Get the top nut off before lifting the engine - if it's knackered, the weight of the engine MAY stop it turning the mount's spindle. I once had two Scotsmen stand on an engine to put extra weight on the mount so I could get the top nut free. A power wire brush on the exposed threads before starting is a good idea. Both Draper and FACOM at least do an offset adapter that lets you get a standard semi-deep socket onto the nut.
Once that's done, support the engine and whip the lower nuts down 5mm or so, then jack the engine up until the mount rattles - then it's safe to remove it. If it's collapsed, you may need to jack the engine more to get the new one in.
I don't have ETKA handy, but there's a bug in the ur-quattro ETKA that might also be in the S2 - the mandatory 6mm spacer for the right mount is listed for the left side of the car with a comment of '(Right)'.
Once that's done, support the engine and whip the lower nuts down 5mm or so, then jack the engine up until the mount rattles - then it's safe to remove it. If it's collapsed, you may need to jack the engine more to get the new one in.
I don't have ETKA handy, but there's a bug in the ur-quattro ETKA that might also be in the S2 - the mandatory 6mm spacer for the right mount is listed for the left side of the car with a comment of '(Right)'.
The main mounting nut and rearmost nut were relatively easy. All I have to do now is crack off one of the oil cooler hard lines to allow me to drop the drivers side mount off and replace. Pass side one is on finger tight. Another hour or two should see these changed....

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