Intermittent power loss

[K Simmonds]

Just reread everything and looked at that picture again to refresh my memory, I'd definatly want to replace that arm.

And to answer your question regarding removal in the other thread again you could try drilling a hole in the center with a vacuum cleaner hooked up to catch the dust as you don't really want any metal particals getting into the dissy. Then try force threading a bolt into the hole in the arm to break the glue bond, however the material is very brittle so it may well just strip out though it's worth a try. It could also cause the arm to split which would also solve the problem.

And yes, fitting new HT leads to a 3B is very labourious! I can recall doing the ones on my S2, I took a good couple of hours over the job and it's a real fiddle to get them routed nicely.

[newsh]

predding
I've found another MAF here so you’re ok to hang onto that one if you would like.

[predding]

predding
I've found another MAF here so you’re ok to hang onto that one if you would like.

Have sent you a PM John - thanks

[predding]

Just reread everything and looked at that picture again to refresh my memory, I'd definatly want to replace that arm.

And to answer your question regarding removal in the other thread again you could try drilling a hole in the center with a vacuum cleaner hooked up to catch the dust as you don't really want any metal particals getting into the dissy. Then try force threading a bolt into the hole in the arm to break the glue bond, however the material is very brittle so it may well just strip out though it's worth a try. It could also cause the arm to split which would also solve the problem.

And yes, fitting new HT leads to a 3B is very labourious! I can recall doing the ones on my S2, I took a good couple of hours over the job and it's a real fiddle to get them routed nicely.

Thanks v much for the comments; my old Audi Master Tech mate said similar ie drill it to loosen the bond but yr comment to drill at the centre is a good detail. I tend to let things sit and percolate to find a min damage solution. I was trying to think of a U bracket over the arm and then using a puller with the legs under the rotor arm. And on the arm, yes everyone who has seen the picture has said the same, very rewarding to see it like that ie having come this far, have actually found something

I will try and find that diesel breather, if you have any supplier links/suggestions, please advise

VERY glad you said the HT leads is a labour of love, now I know its not just me and my OCD.Cheers

[predding]

Couldn't get a drill in so Plan B, careful application of the Mole grip and gentle tapping with a hammer on its side in parallel direction with the shaft. Rotor arm cracked and gave way in one piece, clean removal and clean shaft head ready to be cleaned and new rotor arm fitted. I also believe that is the 'tuna can' inside the dist body in the photo.