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Got both the top and the bottom of the engine turning freely, fitted the second cam wheel and timed everthing up.
Car now wont Run on more than two cylinders, checked timing again and again, even removed the rocker again to check the cam chain timing, and all is well.
Enginge just about runs but takes time to catch and coughs and backfires and not running on all cylinders
Either i have got the timming wrong (but have checked and double checked)
Sorry to butt in, i have been reading your thread with intrest, i am amazed that the dizzy cam gear snapped off. You need to carry out a compression test to eliminate any bent valves.
Lets hope it is ok. after that it can only be a timming issue or bad plugs, leads etc but doubtful.
Have you cleaned out the dizzy cap to ensure there is no tracking?
...Sounds like piston to valve contact. Never come accross the distributor drive cog coming off the cam. Did it shear off or come adrift? If I remember correctly, it's an interference fit.
Never show a fool a half built house.
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...Sounds like piston to valve contact. Never come accross the distributor drive cog coming off the cam. Did it shear off or come adrift? If I remember correctly, it's an interference fit.
The Cam Gear is part if the casting so I am assuming that the gear sheared off.
.
Sorry to butt in, i have been reading your thread with intrest, i am amazed that the dizzy cam gear snapped off. You need to carry out a compression test to eliminate any bent valves.
Lets hope it is ok. after that it can only be a timing issue or bad plugs, leads etc but doubtful.
Have you cleaned out the dizzy cap to ensure there is no tracking?
Darren.
Dizzy cap looks clean, however I do have a new replacement that I will change to be on the safe side.
I fear the same as you - that there Is a possibility if bent valves, a compression test would be the next step as I am sure that this is not a timing issue.
Both will fit. The first one seems to be an ABY head but marketed as ADU with ABY cams The cams are the only difference...
The second one would be more interesting personally, because I've dealt with figvanhingen few times and everything has been very smooth.
Notice that both of those could need an overhaul aswell.. even if the first is told to be overhauled..
Both are interesting if upgrading to direct ignition interests you as both are direct ignition model heads with hall sensor mounting behind the cam wheel.
Better to ask shipping cost beforehand "Wieviel sind die Versandkosten nach Grossbritannien?" or someting and prepare to pay in advance.
2 months later, 3 weeks of hard work, 4 bent valves replaced, 20 stem seals, 20 valves ground in, head and associated gaskets, new head bolts, head studs for intake and exhaust manafold, water pump, crank pully and bolt, cam belt , cam cover, oil breather pipe, plugs, Dissy cap and leads.
New Tie rods, (easier to do when the head is off), new CV boots.
10w60, DOT 5.1, G12Plus, Hydrolic fluids.
New Apexi cone filter, 180 degree stainless steel bend, 100mm cold air feed, sounds brill and DV really whistles, still suffers from some heat soak in traffic though.
Small poblems
1. Tickover slightly high at 1000rpm
2. Cold start up needs a blip or two on the throttle.
3. Temp now always steady at 90 where i am sure that on a good steady run 70 degrees was normal.
4. Fan does not run on after ignition is swiched off.
Anyway glad shes back, best birthday present ever.
2 months later, 3 weeks of hard work, 4 bent valves replaced, 20 stem seals, 20 valves ground in, head and associated gaskets, new head bolts, head studs for intake and exhaust manafold, water pump, crank pully and bolt, cam belt , cam cover, oil breather pipe, plugs, Dissy cap and leads.
New Tie rods, (easier to do when the head is off), new CV boots.
10w60, DOT 5.1, G12Plus, Hydrolic fluids.
New Apexi cone filter, 180 degree stainless steel bend, 100mm cold air feed, sounds brill and DV really whistles, still suffers from some heat soak in traffic though.
Small poblems
1. Tickover slightly high at 1000rpm
2. Cold start up needs a blip or two on the throttle.
3. Temp now always steady at 90 where i am sure that on a good steady run 70 degrees was normal.
4. Fan does not run on after ignition is swiched off.
Anyway glad shes back, best birthday present ever.
Lots of the work I did myself, but had the use of the Mechanics facilities, and he was doing the head/valve work ect.
The biggest part of the labour bill was stripping the car down, after 13 years of dirt and grim, hot and cold,some bolts had to be removed with heat and then tap and dyed
One bold on the exhaust down pipe took 4 hours to remove.
Howerver all are now replaced for new stainless steel bolts nuts washers where applicable so any future mods should be that much easier.
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