Should it stay or should it go????

[Azman]

Right then, I'm having a small problem guys guide me through if you can.

I bought my 7A only 5wks ago of ebay. Seem'd in good nick when I got it and it ran well. AFter the first few days it started to flash the little symbol meaning low coolant/coolant temp too high!!!!

Then it popped the Top Rad hose.

SO!!!!

Changed the hose and the themostat which was rusted into the housing!!!!!!!!

I had a slight flat spot between 2-3000 rpm which seemed to move to anywhere in that range (not there if you gave it a bit though), so changed the diss cap and rotor arm (both knackered)

HEY PRESTO!!!

Everything Ran fantastic for a while, so I put some greased lightning through the fuel system to give it a clean, and way hey got more power back, the system must have been full of C***.

Now I lent the car to the wife as she got a flat in my PT Cruiser (Don't laugh they are very comfy for euro crossing journeys) two days ago, just before that I noticed that the flat spot was coming back and felt like the car was reigning itself back. Kept an eye on the gauges and the oil P is fine not a flicker same for voltage.

After doing a quick check I went to fill up before the pumps got to mad. Sat there for 10 mins and voila the coolant light came back on. Popped the bonnet and looked round no leaks of any sort anywhere.
Got home, let it cool, lost half a litre of coolant somewhere.
Topped up.
Wife took car yesterday.
Lost half a litre somewhere.

ANY guesses???????

Head gasket????????(please no!!!)
Water pump Bo******?????
Pipes are all fine unless they have a pinhole but that would show up wouldn't it???

Any way of telling if it is the Hgasket with the spark plugs?

Finally the Question is SHould it Stay or Should it go.
I obviously can't sell it to someone in this state without taking a major kick in the cost nuts.

Please rescue me. I only want to get it running smooth (without spending lots of money) get it through its MOT and then flog it to upgrade to an S2 with the cash saved in the mean time.

HELP!!

Cheers

Azman

[BRY]

Pressure test the coolant system and see where it comes out.
Get the kit which screws on to the top of the expansion tank and seals it. Then pump the pressure into it, checking everywhere as you do.
Have you changed the expansion tank cap?
If not it may loose pressure / coolant straight from there.
Flat spot- when was the fuel filter done? Check and change if required.

[PeterS]

Azman -

You need to do some "obvious" checking around the car - park in the same place and look underneath the car for the leak - this could be as simple as a loose hose clamp on one of the hoses, to a crack in the plastic radiator flange or crackin the overflow reservoir.

Let the car idle for a while - go to the back by the exhaust, if you detect the sweet smeel of coolant, its going out your exhaust and likely means that its time for head gasket.

Another important place to check is the LOWER radiator hose - if there has been any leak in the hydraulic reservoir lines the pentosin will drip right on top of the lower hose, doing a wonderful job of lubricating it so it can easily pull off the radiator ( ask me how I know)

Also - the overheat warning - some of the 7As (and may also apply to the 3B S2s) have little or no strain relief on the 3 pin Rad connector harness - so after heat cycling over years and the strain on the connector it may develop a high resistance and stop the fan from running.

...Does the radiator fan come on and STAY on? I once overheated and found that not only the connector had charred and melted, the last 6 inches or so of the harness did too. Had to splice in 3 lengths of wire and new spade connectors, and a 80 Amp fuse on the ground (earth) brown lead.

The fan is NOT fused and if it seizes could lead to an underhood fire. This is discussed at http://www.20v.org/engprob.htm#radfan, the only thing I would add is to add a sealed fuse instead of the audi one.

Don't let this go on too long, because the head is aluminum, and even though the I5 is a very robust engine , chronic overheating WILL warp the head.

I've had a 7a coupe for gulp, over 10 years so I have LOTs of experience ;-0

Feel free to PM me if you have any more questions

-Peter

[Jamo]

Is the oil frothy/creamy mate? check the dip stick, if it is head gasket has gone.

[Azman]

Call me stupid but I thought the head was cast not ally.

Oh bugg** looks like it may be an expensive job. I'm going to check the spark plugs in the morn for signs of corrosion/rust and I will have to get the thing pressure tested.

Could the water pump be causing the overheating?

Or should I just get the coolant CO2 checked (let me know if exhaust gasses are getting through)

The exhaust doesn't smell sweet but does have a fuel tinge too it!!

Cheers Guys any more guidance or tips very welcome.

P.S check out my turbonator post. ANy ideas on this????

[martinjs]

When the engine is hot does the heater blow cold air instead of hot?

[PeterS]

Azman: Unless you are driving on the highway, or its very cold out, the car willl overheat if the radiator fan doesnt come on.

If the water pump is failing , you will find that the coolant isnt circulating - ie some hoses will be hot and others cold.

Focus on some basic troubleshooting first.....

[RustyNut]

I have a complete 7A engine up for grabs if it comes to that. Hope you get it sorted all the same.

Cheers

R.

[newsh]

Deff check if the fan is coming on properly. The otter switch may be bad.

Look for a leak under the expansion tank where the small hose connects too, this can crack and leak but not easily visible.

[Azman]

Well todays the day to try to sort it.

The radiator fan does come on when needed and operates properly. The top rad hose gets absolutly bloody boiling to the touch and I have not yet checked the bottom hose for temp (cos the guard is on)

When the engine is hot the blower does blow hot air,

The oil is clear as a bell and was change 3K miles ago.

Everything to me is pointing to the water not circulating or the gasket so today I am replacing the water pump (cheap fix (fingers crossed)). Or at least stripping it down and having a good butchers.

Will be checking the spark plugs to for corrosion too.

Will post a bit later this avo to let you know how it is going and to ask a few more Q's if they arise.

Cheers for the help guys.

[Azman]

Right after looking and having a play I decided not to fit a new water pump (bought one anyway mind) as two of the spark plugs are going green and the rest are white. Although I could only pull four out. Couln't even remove the HT lead from Cylinder 2 (from the front)

Also after talking to a few more people am getting it pressure and CO2 checked (coolant and exhaust) on tuesday which is the earliest I could book it in.

Everything seems to run fine except-

1. Overheats at standstill.
2. Top hose seems to have very high pressure.
3. Bottom/return hose has no/v.little pressure there even after a long hot run.

Any ideas so I can point the stealers in the right direction?

If it is the head please read

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11200

and give me some hints.

Cheers guys.

[mcandmar]

Azman, i had similar problem which turned out to be the metal pipe along the side of the engine block.

At the back of the water pump there is a 2 inch rubber pipe that connects to a long metal pipe that runs along the engine block and into the heater hose i think at the back of the engine? On mine it had rusted through from the inside out where there was a tiny little pin hole in it, would only leak when fully warm and the system was pressurised. Sitting in traffic it slowly drained the coolant and overheated. On the move it was allright but i was still having to top up the water level after each run.

It was hard to find as the pipe isnt easy to see, and the thought of a metal pipe leaking never came to mind :-)

From your last post it sounds like a stuck thermostat

Mark.

[newsh]

When you replaced the thermostat did you mount it the right way up? There's an arrow on the unit which should point upwards.
I have also seen one of these pipes rusted through.

[Azman]

yep thermostat in correct, will have to check that pipe when I get back from my hols.

I am also going to change the pump as they are only cheap things so hey ho, just the work involved.

ANyone know an easy way of changing it?

[s2carlo]

Hi Azman,

As you say returnpipe is low temp / low pressure while the intake pipoe is high temp, high pressure!! How about a blocked radiator?

Seen this on an S4, there temp also roose --> everything checked and changed --> no luck untill the radiotor was swapped. Now all OK.
Turned out the radiotor was internally blocked and the flow through it was to low to properly cool the coolant.

I heared blocking or cloghing could occure over time due to mixing coolants and particles getting loosin in the system!

Good luck, have a test!

Carlo

Right after looking and having a play I decided not to fit a new water pump (bought one anyway mind) as two of the spark plugs are going green and the rest are white. Although I could only pull four out. Couln't even remove the HT lead from Cylinder 2 (from the front)

Also after talking to a few more people am getting it pressure and CO2 checked (coolant and exhaust) on tuesday which is the earliest I could book it in.

Everything seems to run fine except-

1. Overheats at standstill.
2. Top hose seems to have very high pressure.
3. Bottom/return hose has no/v.little pressure there even after a long hot run.

Any ideas so I can point the stealers in the right direction?

If it is the head please read

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11200

and give me some hints.

Cheers guys.