I started a thread asking for immobiliser advise on a non starting ABY, but fairly sure it isn't the immobiliser now as the advise I recieved was that the car should start for a few seconds and then stop if it was an immobiliser probem.
The initial problem with the car was that it was moved out of the garage under its own steam, but refused to start when it was time for it to go back into the garage a couple of hours later. The battery then went flat after repeated attempts to start the car, and was then connected to a battery charger with a boost function in an attempt to get it going. It has not started since then.
When I got the car to my garage it had no fuel pump activation or spark.
I then did the following...
Fuel pump relay replaced.
All fuses removed, checked, cleaned up and replaced
New spark plugs fitted
Coil wiring loom visually checked
New earth wire from the coil cover to the cylinder head fitted
Timing pin on flywheel checked
Cam timing checked
2 new crankshaft sensors fitted
New camshaft sensor fitted
After a bit of research I found a few posts about dead ECU's and fuse 27 blowing, I bought a 2nd hand ECU which has solved some of the problems, but the car still would not start.
With the 2nd hand ECU fuse 27 stopped blowing, I had fuel pump activation and spark but the fuel injectors were not firing.
The ECU in the car was a 895907551B. I bought a 895907551A which is a non immobiliser model but I had seen a few posts online saying it was compatable.
I then found post regarding fuse 27 blowing due to the ECU getting volt spiked and blowing the D900 and D901 diodes, so I ordered new diodes and got them fitted to the original ECU. This also stopped fuse 27 blowing, fuel pump activation and spark returned, but the fuel injectors stil were not firing.
I have since checked continuity of almost every wire going to the ECU which have all ckecked out ok. I seem to have 12v at all pins that need power and all the earths are all ok too.
The fuel injectors are all within spec at 16ohm and will click if I earth them out with my power probe.
Totally out of ideas now, and am starting to think it must be an ECU problem, but I can't just keep buying ECU's with out knowing if the ones I have are bad.
Anybody have any ideas, or would be willing to test the ECU's by fitting them to their own known running car for me?
Obviously I am not going to sent 2 ECU's to just anybody, it would need to be a long term trusted UK member of this site.
The initial problem with the car was that it was moved out of the garage under its own steam, but refused to start when it was time for it to go back into the garage a couple of hours later. The battery then went flat after repeated attempts to start the car, and was then connected to a battery charger with a boost function in an attempt to get it going. It has not started since then.
When I got the car to my garage it had no fuel pump activation or spark.
I then did the following...
Fuel pump relay replaced.
All fuses removed, checked, cleaned up and replaced
New spark plugs fitted
Coil wiring loom visually checked
New earth wire from the coil cover to the cylinder head fitted
Timing pin on flywheel checked
Cam timing checked
2 new crankshaft sensors fitted
New camshaft sensor fitted
After a bit of research I found a few posts about dead ECU's and fuse 27 blowing, I bought a 2nd hand ECU which has solved some of the problems, but the car still would not start.
With the 2nd hand ECU fuse 27 stopped blowing, I had fuel pump activation and spark but the fuel injectors were not firing.
The ECU in the car was a 895907551B. I bought a 895907551A which is a non immobiliser model but I had seen a few posts online saying it was compatable.
I then found post regarding fuse 27 blowing due to the ECU getting volt spiked and blowing the D900 and D901 diodes, so I ordered new diodes and got them fitted to the original ECU. This also stopped fuse 27 blowing, fuel pump activation and spark returned, but the fuel injectors stil were not firing.
I have since checked continuity of almost every wire going to the ECU which have all ckecked out ok. I seem to have 12v at all pins that need power and all the earths are all ok too.
The fuel injectors are all within spec at 16ohm and will click if I earth them out with my power probe.
Totally out of ideas now, and am starting to think it must be an ECU problem, but I can't just keep buying ECU's with out knowing if the ones I have are bad.
Anybody have any ideas, or would be willing to test the ECU's by fitting them to their own known running car for me?
Obviously I am not going to sent 2 ECU's to just anybody, it would need to be a long term trusted UK member of this site.
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