Battery Under the Seat

[newsh]

Nice one

There are some pictures in error404's project thread, p15, 16 and 17 have some good pictures.

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...=23884&page=15

[Error404]

Heres a couple of pics from mine - best way to separate the box john is drill out the spot welds and then prize the two layers apart

[newsh]

Alex, that is seriously tidy

[andy10v]

Alex, having already retrofitted a battery box would you see any potential pitfalls with just welding a regular box in there and sorting out the fuel filter/lines?

[newsh]

Yup lol they was inside

and yeah just check underneath the car for anything there.

~I removed both the cables from a aby coupe today, the main feed to the starter area is a proper pita to get out and I bet a serious nightmare to put in properly.

Duh How long since I got all those parts off you??

I'm thinking of keeping my 3B cables in the engine bay and bringing the big one up from the back and splicing it in Or does the one for the fuse box have to go separately all the way back to the battery? I remember in the ur it tees off under the carpet..

Where exactly is the grommet in the firewall? Above the rack and behind the pedal box I bet

[Error404]

that gromet it above the accelerator pedal john, again i'll take some pics today for you
The wiring is easy - you can totally ignore all your 3B wiring. There are two new wires, a fat one for the starter and a slightly less fat one for the fuse box.
The starter cable runs direct from the battery to the starter via the grommet in the firewall which under the rack and around the top of the accellerator pedal from inside.
The fuse box cable again runs direct from the battery to the fuse box - i cut the spade connector off my stock cq loom and crimped/soldered it onto the new cable so it was a straight fit. I've got pic of the right connector at the bottom of the fuse box too

Andy - it would be no problem to just weld in a homemade box, but it would be a lot more work to do a neat job as the floor pan under the seat is curved etc - since you can pick up a battery box for about £50 so I'd definately say thats the easiest option

[newsh]

Alex , which side did you drill the spot welds from? There's a lot of them and I'm not going to have much of the lip of the box left.. The underside is hard to get to though and the underseal is like cement :-0

[Error404]

wire brush on a drill or grinder deals with the underseal no sweat mate

There weren't that many spot welds on mine - why not try trimming back the layer of old floor pan back to the shape of the lip instead of drilling out the welds and separating the two sheets?

I have to admit I totally forgot to take any more pics on Monday
Let me know anything you need in particular

[Error404]

You can see the grommet in this picture above the drivers side chassis rail (behind where the rack lives )


This is the 3B / CQ power feed to the fuse box: I cut this spade connector off and used a big crimp connector to join onto my new power feed from the rear


HTH

[newsh]

Cheers for pics. Yes, good plan to trim round and clean / grind where neccessary, I think the guy who welded the box into the floor on this one must have been a bit over jealous, there's a spot weld about every inch

[Error404]

what I did on mine John to cut the hole in the floor was bend down the two tabs on the box for the fuel filter cover, and then made a cardboard template that fit snugly around the box under the lip. The stencilled that out on the floor pan and got the saw out

[newsh]

Box cleaned up and fitted to hole in floor Fuel lines actually went right through the middle of where the box is so now not long enough and in the wrong place .. In fact one of the lines had rusted through at the clip to the floor and was weeping.

I guess I have to buy the ABY plastic line from tank to the fuel filter and cut back the return line and extend it with some flexible

Not being a confident welder these days and to avoid burning all the mastic and underseal off, I'm going to glue the box in with Betafill which is ridiculously strong and put in a couple of M6 or 8 bolts to give a good ground.

[Error404]

I've got a length of the plastic fuel line you can have John, you basically heat it up and then its a push fit onto the barbed banjo and the odd-ball fitting at the tank end

Here's a pic of the fuel line set-up i made, not sure if its the same as ABY but works for me (I deleted the carbon canister circuit )

[newsh]

Looks like you used the Procon Ten grommet, I havent deleted mine..

You can see the grommet in this picture above the drivers side chassis rail (behind where the rack lives )

[Error404]

My car is pre-procon so I never had that to get in my way, but if my memory serves me right John theres two grommets down there