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Master central locking switch, possible?
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Originally posted by ManiacuV6 View PostIf we start guessing I start loosing my patience and YES you connect the relays and switch to the drivers door.
I installed alarm systems on cars like that and I know what I'm saying ....
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Originally posted by djh View Post
Honda CBR 1100XX Blackbird Turbo....undergoing major changes.....
S2 Coupe... bit easier off the line...
'03 ZX12-R daily hack.... lots of nice bolt ons...
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Originally posted by rynaqui View PostPretty sweet install that
Is that factory?Honda CBR 1100XX Blackbird Turbo....undergoing major changes.....
S2 Coupe... bit easier off the line...
'03 ZX12-R daily hack.... lots of nice bolt ons...
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B4 trigger
B5 switch, as below:Honda CBR 1100XX Blackbird Turbo....undergoing major changes.....
S2 Coupe... bit easier off the line...
'03 ZX12-R daily hack.... lots of nice bolt ons...
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I put a picture and I circled the driver's switch that control locking and unlocking.
The basic idea is that on pin number 2 you will have 12V or ground to lock/unlock.YOu have like a feedback : when you change the state the switch will remain in that state.
So I see that 2 small relays won't hurt . Right ?
The picture was taken from s2central.net.Attached FilesAudi S4 2.2T 5 spd 1992 for parts
AUDI A4 1.9TDI daily use
Audi 80 Quattro 2.0 16V (ACE) aka Competition
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Didn't saw this thread earlier
If car has factory central locking, there will be vacuum actuator with three wires in front doors.
It has 3 wires - red/black (+12v), brown (ground) and green/blue or yellow/blue (goes to CL pump). If you push in or pull out rod that's on top of doorcard, switch inside actuator connects +12v or ground to wire that goes to pump thus opening or closing central locks.
I took these three wires and connected them to button - +12v to pin 1, ground to pin 2 and cl pump wire to pin 4
No illumination at the moment because in this case wiring to switch is bit different than wiring to windows switch or oem lock switch. In cars that has this button from factory there's separate wires going from button to CL pump so illumination works. I'll take a look inside button if LED pinout can be altered making illumination to work.
This can also be done using two switch-over relays so we don't loose option to lock and unlock car by pushing or pulling rod, but who uses this feature anyway especially if there's a button for that.
And yes, trigger as well as button (with changed faceplate) is from rear door. You must use button from rear door that has solder type connection instead of plug or take button from C4A6 which is smaller - there's not much space behind button.
Originally posted by johne View Post
However, on my ABY car doing locking the driver's door also arms the factory alarm and I don't know how you'd seperate doing the two.
JohnLast edited by mdz; 17 July 2013, 13:41.
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Originally posted by mdz View Post.... 3 wires - red/black (+12v), brown (ground) and green/blue or yellow/blue (goes to CL pump). If you push in or pull out rod that's on top of doorcard, switch inside actuator connects +12v or ground to wire that goes to pump thus opening or closing central locks.
I took these three wires and connected them to button - +12v to pin 1, ground to pin 2 and cl pump wire to pin 4...
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