley!). On the 3B it needs to be perfect. If it’s out of alignment then the cambelt pulley keyway may be broken.
          Last edited by newsh; 3 July 2022, 05:49.

          S2 Coupe 3B Project


          Ur quattro restoration

          S2 Avant

          Boost is the new rock and roll!
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          • #6
            Originally posted by simons2 View Post
            First thing , are you getting a spark ?
            Hello!

            No, spark at all. Totally dead, but it has been working earlier this spring when it was colder. But has been unstable.

            The car is under restoring so it has been inside the garage.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by newsh View Post
              Is the timing correct?
              Check the mark on the distributor with the zero mark on the flywheel (not the front pulley!). On the 3B it needs to be perfect. If it’s out of alignment then the cambelt pulley keyway may be broken.
              I looked at the timing again yesterday and it was perfect. And before the car died and never gave me a spark again it was running really good.

              So last time i had it running was a few weeks back, it was running really nice, i turned it off and pushed it out of the garage, tried to start it once again but it has been dead since then..no spark at all.

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              • #8
                Has the car got an old alarm or immobiliser fitted? That could all of sudden spazzed out and cut power to the coil depending on how it's wired up.

                I have a good 3B distributor that's missing it's gear that I don't want a lot for, though how much it would cost to send to Sweden I don't know, I've also had hassle recently sending items to the EU.
                1989 B3 2.0 3A 80 quattro. Long term project.
                1992 C4 100 2.8 Avant quattro, daily driver.
                1995 RS2, MTM K26/7, 380 BHP conversion.
                1997 C4 2.8 30V quattro, currently breaking for spares.
                1991 MK2 Golf G60. For sale.
                1990 Corrado G60. Looking sad.

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                • #9
                  Has there been any welding done on it recently as it’s being restored ? Have you checked the ecu fuses ?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by K Simmonds View Post
                    Has the car got an old alarm or immobiliser fitted? That could all of sudden spazzed out and cut power to the coil depending on how it's wired up.

                    I have a good 3B distributor that's missing it's gear that I don't want a lot for, though how much it would cost to send to Sweden I don't know, I've also had hassle recently sending items to the EU.
                    No, it has not an immo. But the strange thing is that i had it running just before and then it died, so i really think its the G40 in the distributor. I might be interested in your distributor, but for now i think i´ve found two in sweden, already, but thanks anyway!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by simons2 View Post
                      Has there been any welding done on it recently as it’s being restored ? Have you checked the ecu fuses ?
                      The welding i have done has been done without the battery installed and no box in the car. I have checked fuses and also changed them just in case it would be a breakage inside them not visible for the eyes.

                      For now i really think its the G40 in the distributor or the G4 on the flywheel, or the welded knot on the flywheel for the G4...

                      I have also ordered obd- reader and cables so i can read out codes.

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                      • #12
                        [QUOTE=Randersson;n2124051 For now i really think its the G40 in the distributor or the G4 on the flywheel, or the welded knot on the flywheel for the G4.[/QUOTE]

                        Have you checked your welded 'knot' on the flywheel is still there?
                        1989 B3 2.0 3A 80 quattro. Long term project.
                        1992 C4 100 2.8 Avant quattro, daily driver.
                        1995 RS2, MTM K26/7, 380 BHP conversion.
                        1997 C4 2.8 30V quattro, currently breaking for spares.
                        1991 MK2 Golf G60. For sale.
                        1990 Corrado G60. Looking sad.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by K Simmonds View Post

                          Have you checked your welded 'knot' on the flywheel is still there?
                          No, this is one of things i might check this weekend, but first i will read out codes from Motronic before i do something else.

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                          • #14
                            Hello again!

                            Found it! The timing pin for G4 on the flywheel was broken off, it has probably been in bad shape all from the beginning when i mounted the flywheel on the crankshaft because the car has been hard to start from the beginning.

                            But now, the car runs sweet and starts really easy. " Easy fixed" with a lathe and my TIG- welder.

                            Thank you for all of the help!
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