Alright gents,
As some of you may know, I recently had an ABY ECU failure which happened randomly whilst cruising along at around 60mph.
Prior to this occurring I hadn't jump started or used a battery pack booster , battery terminals were tight, and I am still using the OEM alternator with a 150K on it. Voltage regulator seems to do it's thing with around 13.8-13.9v at the alternator ( is this acceptable or should I be getting around 14.4v?), slightly less at the battery but to be expected I guess and never had any battery draining issues. These figures have been taken after the failure with use of a working replacement ECU.
So, from issues others have had with an Over voltage diode (D901) collapsing and going to ground, I removed mine from the ECU for testing which appears to be fine. The act of simply removing it (if it was grounded) should allow the ECU to be powered up again, all be it with no further over voltage protection. However for me there was no difference with the diode removed. It would still blow fuse 27 when the ignition was turned on.
I see others have sent their ECU away for testing, however from the places I have tried so far they don't recognise the ECU part number as one of the ones they can test but will have a look at it anyway with no guarantee of repair. The quotes for a successful repair are silly money, one I tried was £320 plus VAT and another £220 plus VAT. I purchased a replacement ECU for cheaper than this so reluctant to spend that kind of money on a repair considering it's probably a component that costs less than a £1 to replace!!!
With that in mind, what other components of the ECU have been known to fail in the past and how is best to test them?
I'm determined to get to the bottom of this issue and get my old ECU up and running again since it already has the upgraded MAP sensor and R201 mod which I require for my RS2 based software.
Hope you fine gentlemen can assist with this issue, got to be some electronic gurus out there!!
Cheers chaps.
As some of you may know, I recently had an ABY ECU failure which happened randomly whilst cruising along at around 60mph.
Prior to this occurring I hadn't jump started or used a battery pack booster , battery terminals were tight, and I am still using the OEM alternator with a 150K on it. Voltage regulator seems to do it's thing with around 13.8-13.9v at the alternator ( is this acceptable or should I be getting around 14.4v?), slightly less at the battery but to be expected I guess and never had any battery draining issues. These figures have been taken after the failure with use of a working replacement ECU.
So, from issues others have had with an Over voltage diode (D901) collapsing and going to ground, I removed mine from the ECU for testing which appears to be fine. The act of simply removing it (if it was grounded) should allow the ECU to be powered up again, all be it with no further over voltage protection. However for me there was no difference with the diode removed. It would still blow fuse 27 when the ignition was turned on.
I see others have sent their ECU away for testing, however from the places I have tried so far they don't recognise the ECU part number as one of the ones they can test but will have a look at it anyway with no guarantee of repair. The quotes for a successful repair are silly money, one I tried was £320 plus VAT and another £220 plus VAT. I purchased a replacement ECU for cheaper than this so reluctant to spend that kind of money on a repair considering it's probably a component that costs less than a £1 to replace!!!
With that in mind, what other components of the ECU have been known to fail in the past and how is best to test them?
I'm determined to get to the bottom of this issue and get my old ECU up and running again since it already has the upgraded MAP sensor and R201 mod which I require for my RS2 based software.
Hope you fine gentlemen can assist with this issue, got to be some electronic gurus out there!!
Cheers chaps.
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