S2 Engine Oil

[audiman]

What do you mean Lee?? I have a dyno cell in my shed with two egines on it, one running 20-50 the other using 5-40


LMAO

[Lee]

I thought you only used chip fat in yours Tom. Isn't that what you Yeovil mechanics recommend? Or do you stretch to that Halfords one that comes in a brown tub for less than £2 a litre?

[4WheelDrifter]

You can put chip fat in your fuel tank Lee.
Your's is a TDi, right?!!

[newsh]

Heehee they dont call him Mazola Man for nothing...

[audiman]

Am I too young to know what that means John???

[dan_b]

So does anyone here use the Mobil 1 stuff?

[Doug_RS2]

I used mobil1 - is it 15W50 ? I needed it after bedding the car in on mineral oil. I got noisey tappets with that stuff when hot. It needed to be up at the max level of oil to stop it. The RS stuff could be between the min and max and not have noisey tappets.

I'm trying the Millers stuff to see how that performs compared to the RS and Mobil. I am only trying it because the RS is a pain to get in 4 litre cans.

[Jay]

I used mobil1 - is it 15W50 ? I needed it after bedding the car in on mineral oil. I got noisey tappets with that stuff when hot. It needed to be up at the max level of oil to stop it. The RS stuff could be between the min and max and not have noisey tappets.

I'm trying the Millers stuff to see how that performs compared to the RS and Mobil. I am only trying it because the RS is a pain to get in 4 litre cans.

They do 5w 40 i think

[Jay]

Spoke to Simon (a colleague at work) - he's built lots of engines in his time for various folk, including Hart - and heaps of Palmer Audi 1.8t lumps (they had a full season of thrashing with no failures whatsoever). He says RS if you like, but Magnatec is fine - and don't waste your time changing oil more often than 6,000 miles unless you like buying oil (which the oil companies like you to do). I've used Magnatec since day one and experienced no problems. Ok, my car only sees fast road thrashing (but that includes 200 mile+ jaunts on very hot days), so maybe opinions will differ here. In fact, opinions will definitely differ here!

__MDC__

If your engines are standard or near to, you dont go near the track and only thrash it once in a whyle 6000 is o.k BUT NOT for 350+ bhp engines that get used as they should!!! 3000 miles is pushing it as I've said before the damage is irreversable- you can't just put better oil in after the turbo or bearings are cooked the horse has bolted!!!!

The best advice I can give is stick to a known oil of the highest quality and change often.

Most engine failures arent the oils fault its the drivers and normaly down to some sort of service issue e.g to many miles, running out of oil/coolant, cam belts or plugs causing other expensive faults. with the oil if that gets cooked its because youve not let the car cool be for switching off (drive slow the last few miles after a FUN run is better than sitting there idling) or something else has failed e.g the cooling system.

Because we dont use extremes of lift on our cams the load carring properties are not exploited. Our problem is blow by (combustion gases passing the rings and fuel wash- extra fuel added as a cooling media on boost))so use a narrow range oil (0w30 -10w 40) as these have less additives to cook or chop, in race engines you can get away with a mono-grade oil with no detergents in but you need to change after each race and let the engine warm before use.

Im sticking with what I know and have proven and will be CASTROL RS

Jay

[Lee]

Agreed: stick with what you know and trust. I'll be sticking with my Millers 10W60 as my bits are still functioning perfectly after massive abuse. I don't cool the car down that much and I thrash it from cold and everything is working like clockwork even on my tweaked high miler. The oil can't be that ****. Changed my rocker cover gasket recently and the head internals looked like new.

[Keeper of The Kitten]

Jay, no problem with that!

Actually, just spoke to Simon again today and he fully agrees that Castrol RS is good stuff particularly if you abuse the car more, and particularly for higher output (that'll be me next year then!) - but he still insists no need to change at less than 6,000 miles - as this is a good oil that can handle the extremes. He's got no axe to grind with oil companies and has no dark reasons for saying this, he's just a humble race engine builder. I'll press him again on the "degrees of thrashing" question to see what he thinks though!!!

__MDC__

[Doug_RS2]

Whilst thrashing mine on track, with Mihnea in the car - he shouted at me to slow down as after a few laps the oil temps were up towards 140 - and climbing - th eoil won't last 6000 miles of that abuse.

I have a big cooler to put on - just need to find the money for the hoses - and then the time to fit it.

[Lee]

Millers CFS 10W60 tolerates 125C constant with excursions to 150C without distress.

[Lee]

I need to fit my oil cooler too. Damn hoses are mega bucks. Guess I will start making my own ones.

[karlblues2]

I need to fit my oil cooler too. Damn hoses are mega bucks. Guess I will start making my own ones.

Hmmm. I am now running Mobil 1 (5W50) and today the oil pressure at idle was around 1 bar when hot!!!!! Is this the oil, or could that indicate another fault???? And where the hell do you fit an oil cooler?
Cheers guys
Karl