engine won't start, s2 3b 91 mod coupè

[S2central.net]

Guys guys - forget sparks for now...

Q1 - Is the hall sensor producing a signal ?
This can be easily tested with a LED across two pins at the dissy when cranking.

Q2 - Is there a trigger pulse from the crankshaft position sensor (G4) ?
You really need a scope for that one... Reference pin might have sheared off - it happens. When you get a scope on there - check that G40 pulse window wraps the G4 pulse. And when your there check that the rpm sensor G28 is OK... Oh and mkae sure they are connected to the correct plugs.

Q3 - Is the timing belt aligned and tensioned OK ? Actually that should be Q1

If you get this far, then its time to see if the ECU produces low tension trigger pulses that enter the POS unit - part of the coilpack on 3B - if they exist then see if amplified pulses come out of POS unit... Then see if you get HT at the coil...

Checked resistance of coil windings yet ?

Checked the HT lead from coil and rotor arm condition ?

[powercar]

like i said earlier in the thread, i haven't get the chance to check things properly yet, but tomorrow i'll be checking for the problem and use all of the good tips i've recived her in the thread

thanks guys for all the good help so far

it's just wired, it worked just fine until i took a stop and then it just wouldn't start again

[Beetie]

I'm having the same problem with a mate 2.3 10v
Same fault as yours ive tryed a coil (well 2 actually) didnt work.
Changed the fuel pump as that was knackered anyway and thats made no difference, so im thinking that its going to be the hall sensor - Paul how did you say to check it as i dont really want to shell out the money for one from ben when i can check it first!

[powercar]

well, today i have been checking some things out.
there is spark from the coil, and i have been checking the g4 and g28 sensors.
the g4 has about 930 ohms and the g28 has about 858 ohms. these should have aprrox 1000 ohms
have been cheking the fuses to for the fuel pump and some others, forgot to check the relay to the fuel pump at that time.

so, do anyone have any more ideas what it could be? :/

is it possible to check the g40 with a multimeter? don't have a LED for the moment so i'm just wondering if i can test it for ohms maybe?

[S2central.net]

Checking resistance across the sensors does not prove they are working... However, the fact you are getting sparks, proves that there must be signals coming from them when cranking the engine.

Is it a healthy looking strong spark or not - you can *carefully* hold the plugs against engine/earth while cranking the engine to verify sparks are getting there and they look strong.

[S2central.net]

Scope signals

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30947

[S2central.net]

G40 LED blink test - just needs an ordinary LED here - you'll see a pulse every camshaft revolution - half or crank rpm

http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=346176&postcount=11

[powercar]

so i just have to hold the LED against pin 1 and 2 and then it would blink every camshaft revolution?

[Knight Rider S4]

well, today i have been checking some things out.
there is spark from the coil,

Did you check via plug lead or the coil lead to the dizzy?

[powercar]

i checked via the coil lead to the dizzy and not via the plug lead

[Beetie]

I take it paul, that this applies to all il5 engined dizzy's? If so ill be checking tomorrow!

[Knight Rider S4]

i checked via the coil lead to the dizzy and not via the plug lead

Before you do anying else get a plug on one of the leads to ensure the dizzy is transmitting the spark

[powercar]

knight rider s4- i'll do that tomorrow

[powercar]

well, i have just measured the voltage back to the fuelpump and it's 0V!
so, does this mean that it is the fuelpumprelay that is dead?

[newsh]

Did you measure it while cranking?