Master central locking switch, possible?

[djh]

already done by another forum member

[Henkjan]

If we start guessing I start loosing my patience and YES you connect the relays and switch to the drivers door.
I installed alarm systems on cars like that and I know what I'm saying ....

that's why I ask I have the strange habbit of wanting to understand things

[LHD_Kid]

already done by another forum member

Perfect, did he give any info on how he did it?

[macspring]

already done by another forum member

Nice !

A good feature on the urS6 that is missing from the S2.

[djh]

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63540&highlight=pelican

[LHD_Kid]

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthr...hlight=pelican

I've posted on the (excellent) thread as there was no information - other than the picture.

[rynaqui]

already done by another forum member

Pretty sweet install that

Is that factory?

[LHD_Kid]

Pretty sweet install that

Is that factory?

I think it's a door trigger with electric window switch, where the window switch has been replaced with a door lock switch from (probably) an A3

[Rusty]

No, it's not in the early pictures. Looks like a rear window switch that's been fitted in the front with a different button or graphic.

[Zoig]

The Switch is from B5 or C4, they had the central locking switches installed. Door handle itself looks like rear EL window equipped saloon/avant handle, with the switch changed.

[LHD_Kid]

B4 trigger
B5 switch, as below:

[ManiacuV6]

I put a picture and I circled the driver's switch that control locking and unlocking.
The basic idea is that on pin number 2 you will have 12V or ground to lock/unlock.YOu have like a feedback : when you change the state the switch will remain in that state.
So I see that 2 small relays won't hurt . Right ?

The picture was taken from s2central.net.

[LHD_Kid]

Mine has no factory alarm, so this is not the same.



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[mdz]

Didn't saw this thread earlier

If car has factory central locking, there will be vacuum actuator with three wires in front doors.



It has 3 wires - red/black (+12v), brown (ground) and green/blue or yellow/blue (goes to CL pump). If you push in or pull out rod that's on top of doorcard, switch inside actuator connects +12v or ground to wire that goes to pump thus opening or closing central locks.
I took these three wires and connected them to button - +12v to pin 1, ground to pin 2 and cl pump wire to pin 4



No illumination at the moment because in this case wiring to switch is bit different than wiring to windows switch or oem lock switch. In cars that has this button from factory there's separate wires going from button to CL pump so illumination works. I'll take a look inside button if LED pinout can be altered making illumination to work.
This can also be done using two switch-over relays so we don't loose option to lock and unlock car by pushing or pulling rod, but who uses this feature anyway especially if there's a button for that.
And yes, trigger as well as button (with changed faceplate) is from rear door. You must use button from rear door that has solder type connection instead of plug or take button from C4A6 which is smaller - there's not much space behind button.

However, on my ABY car doing locking the driver's door also arms the factory alarm and I don't know how you'd seperate doing the two.

John

If you connect button to door lock wires (ground and two wires that goes to CL pump) it will trigger factory alarm when you push that button. If you connect button to actuator like I did, it will not trigger factory alarm.

[Henkjan]

.... 3 wires - red/black (+12v), brown (ground) and green/blue or yellow/blue (goes to CL pump). If you push in or pull out rod that's on top of doorcard, switch inside actuator connects +12v or ground to wire that goes to pump thus opening or closing central locks.
I took these three wires and connected them to button - +12v to pin 1, ground to pin 2 and cl pump wire to pin 4...

so the pump only needs a brief 12V or ground on the wire to start operating the open or close action?